Archive for the ‘Mac OS X’ Category
I’m looking to convert my iTunes Library from AIFF files to Apple Lossless as I understand there is no loss in Sound Quality and that the Lossless files are roughly 50% smaller. I tried a sample on an album by using “Select All” then Right Clicking on the highlighted areas, then “Convert To Apple Lossless” and this does the job. The only problem is that it leaves the original files in tact (does not delete them) and since I have over 6,000 songs having to manually delete the AIFF files one by one would be a major pain, so is there a way to covert without retaining the AIFF files?
To be honest, iTunes default behavior is a little too cautious. The conversion process is designed to be non-destructive. You may possibly be able to craft an automator script in OSX 10, that would convert a file, then move the original to a different folder that you can toss once the process is completed. That may shave some work time off of the conversion process.
Okay, last night I guess I loaded some shady applicationd onto my 2008 iMac. I restarted it, and when the computer loaded up again, the mouse was frozen in the corner but there was no LED light coming off from the keyboard or mouse. I connected my iPod with the USB cable and it wasn’t charging. I then put in a disk (if I can ever get it out again) to see if the computer was working other than the USB ports, and yes, the computer works otherwise. So I’m assuming that my iMac USB ports are frozen, and I’ve restarted numerous times. No luck. Do you have any advice?
Jacob’s currently wearing many hats here at PowerMax, so I thought that perhaps I may be able to address your question directly.
Since the USB system bus is hardware controlled, it’s unlikely that a piece of software has rendered it inoperable. I’d try first, an alternative mouse. Perhaps borrow one from a friend and see if it lights up. I’d also try bypassing the keyboard, and connecting directly to the iMac, to make sure that the USB port on the keyboard hasn’t failed. Should none of these resolve the issue, I’d recommend having an Apple Hardware specialist take a look at the unit.
Ask Jacob Team
Well, my trusty 2.66GHz MacPro failed two months out of AppleCare warranty. Right before it failed, the screen image developed a very faint herringbone pattern of thin horizontal yellow rectangles which look to be about 1/4″ x 1/16″ rectangles. The computer gets through the chime and through the Apple screen and to the blue screen with mouse pointer in the upper left. The drive is being accessed, but nothing happens on-screen though the cursor does track mouse movements while leaving a fixed mouse pointer at the original position. The yellow pattern is consistent through multiple reboot attempts. I pulled the drive and hooked it up to my Intel Mac mini and it mounts to the desktop and I can see all files in the Finder.
In the past, the video card failed and was replaced under AppleCare. I tried the usual tricks individually with reboot attempts between checks (checked 3v lithium battery, PRAM reset, pulled extra memory, reseated video card, move drive to different bay, disconnected all external devices except keyboard/mouse/DVI. Same result on all counts. Checked for dust build-up on memory and video heatsinks. Not much there. I installed a brand new WD Caviar Black drive and tried to install the OS (Discs supplied with MacPro) on a new drive. It makes it through installation Disc 1 to the RESTART button. When it reboots, I get a grey screen in multiple languages saying to restart. Can’t make it to Disc 2. Tried re-installing with drive in 2nd bay, same thing.
- 2.66GHZ Dual Xeon Macpro 2006-7 unit bought from Power max
- 4GB memory installed (1GB x 4)
- Mac OS 10.5.8
- Monitor: Dell Ultrasharp 24″ using DVI
- Boot Drive: 7200.10 Seagate 750GB
I apologize for the long e-mail. It is frustrating when stuff breaks right out of the warranty period.
I would appreciate any advice on further diagnostics and options for repair.
The symptoms you’re describing do seem to relate to a video card failure. The Kernel Panic on restart may also point to a video card failing to identify correctly. How long ago was the video card replaced? If it was recent enough, it would be worth checking with the repair center that performed the replacement. In some cases, the repair on the video card, has it’s own warranty, and may qualify you for a replacement. I hope this information has been helpful for you.
Our Apple laptop (a Mac OS X, processor 1.67 GHz Power PC G4; memory 1.5 DDR SDRAM) has lost sound and we cannot figure our how to restore it.
Can you help?
With the G4/1.67, there were two different models. One has a standard analog audio port (headphone jack), and one has the Combination Analog/Digital Optical port. It’s possible that the the sensor that detects a headphone connection may be tripped. This would cause the notebook’s speakers to be silent. One way to determine this, is to plug in headphones, and see if you get sound through those. Also, if you go into System Preferences, then to Sound, and check “Output”. It should list which devices are providing sound output. Does it list “Line out/headphones” or internal speakers? Let me know what the results of these are, and we can go to the next step of restoring sound for you.
I reluctantly upgraded from Tiger to Snow Leopard recently and discovered, to my dismay, that my HP 940-C will not print now. I have a Mac Pro which had the original 160 HD with Tiger on it. I installed a 500 GB Western Digital HD drive and cloned the drive as you suggested with Carbon Copy Cloner (thanks by the way!) and installed Snow Leopard on the new drive. After discovering that Snow Leopard didn’t have a fix to make my printer work as it should, I went to system prefs and rebooted from my original drive which has Tiger installed and I was able to print as usual. Is there a fix to make Snow Leopard functional with my older printer? I went to Apple website & downloaded what I thought might be a printer driver solution that still doesn’t work. If there is a simple solution I would appreciate a tech tip.
I checked through Hewlett Packard’s website, and it appears that the driver for that printer has not been updated since march of 2005. Most likely, the correct driver for 10.6 is included in the 10.6 DVD install. I would recommend going to System Preferences, then to Print & Fax, and delete the current printer, and re-add it. When re-adding the printer, check carefully under the driver selection, and see if the 940C driver is listed. if it is, select that driver, or one for “The 940 series”, then perform a test print. If this driver is not listed, it’s possible that it may be on the DVD for Snow Leopard, under “Optional Installs”(does not require reinstallation).
I have a G5 tower (the silver one) with dual 2 gig core. Can I load and partition OS 9.2.3 & 10.4.0 & 10.5.8? Or just OS 9.2.3 & 10.4.0?
The G5 PowerMac, supports OS X up to 10.5.8, with support for Classic (OS 9 virtualized). Partitioning the drive, most likely will just limit your storage options, as that unit will not boot in OS 9. I hope this information has been useful for you.
I recently got gifted !! a Dual G5 1.8 with 2G RAM. It has 10.5.8 on it. Geekbench score of high 1400′s to low 1500′s. I installed 10.4.11 on an external firewire drive. 10.4.11 gets scores of around 1687.
One of the obvious pluses to 10.5.8 is Time Machine. But, that will not work for me as I don’t have any discs big enough to back up to. I end up using rsync to backup stuff like Music to one drive, pictures to another, etc…..
So, my question is this. If I wipe the 10.5.8 I will have no means of going back to it. I like 10.4.11 but it is beginning to seem like more and more software will not work with 10.4.11. Example, Evernote!
What do you think? Get the performance boost that 10.4.11 seems to offer on this machine or stick with 10.5.8 that I do not have an install disc for….
What a nice gift! 10.4.11 has been a really good system, but is beginning to lose some support from newer software. 10.5 shouldn’t be much slower, unless there are underlying issues. How much RAM do you have? Do you have one, or two internal drives? What kinds of software do you plan on using with this G5? These are all questions that must be considered when it comes to performance and compatibility.
I have a 1GHZ dual processor and the new HD I purchased from your company will not boot! I removed the jumper and there are no other drives attached. The machine sold to me is a PATA/8MB cash WD WD2500AAJB 250 GB drive.
I unpacked it and hooked it up with the case open but I can not seem to mount the drive. I used a OSX 10:3 system disk and tried to reformat the disk with the system software but I just can not see the icon-it does not mount. I am ready to return the HD for another one if we can not resolve this issue promptly.
If you have a Mirrored Drive Door G4 PowerMac, all drives in the Mac need to be pinned as “Cable Select.” Also, see if the drive can be viewed in the Finder window as it’s possible in OS X to have drives mounted but not visible on your desktop. That setting is adjustable in the Finder preferences.
If you continue to have problems you can certainly contact your sales person for direct customer support.
I have an iMac G5 running 10.5 and I’m just wondering if I can partition my hard drive and install 10.4 and run OS 9 on the same hard drive for games that requires OS classic 9
You can run the older 10.4 Mac OS on a partition of the drive if that computer originally was capable of running that OS. So if you have version of 10.4 that came with that iMac G5, you can install that on a partition or external hard drive. Then you just need to install Classic OS 9 support and you should be set.
I do this on a few test systems here, and have no problem bouncing from 10.4 to 10.5. Just use the Startup Disk System Preference to change which partition you want the Mac to boot from and restart.
Hope that helps,
I have a Power Mac PC G5 but 10.3.9 and I need an upgrade to 10.5.
It would be nice to find a copy of Leopard but no one has them or it costs an arm and a leg. I love my Mac and just want to upgrade but others have told me to just buy a Mac Mini and have everything I need without purchasing the upgraded software for my machine. What say ye Jacob? What is a person to do?
When 10.6 was released without Power PC Mac support I was recommending that everyone grab 10.5 before it was gone for good. At this point your observation about 10.5 Leopard is correct and the advice to get a Mac Mini is probably good advice.
I have to say that I love may Mac Mini and think it is a good choice for most users looking for a desktop system. We regularly have used Intel Mac minis in stock is you’re interested in keeping costs down.
I recently updated my 2009 Mac Pro quad-core to 10.6.3 and now my second monitor is not visible. It is not even being detected in displays in System Preferences or in More Info in About this Mac. Googling the issue seems to suggest that this is a known issue with 10.6.3.
How can I go back to 10.6.2?
The easiest way to get your Mac Pro back to an older version of the OS is to do an Archive and Install of the Mac OS. Mac OS 10.6 introduced a simplified way of doing this. Now when you chose a basic install of 10.6 on a newer version of the same OS, it will simply downgrade you without asking to to chose Archive and Install.
Before you go that route, you may want to Zap your PRAM by holding down [command] + [option] + [P] and [R] keys on start up. Let the System chime three times before letting go of those keys. You may also want to shutdown the System and then hold in the Power Button until you hear a long tone sound. The computer will restart. If all that fails, Downgrade to 10.6 from your install DVD and then use the 10.6.2 combo updater.
I recently bought a couple of trade-ins from you that are running 10.4 and am trying to install OX 10.5.6. When I put the disc in, it does not open the window for the software install. I go to the hard drive and see the disc, try to click there to open the window and nothing.
I then single click the icon on the desktop, then go to “file” and open from there and still nothing. This happens on both the computers. I reinserted the disk into my iMac 24″ and the window pops up just fine as soon as the disc is inserted. Any thoughts on why the other 2 computers won’t open the update disc?
That will get your Power Macs booted from the installer and allow you to install the OS. Choose the Option to do an Archive and Install, or Erase and Install if you don’t need the data on the drive, and that will insure that you have a clean OS install.
I am trying to decide whether or not if I want to purchase a MacBook but reading up on it makes me change my mind. How do you operate one of these things and is there a book to read upon it?
The MacBook is a fine choice for a entry level Mac laptop, and in general it can do almost all that you would do with desktop Apple computers. If you are new to the Mac OS, and have been using Windows, consider this book – “Switching to the Mac” – as a reference guide.
Apple has also put together some helpful information and videos about Getting a Mac.
If I buy a used PowerPC computer that runs 10.5, how many years can I expect Apple to continue OS support for 10.5 Leopard?
Well Apple makes no promises about support ranges, but if you look at the support of the previous versions of the Mac OS, you should have an idea. Mac OS X 10.4 Tiger was released April 29, 2005. That was over four years ago and Apple still offers support for Tiger, in the way of security updates and some software compatibility.
If you are concerned about third party software support on your Mac, it may be a good idea to get a used Intel-based Mac. Just because an OS supports a processor type, doesn’t mean all software created for that OS will also support that processor.
In general you should have a few years more of support from Apple on that OS, and it will probably be a little longer, due to Leopard being the last OS that will run on PowerPC Macs.
I have a question about iCal.
I have two Mac systems:
1) desktop G5 2.3 GHz PCIe running Tiger 10.4.9
2) MBP 2.53GHz 15.4” (Oct 2008) alumibody running Leopard 10.5.6
How can I sync the calendars between these two system, which are running different versions of OS? I consider the calendar on the desktop G5 under Tiger as the master. Periodically (daily or weekly), I need to update the MBP’s calendar to mirror the G5’s. Is this possible?
I checked the iCal system files on both systems, and the iCal files are located in different places under Leopard and may even be named differently.
Is there a way to manually drag-and-drop various iCal system files from one system to the other? Currently, that is how I backup iCal under Tiger.
Thanks for your time.
Although they look similar, the versions of iCal in 10.5 is very different from the one included with Mac OS X 10.4. If you want to keep them in sync without too much fuss, or annual cost like a MobileMe account, consider upgrading the G5 to Leopard. When you have both computers on 10.5, you can use Google Calendar syncing and constantly keep both your systems updated.
Check out Google’s instructions on enabling Google Calendar with iCal
From the link:
To set up CalDAV support for Google Calendar in Apple’s iCal, follow these steps:
• Open Apple iCal, go to Preferences and then the Accounts tab.
• Click on the + button to add an account.
• Under Account Information, enter your Google Account username and password.
• Under Server Options, add the following URL: https://www.google.com/calendar/dav/YOUREMAIL@DOMAIN.COM/user
Replace ‘firstname.lastname@example.org’ with your Google Account username.
• Click Add.
• Under the Delegation tab, select the calendars you’d like to add to iCal by checking the boxes next to them. You may need to hit refresh to get the latest list of calendars.
• Add your email address to your Address Book card by selecting Add Email. You’ll be prompted to add your email address only if your address is not already in your Address Book.
I have an early 2008 MacBook Pro and a Mac Pro desktop. I upgraded the MacBook Pro to Snow Leopard as soon as it was available last month and then upgraded the desktop to Snow Leopard just a few days ago.
Firefox (3.5.3) is not playing in the sandbox well with either machine. At first it was only the laptop. But the same problem started appearing on the desktop as soon as it was upgraded. The problem is that I’m getting very frequent “Can’t Find Server” messages with Firefox after the upgrade. Both Macs are now running OS X 10.6.1. It is extremely annoying – as you can guess. And I’m too stubborn to change to Safari.
If I open Terminal and use the “dscacheutil –flushcache” command, the problem almost always goes away and the next click connects fine. I have a satellite ISP whose modem is connected to a Time Capsule base set via ethernet. The laptop connection is wireless, and the desktop is connected via ethernet (and Airport is turned on).
Would appreciate any suggestions.
I have not seen that issue on any other Firefox/Snow Leopard computers. It could be an issue with your ISPs DNS server not working well with your Mac OS internal Caching. I would recommend that you change the DNS setting on your Apple router to be a different Domain Name Server (DNS). I sometimes use these servers 188.8.131.52 and 184.108.40.206 for reliable alternative to what I get from my ISP.
Input those two IP addresses in your Bass Station’s DNS field and then save them . Renew your DHCP address on your Macs to get the updated DNS info. Also turn off Airport on your desktop system so it is only looking at one network interface.
I recently purchased a pre-owned Titanium Powerbook from you guys with Mac OS 9.2.2 & OSX 10.3.9 Panther. Somehow while setting up the administrator and password things got a little out of whack.
To make a long story short your help desk informed me that you can only set up a new administrator, namely myself, if you have the original Panther start up disc. I have an original Panther retail start up disc that I purchased for my iMac G4. Can I use this disc to re-install Panther again without erasing OS9.2.2 which I don’t have a disc to re-install? Also, will I have the same amount of free disc space as I did prior to the re-install? I don’t want to have two versions of OSX formatted on the already small 40 G.B. hard drive.
The main purpose for buying this computer was to have a dual-boot machine, so I don’t want to lose my OS9 capabilities.
Thank You in advance,
You should have no problem reinstalling OS X 10.3 over the old 10.3 via an Archive and Install, but you will have to Trash the Previous System folder after you have finished the install. After the folder is removed, you should have about the same amount of free space on your hard drive. OS 9′s System Folder should not be affected by this process.
You may even be able to skip the install and just reset the Admin users password via the Reset Password Utility on the Mac OS Install disc. Jump to the last part of this article to get info on the process:
After you have Admin access to the computer, just make a new Admin user account with the name you want to use and login to it. After you login, delete the old admin account.
I have just started working on my first Mac (a MacBook Pro). I will be using the Mac as a beta test bed for some software we are developing. This software will eventually live on a USB flash drive…maybe 1000 of them…duplicated. So that is my task. I can write a batch file on the PC to copy my PC files to the USB. Simply doubleclick the icon I make and it will run the batch file over and over and over…Copying the files to the USB drive. I need to replicate this “batch file copy” on the new Mac. I have poked around the “AutoMator” but it seems to only pick up mouse movement and clicks, not keystrokes. Plus, I am not sure it will do what I want any way.
So that is my question. How can I automate the copy and paste of the same files to the same location. I will be in charge of creating the initial test batch of flash drives, populated with our program. I will need to do this for possibly up to 1000 flash drives.
Thanks for any insight you can provide,
Automator is a good program for creating workflows but it has its limits. For more advanced work, look at the Applescript program or even bash shell scripts. However I am sure that Automator can do what you want, and I emailed you a test workflow you can save as a mini application. All you need to do is change the “Myapplication” to whatever you will be copying over and change the destination “USB-STICK” to whatever your usb drives will call themselves. Then select Save as from the Automator’s File menu and save it as an application.
This sample is just two elements from the “Actions” list: “Find Finder Items” and “Copy Finder Items.” You can keep stacking different functions as you need them. Keep playing with Automator, it will save you tons of time.
I just wanna know your opinion about HD camcorders & Mac OS compatibility. I’m looking for one but i don’t know if there’s a (best choice for) Mac OS X? The brands of camcorders that I see (are): Sony, Panasonic, (&) Cannon… Please let me know your opinion of compatibility and performance.
Panasonic and Cannon do a great job in producing Mac computer compatible HD camcorders. Take a look at the Canon VIXIA HF11 Camcorder or the VIXIA HG20 60GB HDD Camcorder. Both could be good choices for you.
One thing to consider though, still image cameras are quickly adding HD video capture to their feature set. If you are also interested in picking up a good still camera, one of those hybrid cameras may be your best choice. The Panasonic LUMIX DMC-GH1 was recently announced and it has video people and photographers equally excited.
I’m experiencing intermittent mouse freezes, periodically it just won’t respond, however when I power down and reboot it will work, for a while and sometimes for the whole session. Also the power light goes on and off intermittently. I changed the PRAM battery on 10/10/08 (six weeks ago) and I just reset the PMU switch but I’m still experiencing the same problems. Do you have any suggestions as to what I should try next?
Thank you for your time,
You have started with some good first step by replacing the PRAM battery and resetting the PMU in your Apple computer. You will now need to look at your RAM. If you have multiple sticks of RAM in your G4 iMac you should turn off your computer and remove one RAM stick. Use your computer without that one stick for a while. If it locks up on you again, you should remove another stick of RAM and put the one you pulled first, back in. Start up the computer and use it, each time it locks up, swap out another stick of RAM until you have cycled thorough all the RAM. If it locks up with every RAM configuration then you will need to look at another cause.
The next step would be to do an Archive and install of your Mac OS X. An Archive and install will replace your System folder with a clean copy of the Mac OS while leaving your software and personal files intact. You can do an Archive and install of any OS X install DVD. If the Archive and Install fails to change anything it will most likely need to be taken into an Apple Authorized service center for further diagnostics.
Hope that helps,
I am running system 10.2.8 on my old iMac. I want to install a new program that requires 10.4.8 or earlier. Without going to a huge expense before buying a new Mac, which operating system should I update to.
This is what I have:
– Version 10.2.8
– Memory 256
– Processor 800 MHz
It’s what, 5 years old?
Your current configuration is probably fairly stable, but you would certainly achieve better performance by upgrading to Tiger and upgrading the RAM. Tiger will run on 256MB of RAM but it will perform much better with another 512MB of iMac RAM installed. Adding RAM to a G4 iMac is easy and the best upgrade for that system.
Tracking down a used copy of OS X 10.4 Tiger will be a little more difficult than buying RAM. Tiger is no longer produced, so used versions of that OS sell fast. You may want to call a PowerMax sales person and have them try to track down a copy for you. If you have other Mac friends, then it may be possible that they would give you their unused copies, provided they moved onto Leopard.
Hope that helps,
I purchased a PowerBook G4 from you last April and am very pleased with it. However I now have requirements to upgrade from my current OS X.3.9 to OS X.4. This machine has the 500MHz PowerPC G4 processor and 512 MB SDRAM.
So my specific question is: Will there be any significant problems installing and running the X.4 upgrades available on CD rom from numerous sources for $120 to $140? – or – Will it be better for me to remove the current OS and reinstall a new OS X.4 ($200-$220)?
If you would like to review the specifications of my book, they may be in your company database under my name.
The Mac OS X 10.4 Tiger upgrade path is a decent way to go when upgrading your 10.3 Mac computer. I personally will want a full retail disk around so that I can Archive and Install, without downgrading and then updating again, but it is not essential. Save your money and get a Upgrade OS X CD set, instead of a full version. PowerMax used to sell those but we have long since run out (probably due to our significantly lower prices, compared to what you are listing).
Hope that helps,
You’ve been very helpful in the past, and here I am again.
I’m on a PowerPC G5 running 10.4.11. Most of the time, I’m inside MS Office. I’m just about to upgrade to Office 08.
Is upgrading the OS something I should really do, or is it a “nice to have” (if somewhat pricey)? And if I want to upgrade my desktop and my laptop do I need the bigger, and more expensive package?
I like Leopard for many geeky reasons. It makes it easier to manage my teenager’s computer through Parental Controls. The Leopard Time Machine backup is great data insurance, which gives me peace of mind. The ease of screen sharing makes having a house of Mac computers work cooperatively.
That being said, it is not essential to your overall productivity. It will not change your speed or quality of work, nor will it revolutionize your computer experience. If you want to upgrade, I would recommend doing all your systems together. If you are updating many computers, the Family pack is the best way to go. Apple has its users on the honor system, so you can install the same copy of the single user OS on every Mac you own. However, the OS X Leopard Family Pack is not much more money than the single user version, so it is easy to “do the right thing” when it comes to software licensing.
I don’t know what has happened but for about a month now I’m having major problems. Programs shut off for no reason, including Safari, Firefox, HP software, Word—
I suppose there is a virus but how do I fix it? I have run disk utilities repair & nothing changes. I am also getting messages that say certain images, movies, etc cannot be opened — I have Adobe reader & shockwave-so I need some other software?
It is nearly impossible for a virus to be the cause of your problem, that is why we love Mac computers. It is far more likely that you are suffering from “bit rot” of your system. This term is often used in to describe failing digital media due to age, but it can also be a less accurate way of describing how, over time, a Mac computers operating system will start to corrupt. It is always a good idea to perform regular maintenance on your computer’s OS every few years. Make sure that your Back up plan is working, or if you do not back up, this is a good time to do it. Then you need to dig out your OS X install media and startup your computer off that disc. From the OS X install disc, you are going to do an Archive and Install. That will replace your current Operating System with a new one, but it will leave your personal data intact. Here is a link to Apple’s instructions on Archive and Installing the Mac OS.
After the Archive and Install, run Software update to get your system back to the most recent OS version possible and reinstall your non-Apple applications. This will replace the failing files causing these problems and it should also improve the performance of your Mac.
Looking for information on a Motherboard for a Quicksilver Dual 1.0 GHz. The Quicksilver turns off (almost) every time I ask it to restart. I hear the chimes, and then it just clicks off. Also, same computer will not allow me to install Mac OS 10.5. Any idea why?
I am not sure your Quicksilver problems are entirely related to the Apple computer Logic board. It could also be a power-supply issue or a PMU/PRAM battery issue. Check out Apple’s info on resetting the PMU and also remove the PRAM battery and check its voltage. It must be 3.6 Volts or higher.
Another possible cause could be a faulty power button on the front of Apple computers or the display. Try using a different display on the computer and test whether it happens again.
Installing Leopard onto a 1 GHz DP Quicksilver should be an easy process as long as you also have 9 GB of available drive space and at least 512MB of RAM. Make sure you are using a black-labeled version of Leopard. Gray labeled versions will only work on the specific model of Macs it shipped with.
You do not have to upgrade your MacBook Pro to use Leopard, but now would be a good time. The new Unibody MacBook Pros are, hands down, the best-designed Apple Laptops I have ever seen. If you can afford it, then save your Leopard upgrade money and put it towards the new MacBook Pro. You will fall in love even before you turn it on; I did.
I have a new Mac Pro running Mac OS X Version 10.5 and an old PowerMac G4. I work at a hospital and our IS guys know nothing about Macs. I have waited from Dec. 07 (when I got the new Mac) until now for our IS guys to get all of the software I need. Back in January I copied all of the info from the old Mac to the new one. That was when I realized that I needed a new set of software for the new Mac (b/c it just made copies of the software and they won’t work without the new Mac linked to the old one). I was wondering if there is any way I can reformat the hard drive of the new Mac and have it back to the settings that it had when I got it from Apple? Instead of copying the entire old Mac to the new one, I’ve decided to just move my job folders and install all of the new, updated software to the new one.
There is an easy way to get your Mac back to a “Factory Fresh” install of OS X. A set of Install / Restore DVDs is shipped with all modern new Macs, and are most often grey in color. Look through the box the mouse came in to find the discs. Insert the disc and restart the computer holding down the [C] key. When you boot up of the DVD you will pick your language. Then, from the Utilities menu, select Disk Utility. In there select your hard drive and use the Erase tab to wipe the drive clean. After you are done, close Disk Utility and continue with the installation from that disk. After you have finished installing, the computer will reboot, taking you back to the original “new Mac” screen.
How do I know whether a Macbook Pro has Leopard installed?
If you’re referring to before purchasing, on every Powermax.com New Mac product page there is an info box listing: Features, Detailed Specs, Rebates, Related Items, and Recommendations. The “Detailed Specs” section contains useful information about the system, including the Installed OS.
On Pre-Owned Mac systems the Operating system installed is part of the main description, right above the price.
If you mean on your computer itself, simply go to “About this Mac” in the upper left hand corner (under the Apple logo). There, it will tell you a little bit about your Mac (more if you select “More Info”), including what version of OS you’re running. Leopard is OS 10.5 (often following by another digit indicating what update has been run on Leopard, for instance, 10.5.5 is of course more up-to-date than 10.5.4), so if you are showing 10.5.x, you have Leopard.
I have a G4 tower that was running OS 9.0.4 and working well. I wanted to upgrade to Tiger and was not aware until after I installed Tiger that it is necessary to install OS 9.1, 9.2.1 and 9.2.2 before doing so.
If I uninstall Tiger and then install these intermediate OS versions, I can then reinstall Tiger and expect things to work, right? So, my question is; how can I uninstall Tiger?
There is no way to uninstall a Mac OS. In most cases you can do an Archive and install of the older OS. This is an install option when booted off the Install Disc and it will move the previous OS to an archive and install a fresh operating system.
To go back to OS 9, you may have to format/erase the drive first. If you do not have personally-created info on the drive, than there is not problem. If you have documents you want to save you should back them up to a CD or other storage device before formatting the drive.
I have a G4 quicksilver 733 with 10.2.8 that I bought from PowerMax. It only has the built in Ethernet and no PCI card. It will not connect to the Internet no matter what I do. There are no components anywhere in the networking setup. I’ve downloaded every patch, driver and update from Apple and none have helped. If I boot up in 9 I can get on line. I would upgrade to a newer version of OS 10, but I’m using a protocols 001 and don’t know how much I can upgrade and have the software still work. Can you help?
Some DSL accounts require you to use special PPPoE settings to activate the DSL Modem’s connection to your ISP. With a PPPoE connection you have to enter in a user name and password into your Network System Preferences. Here are Apple’s instructions on adding your PPPoE settings.
I’m wanting a new iMac. I’ve about decided the new G5 will do for me. I want a faster processor with greater bus speed, more memory, and USB 2.0 ports. I’m also ready to go to a 20″ screen. I also want a good internet experience, which I have not been getting lately. I don’t think I’m ready for Leopard and glossy screen, although the new iMacs video in and out options sound intriguing, as does the ability to use a second monitor to expand the desktop. The Apple MAO64LL/A, 2.1 GHz PowerPC 970fx iSight 20″ is the one I have tentatively decided on, running Tiger. (I understand that I could later install Leopard.) I can’t make a good final decision until I get a few issues addressed.
I have an 800 MHz PowerPC G4 iMac with 17″ screen and a partitioned hard drive. I have installed Panther OS 10.3 and Mac OS 9.2.2. The Mac is dual-booting. That is, all my Mac system software must be on the same partition. When i want to switch to the other OS, I go to Startup Disk and select an operating system to start up in, then Restart the Mac. I use PageMaker and MacWrite Pro, and SuperPaint. All of these work great in Classic, while I am still booted up in OS X.
BUT I have not been able to PRINT any of their documents without actually booting up in OS 9.
New Epson printers do not support OS 9 at all. My printer is a refurbished Epson CX 6600, which Epson no longer supports and refused to repair. I did find a local authorized repair shop, and I feel like the printer is on borrowed time. When I try to print an OS 9 document while running in Classic mode, it acts like it will print OK. It spools the document, then gives an alert “Printer is not responding. Make sure it is online and ready to print.” I look at the Chooser. It allows me to select the printer, but it never offers a printer port in the box on the right side of the window.
This printing issue is troublesome. I have a fear that Tiger will behave the same as Panther. Is my best option to keep two computers, or will I be able to Print from Tiger in Classic mode? You have made some comments about HP printers. I’ve never used them, except a little Deskjet C30 that I borrowed one time. It ran like a charm, printing OS 9 without hesitation. Would an HP offer me some solution?
P.S. Do you know of any good substitutes for Hoyt Mah Jongg Tiles and Eric’s Solitaire? I’m addicted to both.
Printing in Classic has many problems because it is an emulated environment, but not in a traditional way. There is a good chance this will not work and also any new printer you buy may not have OS 9 print drivers; even HP, which are still great printers. In those situations you have another option. Open Chooser from the Classic Apple Menu. If you do not see the rainbow-colored Classic Apple menu, just start an OS 9 application and it will appear. In the left side of the Chooser window double click on LaserWriter 8 and close the window. Now when you go to print from your OS 9 applications you will get the LaserWriter 8 Print screen. Change the Destination pulldown menu to “File” and then the Format pulldown menu to “EPS Mac Standard Preview.” Click on the Save button and save the EPS file to your desktop. The Preview application that is included in OS X will open that EPS and let you print it from there. It is an extra step but works with 90% of the hard Classic printing jobs I encounter.
Hope that helps. In regards to the game recommendations, a desire for continued employment has kept me from discovering such things. I have know many people who have Dashboard Widgets that will give you your Mac mini-game fix. http://www.apple.com/downloads/dashboard/
About a month ago, I imported images from my Sandisk Extreme III CF Card to my G-tech external hard drive.
Now that I have time to look through the photos, I went back into the folder on my drive and only 10 of 200 images are available. The other 190 show up as files (“cmd-i” even shows some metadata, but Zero KB size.) but I cannot open the files to view the image. When clicking the image file, I get a Mac warning that the file cannot be opened.
What happened here? Is it the CF card, the drive, the card reader…I am a photographer and my stomach is turning just thinking if this was to happen to images for a client.
Is there any hope for me Jacob, or should I close shop now and form a new relationship with disposable cameras?
This problem has all the tell-tale signs of an interrupted copy.
Sometimes in the process moving files, the device connection is broken or interfered with, and only filenames are imported as empty placeholders. Whenever you move files from one source to another, double-check that all the files are accessible at the new location.
Using photo management software, and not the Finder, to move the files is probably your safest method for this kind of work. That is the value of Apple’s Aperture and even iPhoto. The simple act of organizing the photos gives you validation that the pictures are intact.
It sounds like investing in some photo management software might keep you from jeopardizing your client projects.
I own a MacBook 2.16 Duo Core. My problem is that I have forgotten my Admin Password. I also have Firmware protection activated. I have tried everything that I know to gain access, only find disappointment. Is there anything that I can do which would allow me to regain access? Or would I have to send it to Apple for repair? Thanks you thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated.
When is comes to misplaced Admin Passwords, there are some steps outlined on
Lost Firmware Password
If the Firmware password is lost, follow these steps. This procedure works on both PowerPC and Intel-based Macintosh computers.
Important: ESD Precautions – To avoid damaging components, be sure to follow Electrostatic Discharge (ESD)-safe repair practices.
- Shut down the computer.
- Gain access to the computer’s RAM slots.
(Detailed instructions by product are available from the CIP page)
- Add or remove a RAM DIMM to change the total amount of installed RAM.
For example: If the computer has two RAM DIMMs (128 MB DIMM and 64 MB DIMM) for a total of 192 MB of memory, remove the 64 MB DIMM. This changes the total memory of the computer to 128 MB RAM. If the computer has a single RAM DIMM, you can change the total memory by adding a DIMM of any compatible size.
Note: Removing a computer’s only DIMM is not an option and will prevent the computer from starting up.
- Turn on the computer and immediately reset PRAM by holding the Command-Option-P-R key combination. Press the keys until you’ve heard two successive startup sounds.
- Open Firmware password protection is now disabled. Shut down the computer and return it to its original RAM configuration.
Then use the Password reset utility when booted from the OS X install DVD and reset your admin password.
My new Intel iMac 24″ 2.8 GHz is maxed out with RAM (4 GB), yet apps launched from the dock right after I boot up all launch like “molasses in January” with the spinning rainbow beach ball. Then, after a few minutes, the same apps (Office 2008, and Safari, etc., for example) begin noticeably launching a little quicker, but still aren’t as snappy on launch as they were when the iMac was new and before I installed Leopard and Office 2008. What should I suspect as the culprit for these longer launch times especially right after booting up?
There can be a few things at the root of a slow loading applications problem, some of which may be more difficult to hunt down than it’s worth.
First, you should examine the hidden applications that start up behind the scenes of the Mac OS. Start in the “Accounts” System Preference, and look in your user account’s “Login Items.” Make note of what they are and try removing them one at a time. Restart each time after you delete one item. If the problem persists, use Activity Monitor in the Utilities folder to examine all the processes running after you first start up. Look for processor or hard drive hungry applications.
You can also try booting up in Safe Mode by holding down the Shift key on startup. If applications launch fast in Safe Mode, then it is probably a non-Apple software conflict. Finally, the most thorough way to fully resolve this kind of issue by doing an Archive and Install of OS X. This should replace all the system software, without harming your user info and applications.
I have an iMac (OS X 10.4.7).
Repeatedly, they send information about updates to my system and the opportunity to download. However, when I attempt to download, I am asked for my password. I have completely forgotten what it and my user name are. The suggestion is given that I re-use the start-up disk and establish new user name/password. But, lo and behold, when I attempt to do that, I am asked to first give my original password (which is the one I forgot) before I can set up a new one. HELP, Jacob!!
The solution is easier than they make it seem.
With the disc in the drive, restart the iMac and hold down the “C” during the start up of the computer. That tells your Mac to boot up off any bootable disc in the CD drive. After you get to the installer, one of the menu items along the top will contain the reset password utility.
My wife has a Mac mini. This is strange. When she’s on her “user” side, the colors of everything are inverted, wrong, screwed up. However, the user account that my son logs into is fine. I can’t figure this out. Any ideas?
It is possible that one of the Mac Mini assisted settings in OS X was turned on. There is an option to invert the color of the screen to help people with visual difficulties. When logged into her account, you need to go to System Preference and select Universal Access. Look in the Display section and make sure that “Black on White” is selected.
I recently installed the iStat widget on my Intel Mac Pro (2×2.66GHz dual core Intel Xeon with 3 GB RAM, running 10.4.11. It has the NVIDIA GeForce 7300 GT graphics card). I was surprised to find that the “Northbridge temp” normally is at 150°F which seems hot to me. The CPUs are at 80°F or so. This is when the ambient is about 65°F. Do you know what the optimal operating temp ranges should be for these?
The Northbridge chip is under the black heatsink in your PCI-e compartment of the Mac Pro. It is common for that chip to have readings up to 83°C or 182°F. Some people have taken to replacing the Northbridge heatsink in their Mac Pros to get things cooler, but I would not advise it unless you start to see temperatures above 170°F.
I have a few disk images (.dmg) which I have password protected to protect sensitive information. After working OK for a couple of years, one of my .dmg’s has suddenly stopped requiring a password to open it, while my other .dmg’s remain as they were i.e., still require passwords to open. I have my Macs connected via a home Wi-Fi network as well as synced by .Mac. The peculiar thing is that the .dmg that has suddenly lost the need for a password has done it on both my Macs.
I have rebooted both machines but the problem persists. Any ideas?
This is often caused by an inadvertent selection of the “remember Password in Keychain option.” Also .Mac supports Keychain syncing, so if you had one computer’s Keychain remember the password, both computers will have the same info. The fix should be simple. Go to the application “Keychain Access” in your Utilities folder. Search for your disk image’s name or just browse through the “All Items” category. After you find your password for the disk image, select it and then delete it. You will then be prompted for the password again when mounting the disk image. You may have to repeat this process on all your computers to avoid the password being recovered from .Mac syncing.
I have been needing an interior hard drive for some time. This one was almost full, and I have been deleting images and files constantly to keep the drive less than full. A friend was going to help me install a larger one, but I am still waiting. So, today, I received a software update and when the computer restarted, that fan came on and the apple came up but then all froze. So, what do I do now? I can’t install the hardware test DVD as it will not open the DVD door. Can you help me? Or suggest what I should do?
You can access the eject function two ways in this situation; boot up holding down the Option key and then use the eject key to eject the drive when you get the boot loader screen. Also, you can hold down the mouse button on startup, that will force the CD to eject. After that, you will have to use Disk Utility to repair the drive or do an Archive and install of the Mac OS.
Apologies for this bothersome question- all Finder windows are closed and yet a window from an external firewire minimized there won’t open or be tossed out as with other items I steadily remove from the dock. How can I get rid of the unwanted minimized window in the dock? Unmount the drive? Thank You in advance for your time.
800mhz flat panel iMac 10.4.11 Tiger
There is a little command you can type into the Terminal that will restart your dock. Anything that is minimized on it will be kicked off. First, open the Terminal application, it is in your Utilities folder that is in the Applications folder. When Terminal is open, type this text: “killall Dock” without the quotation marks. Press the return key and your Dock should disappear for a moment. When it comes back up you should have nothing on it except saved shortcuts, the trash, and applications.
Someone recently gave me a G3 desktop and a Power PC desktop.
These machines are old but still working.
I don`t want to toss them out if something can be done with them… the 7300/2000 seems to be running the best (faster) it has 385 mb of memory installed; how much could I max the RAM out to? And will the RAM from the G3 fit ?
I have fond memories of both beige systems. In theory, the G3 Desktop should be faster than the 7300/200 Power Mac. It’s possible that the 7300 had a processor upgrade over the years. That could easily make it faster than an un-upgraded G3 Desktop. Look at the System Profiler under the Apple menu to see what processor speed you have.
The 7300 could support 1GB of RAM via 8 128MB chips. It is probably OK to aim instead for 512MB via 8 64MB chips.
This RAM for the 7300 is different than the RAM in the G3 Desktop. The beige G3 Power Macs used PC66 SDRAM and would only support 768MB total RAM via 3 256MB chips.
What do I need to do to be ready for my new operating system? Should everything be backed up? Will my dual G5 need any tweaking?
The Leopard upgrade is often smooth, having done it on a dozen or so systems myself I can attest to that. I would, however, recommend that you buy an external drive and clone your system onto it. Use carbon Copy Cloner to make your clone.
After you have a good clone of your computer’s hard drive, you can then upgrade your system to Leopard. If you encounter any problems, format the internal hard drive and install Leopard on the empty drive. Then use the Migration Assistant -which runs when you first start up Leopard- to pull the data from the cloned system you made on the external drive. Once you have everything running smoothly, you can format that external drive and turn it into your Time Machine drive.
Hope that helps… and you are going to love Leopard.
Have been unable to find an answer to this one.
Originally when I double clicked my hard drive icon and then clicked on the triangle next to the Applications folder I got a complete alphabetical list of all my applications. Suddenly this is not happening. Now, when I double click the Hard Drive icon and then the triangle on the Applications folder I get a list of about 1/4 of the applications list.
If I double click the Applications icon on a Finder window I get the complete list. NONE of the applications is actually missing, only the list that is supposed to appear when I click on the arrow to display them.
I set up a new “Standard” account and tried the same thing when I signed in under it. The results are the same. Suggestions please.
Missing items from the list view when those items are still on your computer is a strange problem. I have seen the Mac OS fail to draw all items in a list but that will always leave a big white space where the items are supposed to be. That problem is often fixed by using the scroll-bar on the right to move the blank space in and out of view. You may have to shrink the window so that only a portion of the list is visible. Then you can scroll up and down.
It sounds like you are having a different problem than what I have described above. In your case I would expect that it could be a file permissions problem. To fix file permissions go to Disk Utility in your Utilities folder. Select your hard drive and then click on the Repair Disk Permissions button under the First Aid tab. After it is done running, restart your Mac and see if you still have the same problems.
After that, if some items are still missing, make sure that you have not inadvertently moved your missing applications to a folder inside the Applications folder. I have seen some cases were half the applications were in the Office 2004 folder and a turned down triangle in one view would show everything but in another window the folder was not expanded to show everything.
The system requirements for processor speed for Leopard are stated by Apple to be 867 MHz or faster G4 or better.Will Leopard not load on my 450 MHz G4, or will Leopard simply run at less that optimum speeds?I am currently operating very comfortably with OS 10.4.10, 1.75 GB RAM, and 440 GB total internal hard drive storage.I can’t find anything on the Mac OSX website to answer this.
The short answer is “no,” you have to have a G4 867 GHz processor or higher Mac to install Leopard. However, I don’t like the “short answers,” so I’ve been playing the Mac OS Limbo: “How low can you go?”The result of my Caribbean Mac dance was that anything with a G3 chip in it fell flat on its back; you will have to have a G4 chip. I have tested it on most generations of G4 PowerBooks and Power Macs. In nearly all the attempts, a Leopard drive will boot up G4 Macs, 400MHz or higher.So you may be asking why the short answer was “no.” Just because the Leopard OS works on all G4s, it does not mean that it will work well on all G4 Macs. Apple didn’t want to give anyone the possibility of having a bad Leopard experience. So Apple blocked the install DVD from running the installer on a computer under the 867 MHz cut-off. The solution is to run the installer from a PowerPC G4 that does meet the basic requirements of the Leopard installer, but set the destination to be the hard drive of your unsupported Mac. Boot your destination (sub 867MHz) Mac in Target disk mode by holding down the “T” key on startup. Now connect the destination computer to your installer Mac (PowerPC G4 867MHZ or higher) with a FireWire cable. Now boot up your installer Mac off the Leopard DVD and start moving through the install screens. When you get to the point of selecting a place to install onto, select the destination Mac’s hard drive. It will look like a FireWire hard drive.After the install is done, you can power down everything and remove the FireWire cable. Turn both computers on again and you should have a sub-867MHz G4 Leopard computer. This process only works if you have access to a second PowerPC Mac that Leopard will install onto. Intel Macs will not work for this kind of install. Also your performance will not be great. The best low-end install of Leopard I had was on 533MHz and higher G4 Macs. Be prepared to reinstall Tiger if you hate the performance of Leopard on your sub-867MHz G4 Mac.
I’m in the market for a laptop on which to create documents in Microsoft Word. I purchased Word for Mac several years ago when Microsoft still made a version for Mac. I still have Microsoft’s installation CD and its upgrade for Mac OSX. Do you think the software will install on a new or refurbished MacBook? Thanks, Jim
Versions of Microsoft Office for OS X will work well on a new MacBook, but you may have a problem installing it. If the upgrade CD you have requires the OS 9 version of MS Word or MS Office to be installed before it lets you upgrade it, then you are going to have a problem. Older OS 9 programs will not install onto an Intel Mac like the MacBook. However, you have a easy way of moving over your OS X applications and files. Included on all 10.4 and higher Macs is a utility that will import your data from your old Mac. This will work as long as you have a 6-Pin to 6-Pin Firewire cable, and a Mac with a factory original FireWire port (except the B&W G3 tower). When you start up your new Mac it will walk you through connecting both computers and it will move all your files to the proper place. This same process can also bring over applications, if you instruct it to. It is called the Migration Assistant, and although it runs the first time you start the computer, it can also be used at any time; it’s found in your new Mac’s Utilities folder.
Also of note is that Microsoft still makes Word and the other Office suite of programs for the Mac. Microsoft Word 2008 is due to come out in a few months but if you buy a current version now, you can update for just $10 when the 2008 version is available with the Microsoft Office 2008 Guarantee form.
I have a new backup drive. It came with FAT32.What are the pros and cons of switching it to Apple Journaled?
Most external hard drives will come formatted as a FAT32 drive. They do this because it is a drive format that will be readable by Macs, Windows PCs, and Linux PCs. If you share the drive between any two of those operating systems, I would suggest that you keep it formatted as a FAT32 drive. However, if you are only using that drive with a Mac OS computer, then reformatting it as a HFS+ Journaled (AKA Mac OS Extended Journaled) is the best thing to do. FAT32 is an old drive format with size limits and other issues that will make it less usable in OS X. HFS+ Journaled drives support large sizes and more efficient use of storage space. Also it has features that protect against data loss due to accidental drive removal, or any write failure. That feature alone makes it a useful format for a removable drive.
I think a reformat is a good idea, I hope that helps.
I am looking for a way to lock a folder on my computer (all my financials etc.) with others in the house. I would rather not log in and out of my computer to do this. Any thoughts?Willing to buy additional software that would make it easy. In the Mac OS you can lock the file, but that is only so you cannot throw it away.
Folder level security is a frequently requested feature. Although there are third party utilities that help you do this, OS X will provide you with free tools that will work for you. If you are looking for a low security way to drop files into a lockbox folder, you can do that with Folder Permissions. Create a folder and click on it once to highlight it. Then Hold down the Command key and “I” key to get the “Info” window. Go to the Permissions section and change all the popup menus to “Write only (Drop-Box).” You may have to unlock the permissions popup menus by clicking on the little padlock icon and entering the Admin password. The folder method is flawed. First, to open the folder you have to change the permissions to Read-Write before you can use it and then change it back when you are done. Second, anyone with the Admin password for your Mac can unlock the folder. So the security is light, and the use is kludgy (can you tell I do not like it?).The best way of securing files on your hard drive is not with a folder, but an encrypted disk image. Open Disk Utility from the Utilities folder, it’s found inside the Applications folder. In Disk Utility, go to the File menu and down to the “New” submenu. There select “New Blank Image.” Give it a name and select the place to save it. Now you will need to set a volume size. This will take some thought because you can’t change the size later. Additionally, the image will use the same amount of hard drive space whether empty or full; so don’t make it too large. The last change to make here is to set the Encryption popup menu to “128-bit AES” encryption. Click the create button and you will soon be prompted to enter a Password. Make it a good password but know there is no way to open it without the password, so you can’t forget it. The last thing to do is uncheck the “Remember Password in Keychain” checkbox. It could take a long time to create the image, depending on how large you made it.When using this disk image, make sure that the password is never remembered in the Keychain. There will often be a checkbox when entering your password, just don’t mark the checkbox. Otherwise, everyone will be able to mount the disk image without the password. Now all you have to do to work with the secret files is double-click on the disk image and enter your password. When you are done, just eject the mounted disk. It is a simple and rock-solid security solution.
I have recently gotten an issue anytime I start a browser on my iMac running OS 10.2.2) whether it is Explorer, Netscape or Safari. I get the message “The application has unexpectedly quit” and it has. What is causing this and how do you recommend I correct it?
Because your problem happens to many different applications, I think it is a bigger problem than a faulty application. Any time you have a widespread problem like this one, and you have not updated to the most recent point version of the OS, I would recommend running Software Update to bring your OS to the latest version. If the problem continues past upgrading to Mac OS X 10.2.8, then I would create a second user account with which to test. Make the user account an Administrator account, and then log out of your main account. Next, log into your new test account and see if you get the same problems. If you do not have the same problems, then it is some setting in your main User account’s preferences. Go through your main account’s Preferences folder in the user’s Library folder and remove anything having to do with networking or Internet connectivity. Keep testing as you remove each item.
If the problem occurs in both accounts, then it is probably a system problem. Upgrading to OS 10.3 or 10.4 via an “Archive and Install” will often help resolve those issues. You can also do an Archive and Install in OS 10.2, if you have the system discs. Here is a link to Archive and Install instructions and further info.
I have 12 blue and white G3 towers. My question is will they accept and operate correctly if I change the operating system to OSX 10.4.9? I heard that there were two editions of the G3 towers and that to use 10.4.9 the G3 version needed is the G3 rev 2 version. Is it possible you know about this and could verify the Rev2 is required for proper operation.
I had not heard about any OS limitations with the B&W G3s, so I went back to the service benches and tested it out. I used a Rev A 350MHz G3 B&W with 256MB of RAM. I installed a fresh version of OS X 10.4.3 onto the drive and then updated to 10.4.10, in addition to all the other available security updates. It runs fine, albeit a little slow. I watched some YouTube videos and other activities without errors or problems. I think you should be safe updating your computers to 10.4.10. The one limiting item of a Rev A B&W is its drive size. It will not work well with a PATA (ATA/EIDE) hard drive bigger than 6GB connected to the internal drive cable. Perhaps the people you spoke to had upgraded to larger drives, and are experiencing problems unrelated to 10.4.9. If you need a bigger drive in a Rev A B&W G3, it is recommended that you use a PCI-based hard drive controller card.
We have multiple users on our home computer, and one has used Mail for allemail. Now she has set up a separate user account in OS 10.3.9, and we don’tknow how to access her email account. When we open Mail, it gives us awindow to set up an account.
How do we get access to her account?
Sharing email with two user accounts is similar to sharing email between two computers. There is an assumption that each user will have their own email account, and Apple does not have a sharable mail section in Mac OS. It is possible that both of you can share the same email account in different user accounts if your email provider lets you have IMAP access to your email. An IMAP email account stores your mail on a server, not your computer. Because the mail is always saved on the server it does not matter which computer you use or which user account you are logged into. As long as you have the connection info, you will have all your email accessible and everything will stay synchronized between computers and accounts.
Unfortunately many ISPs will only give you POP mail access, and that is much harder to manage from multiple accounts. It may be easier to get a separate email account for her to use. For instance, a Gmail account would work well and it can be used with the Apple Mail application. If she wants the mail that is already on the other user account, then you just need to copy one folder and one file to the new user account. Here’s the procedure:
From your older account, copy the Mail folder to the Shared folder in the Users folder, located here: Macintosh HD/Users/YOUR_USER_NAME/Library/Mail.
Now copy the preference file here: Macintosh HD/Users/YOUR_USER_NAME/Library/Preferences/com.apple.mail.plist.
Next, log into the new account and move the files you copied to the Shared folder. Place them into the same places you copied them from, but with “YOUR_USER_NAME” being the new user account.
After all that, your two mail accounts will be identical, but that will change as soon as one of them checks for new mail. You will have to disable one of the accounts from within Apple Mail’s Preferences.
I hope that helps.
How do I use keyboard to access Apple (Blue top left) ; or FILE ; EDIT : etc.Then how to select an item on the drop down list ?
If these things are in a tutorial supplied with OS X, I did not find them.Any place on WEB?
Tried three OS X books from local library,no discussion of keyboard control like these items.
I think I understand what you want to do. Like you, I do not like to take my hands off the keyboard to grab the mouse. Apple understands that not everyone wants to use, or can use, a mouse. There is of course a way to get to all of the menu items from the keyboard. The first thing to do is let the Mac OS know you want to use one of the menus along the top of the screen. You do this by pressing the “Control” and “F2″ keys at the same time. The blue Apple menu will turn white with a blue box around it. Now you can use the Arrow keys to navigate the menus. The right and left Arrow keys will move you from menu to menu. The up and down Arrow keys will let you highlight menu items. The “return” key will select (click on) the highlighted menu item.
You can use a similar method for the Dock but use “Control” and “F3″ keys to jump to the Dock. All the useful keyboard navigation shortcuts can be found by searching Mac Help for “Full keyboard navigation keyboard shortcuts.”
I have an Apple iBook G3 clamshell with OS 10.1 operating system. The problem I’m having is that I can’t seem to get past the login screen- it goes to the screen where it asks you to choose a user. User2 works fine but when I try to log in to user 1 it asks for me to type in the password. Then after I type in the password it says logging in as usual but it just stays there forever. I’ve left it on for a hour and a half and it still was at the same screen, I don’t know what the problem can be, the only thing I can think of is like the day before I had to power down with the power button instead of shutting it down and I had a few programs running, any help would be nice.
Well it helps that you have two user accounts and one of them works. My guess is that one of your preferences became corrupted when you forced your iBook to shut down. If your other account is also an Admin user, then you should be able to login to the working account and edit items in the broken one. You should remove the “Library” folder from the broken account and place it in the shared folder for safekeeping. Then log out of your working account and try logging into your broken account. Without a library folder the Mac OS should recreate a new library folder with the default settings and let you log in. After you get into the formerly broken user account, you can start moving the old library items back into the new library folder. Do that work slowly, one folder at a time. Each time you move a folder, restart the computer. Eventually you should find the broken item and be able to remove it permanently.
I have an Apple eMac running OS X 10.3.9. I have a HP DeskJet 932C printer. When I try to print anything I am told that printing jobs are stopped. When I try to start printing again I get the error message: pictwpstops-got an error disposing of document=-9783. I am computer illiterate so all the help you could give me would be greatly appreciated. Help on where to look for solutions would help also. I just spent 4 hours looking thru several troubleshooting forums without finding anything useful.
The most effective way to troubleshoot a printing problem like yours is to reset your printing system on the Mac. Mac OS X uses a central printer system to control all printers and sometimes it gets fouled up. You can get to the printing system through the Printer Setup Utility application. It is located in the Utilities folder that is inside the Applications folder. Under the Printer Setup Utility menu, select “Reset Printing System.” Next click on the Reset button and enter your password when prompted. All your printers in the list will disappear. You can now add your printer back to the list. Click on the Add button and select your printer from the list. Wait for a few moments and then click on the Add button at the end of the list. You should now see your printer in the main Printer List. Close Printer Setup Utility and try printing something.
I have a dilemma. I am running an ancient OS X of 10.1.5. (please try to hold back your laughter). I need to upgrade. My problem is that I don’t have enough RAM. Well, should I say enough original Apple RAM to suffice. I need additional RAM to upgrade. I am trying to put Tiger on my CPU, but I get a ‘kernel panic-no platform’ error. I have never upgraded because it never seemed like I needed to, or I just couldn’t afford it. It still runs like a charm, so I may even consider the trade in program. Please let me know where I can get good RAM. My unit description is as follows:
G4 (Digital Audio version) Charcoal
533 Mhz (I believe)
128 MB RAM (upgraded to 640MB)
Well that is an interesting error to get when installing. It seems strange that RAM that shows up in Mac OS X 10.1 would not work with OS X 10.4. In my experience, if it works in one version of OS X then it is almost certainly going to work in another version of OS X. I am curious, did you get an OS X Tiger CD pack from Apple? If you only have a CD-RW drive, it would not read the Tiger install DVD. Perhaps you have a non-retail version of OS X. If it is a retail version then it will have a black label. If it is grey-labeled, then the installer is locked to a particular Mac model that came with 10.4 pre-installed.
I have a Mac PowerBook G4 1.33 Ghz/512 RAM/Superdrive/10.3.9. It works great and I love it, but my job requires me to use software that is not compatible and I must go to the dark side (buy a PC). What is your buying policy? Can you give me a quote?
You can certainly get a quote from me or by calling into our sales line. We would need to know the screen size and all the details, but sending us the serial number would let us get most of that info. Unfortunately, we do not buy computers outright. We take them as trade towards another purchase. In the past this would have been a problem for people who need to use PCs for work, but everything has changed in the last year. Now Intel-based Macs can run both Windows and Mac operating systems, essentially giving you the best of both worlds. A MacBook could be set to boot into either Windows XP/Vista or Mac OSX. Some users will boot into Windows during work hours and then use the Mac OS when they are at home. There is also the option of running Windows and OSX together with the Parallels Desktop software. Intel Macs have made it so you do not have to choose one OS over the other; all opportunities are available for the modern Mac user.
For the longest time I have not had to enter any passwords to operate my (single-user) Mac (OS10.4.8)
I recently had to re-size my boot partition (with Drive Genius) and re-installed the OS.
Since then I have had to enter a password when I boot up, and when I open Mail. Where did I go wrong? What can I do to go back to not using passwords to get around?
OS X has passwords for everything, that is part of the security, but they can also be a headache. To avoid entering a password when starting up your Mac you will have to go to the System Preferences. From there go into “Accounts” and click on the padlock to unlock the preference window. Enter the password you used when you created the account. Now click on “Login Option” in the lower left side of the Accounts window. Place a check mark in the first checkbox for “Automatically log in as…” Select your user account from the pulldown menu and enter the password again. Now you won’t have to enter a password on startup again.
As for your other passwords those are stored in your Keychain. In your Utilities folder is a program called Keychain Access that will help you manage your passwords, but for the most part you can just tell each application to store your password in the Keychain. When you enter your password in Mail, look for a check box for “Remember this Password in keychain.” Mark that Checkbox and enter your password. Now you should be set, and password free!
If I install this card in my G4 733MHz Power Mac, will I be able to connect a USB 2.0 iPod and transfer at USB 2.0 high-speed rates? Will the iTunes software recognize the non-built-in USB high-speed ports?
Most USB 2.0 cards will work without drivers in OS X. They will not work well in OS 9, and if they do work at all, it is often at USB 1.1 speeds. If you are using OS X 10.2 and up, then you should be able to use a USB 2.0 card in that G4 tower of yours without any problems. It works like it’s native USB 2.0 for all devices and software, including iPods and iTunes.
Searched thru your answers, very informative but didn’t find my situation. I use USB drives to move files around and they have worked well up until recently – when I started plugging them into OSX machines. When I go from my older iBook (9.2) to my Mac mini (OS X) some files – notably Appleworks files – show up as some kind of system files and can’t be opened on the Mac mini – even from within Appleworks. If I use my LaCie USB drive, they do show up and transfer OK. I run Appleworks in Classic Mode on the Mac mini. There are other file types that do this as well. Am I missing something about file naming/extensions? I have thought maybe I should convert to DMG for the transfer but I’d like to keep things simple – like in the good old days.
I think you were right to suspect that the file extension is at the root of your problem. The change to using filename extensions in OS X created some controversy among Mac users because extensions aren’t needed in OS 9. We have seen many great things out of OS X, but one tradeoff is that we now need to think about filename extensions. For Appleworks files it should be the same as the old ClarisWorks extension: ….CWK. So when you’re saving files from OS 9 applications, make sure to include the file extension. One nice use of filename extensions is that you can easily change what application is associated with that extension in OS X. Hold down the “Option” key and click on a file and select “Get Info” from the pop-out menu. Use the “Open with:” section to change the default application and then click on the Change All button. Now, for example, all your .cwk files will open in Appleworks.
Using filename extensions and telling OS X what application the extension is for should fix your problem. Good luck
In OS 10, there is a sidebar on the left side of every window (with my preferences, that is). You can place and remove shortcuts to different folders, programs, etc in there.
My question is: When I am within a program (say, InDesign), and I do something like Save As… or Export, a window comes up and asks where to save the file. On the left side of this Save Window, there is that sidebar but I am unable to edit the shortcuts on this one. How would I be able to edit that?
That sidebar in the "Save," "Save As," and "Open" windows should be exactly the same as the one in the Finder windows. If you make a change to the sidebar in a new Finder window then it should also change in the Save/Open windows. You may need to click on the square blue button with the black triangle on it in order to see the side bar navigation. It is the button next to the file name field and it will show or hide the sidebar navigation when you click it. Apple provides access to OS X’s Finder navigation for non-Apple programs. This helps software developers better integrate their software with the Mac OS. Some software companies do not use it, but most do.
Make your changes from a main Finder window and you will then see it in the "Save" window.
I recently traded in my iMac (700Mhz G4) at a local Apple Specialist store for a newer 17 inch iMac, 1.25 ghz. and later discovered that the newer model wouldn’t boot into OS 9. I still have my original OS 9 install discs complete with software restore discs, applications and OS X. I wouldn’t have traded my older Mac if I had known that OS 9 would have to be abandoned as a default operating system. I do have an older Blue & White 300 Mhz. Yosemite model that I want to run OS9 on. At present almost every OS 9 application is non-operational on this B & W model including DVD player. I have OS X Panther installed and DVD player works when I use OS X. Why can’t OS 9 applications work if the installation was successful? Is the OS 9.2 iMac version that came with my iMac compatible with a Blue & White tower model or is there another OS 9 full install version that I need to make my machine work? I replaced the original CD-Rom with a DVD-Rom, supplied as an added bonus by my local Apple Specialist. Do I need to erase the drive and start over, install my iMac OS 9.2 only or get another version of OS 9?
Not all OS discs are made alike. Some of the versions of OS 9 are only for use in Classic and others are only equipped to support specific hardware. Starting with Mac OS X 10.2, Apple did not provide a separate OS 9 install disc as part of the software included with new computers. OS 9 had to be installed as part of the restore or separate install. It may be that your iMac OS 9 is not a full version but instead a version intended to be used mostly through OS X Classic. If that is the case then you are going to have troubles. A good test is to try launching “SimpleText” to see if that OS 9 Application works. If SimpleText works then the base part of OS 9 is functioning. At that point it is just a matter of troubleshooting your extensions and trying to repair them. It may be better and faster to buy a used retail copy of OS 9. The good news is that any version of OS 9 will run on a B&W G3 tower. Just perform a clean install of the retail OS 9 and you should be fine.
I am totally new with my new Mac and it keeps talking about the administrator and they keep asking for my password. This is my home computer and I use it for my own business at home. How do I get a password? I have tried doing what I have read on this subject without any success.
One of Mac OS X’s best security features is that it requires a password for nearly any potentially hazardous change to your system. It can be annoying, but it keeps malicious software from installing without your knowledge. The Administrator password is created the very first time you start up OS X. If you only have one account on your Mac, then your standard account is the Administrator account and your password will work as the Administrator’s password.
Now Apple knows that people sometimes forget passwords. However, Apple did not want to make it easy to reset a password for security reasons. As a security measure, what they did was to include a password-reset utility in every modern OS X install disc. Boot up off the install disc by holding down the C key on Restart. You will need to have the first disk of your grey restore discs or the OS X install disc in the Macs optical drive. After you pick your language you will see the main installer window. At the top of the screen are a few drop-down menus. Select "Reset Password" from one of the menus. Then select your account and reset the password.
Using a good password in OS X will keep you safe and help you control the changes being made to the Mac. Some people will leave it blank but even then you still have to hit OK before anything will install.
First of all thank you for this service, number one in my book. Here’s my problem… I downloaded update material w/out checking what it was. Come to find out it was OS X 10.4.9 for PowerPC or the new Intel. Ever since I did this, my computer boots up to a screen with the loader bar and nothing loads. I did get a message after downloading something about a broken chain or pipe, can’t remember. I have done everything you have told other people with similar problem except replacing the battery in back. Could that possibly be the problem?
Often the service being loaded tells you what portion of the system is having trouble. As the progress bar moves along the text around it should indicate what is loading. Try restarting your Mac a few times to see what it locks up on, and if it is the same thing each time. Then restart your Mac with the "Shift" key held down to get a safe boot. If the safe boot works and you have identified what the problem area is, then you should see if it is something you can reinstall or repair with Disk Utility.
Now if you can’t even safe boot, then you will need to do an Archive and Install from the latest OS X install disks that you have. Archive and Install is selected within the install options section of the installer. The Options button is at the bottom of the window where you select the destination drive. That will fix your OS software without over writing your personal data. Then you should "Repair Disk Permissions" from the Disk Utility. At that point you can try to upgrade your system again.
I have heard some people talk about a "code" associated with the two software Install and Restore disks that come with Power Mac G5 systems. I’ve have never heard of a "code" and have never had a system ask me for a code when using install / restore disks.
Is there such a thing as a "code" that is required when using install / restore disks on the Power Mac G5 or are these people mistaken?
Could it be that some are confusing the Administrator password that an install / restore requires with the term "code"?
Unlike the Windows OS, none of the Mac OS versions require installation codes. That is, except for Mac OS X Server. Apple server software will require an activation code on first startup. The Install/Restore DVDs that come with new Mac computers are different than discs sold in retail packaging. One big difference is that those Install/Restore DVDs have more software than just the OS. They will include all the trial software and additional iLife applications that come with the new Mac. The other significant difference in Install/Restore DVDs is that they will only install on certain computers. You can’t use a G5 tower’s Install/Restore DVD on an iMac. Other cross-model install attempts will also not work. However, as long as you have the original DVDs that came with your computer you should be fine, and no code necessary.
If the system’s user password is what is stopping the installation, just restart the computer with the first DVD in the optical drive. Hold down the "C" key when you hear the Mac’s boot chime. That will let you boot from the DVD and then you will not be asked for a password when you try and install.
I recently bought a copy of Panther from PowerMax to upgrade my mom’s classic, front CD loading, blue iMac. When I tried to load the new program, it wouldn’t load. I later read the instructions where it has to have a least 128 ram of memory. It has the memory that came from the factory. What I want to know is there anything else I need to do to upgrade my mom’s computer besides adding more memory? I drove up to Santa Barbara from LA to do this before, so I want to have everything with me to complete this process before I drive up there again. Also what type of memory do I need to buy from PowerMax to upgrade my mom’s computer?
Other than RAM, you’re going to need software and firmware updates. If your mom has a fast Internet connection you can just bring the RAM. Otherwise, you should burn a disc with what you need and bring it with you. The most impotent thing to update is the iMac firmware. Here is a link to all the firmware updates needed to install OS. You will also want to get all the available OS 9 updates and the 10.3.9 Combo Update. All those items are free downloads from Apple’s website. As for RAM, there are two main types of G3 iMacs and each take a different type of RAM. For the best performance I would suggest you buy a 256MB stick of RAM. Anything more is not going to help much, but anything less is going to leave your mom’s system running slow. If the computer has a slot in the front the CD slides into, then you are going to want a full sized stick of PC133 RAM (PN R-PC133-256). If the iMac has a tray that comes out then you are going to need a SODIMM stick of RAM (PN R-WS-256). Also, if it is the latter iMac, you are going want detailed instructions on installing the RAM, as that model is hard to open. Here is a link to the instructions you will want to print out. That should take care of your mom.
My main Dot Mac account is now receiving lots of spam after years of none. How can I reduce this without giving up subscription or changing address? None of the stuff is actually addressed to me! If I make a mistake in an address it doesn’t get through yet all this stuff does. Is it a matter for Apple and who should I contact?
Dot Mac has an effective Spam filter that catches much of the Spam sent daily. The problem is no matter how clever Apple is at filtering Spam, the senders of Spam are determined to get it to you. Their persistence is impossible to counter 100% of the time, and every so often they find a new way around Apple’s guard. What you are seeing could be the temporary success of the spammers. They will likely soon be caught and stopped, but it may take some action on your part as well. On the Dot Mac servers there are plenty of known Spam lists and special “intelligent” filters to look for Spam-like attributes. Mail that gets past those filters is then sent to your computer but not necessarily to you. Within the “Mail” application is additional Spam filtering tools. In the Mail Preferences is a “Junk Mail” section. There you can turn on filtering by checking the checkbox next to “Enable Junk mail filtering.” Work with the default settings for a little while and work to train the filters. “Mail” will learn about what you consider Spam and will start taking care of it automatically for you.
The reality is that we all get Spam, tons of it. Dot Mac just has been taking good care of it for the most part, but they can’t get it all the time. So lend Apple a hand and soon they will beat back the slimy Spammers. That is until Spammers find a new attack.
I recently upgraded from OS 9.2 to OS 10.4.6 on a dual-boot G4 DP 867 MDD system.
Get Info comments are viewable when booted under OS 9 but not under OS 10.4.6.
What’s this all about? Is there a way to make the comments viewable while running under OS X?
OS 9 Comments are not viewable in OS X 10.4. Apple has implemented "Spotlight Comments" in OS X 10.4 and they are stored in different ways. There are free and Shareware utilities that will move OS 9 Comments to OS X. Comment Synch is one that I have heard good things about.
I am considering buying a pre-owned (used) iMac which will have an older version of OS X (like 10.2 maybe).I currently also have a Mac mmini running OS X 10.4.8. Can the install disc for my Mac mini be used to upgrade the OS on the older Mac?
There are several complications with installing newer system restore disks on older equipment. The first complication comes from the difference between the PowerPC and Intel versions of OS X 10.4. If your Mac mini has an Intel processor, then the version of OS X you have will not run on the older PowerPC iMac. Even if your Mac mini has a PowerPC processor, those grey discs that came with the Mac mini will not install on any other type of Mac. Apple tries to prevent you from using those discs because it is technically stealing an OS sale from them. If both computers are PowerPC-based Macs, you could use a program like Carbon Copy Cloner to clone your 10.4.8 system onto the iMac. That would give the iMac OS 10.4.8, but it would also include all your data from the Mac mini. Mostly, it is best to upgrade the operating system from retail discs. The good news is that this year 10.5 will be released, and then you can buy a copy of that upgrade for your systems.
We also sell install discs of varying versions separately from our used Macs, so if you’re looking for a particular version, we may be able to help you there. We don’t include OS CD’s with our used Macs because many of them don’t come with when we acquire them, and often customers aren’t in need of the discs anyway, so we make them available separately for those who do.
I have an iMac 400 MHz machine that was running system 9.X just fine. I wanted to upgrade to System X but someone told me I’d have to upgrade my firmware first. So I did and lost the display in the iMac. I now have a second monitor hooked up to the iMac and system 9 or X runs fine. Is my iMac’s display salvageable or must I have the other monitor hooked up until I replace the computer? A PC tech couldn’t get this issuecorrected either…..
I have seen this problem many times before when OS X was new. An iMac loses connection to its built-in screen most often when you upgrade to OS X without first installing the firmware update. It could be that the firmware did not install on your system or was installed improperly. The fix can be as simple as reinstalling the firmware. From this link you can find all available firmware that you need to install OS X. Here is the specific link for your iMac’s firmware. Please follow the directions on this page point by point. You will have to download and run this update from OS 9. At the end of this process, you should see a message that says your computer’s firmware has been successfully updated to version 4.1.9. You may see a message saying that the firmware is up-to-date and will not run. If you see that message then your only other "Home Remedy" would be to zap your PRAM. To zap your PRAM, start up the computer holding down the "Apple," "Option," "P," and "R" keys. Let the iMac chime four times before you let go of the keys.
I have a iMac Power PC G3, 512 mb memory, processor 600MHz. I would like to
create a wireless network in my house, which would include two Windows
computers and the iMac. The iMac does not have a Airport Card. I have a
Linksys Wireless-G broadband router(WRT54G) that I tried to use, I haven’t
had any success in my endeavor.
If I purchase a used airport card (a-51540) / or a Airport Extreme Base
Station could I make the wireless network happen.
The iMac OS is Xversion 10.2.8 and 9.2.2.
The Apple Store suggested a new iMac, but I think it should be possible
without going to that extreme.
Your advice and expertise would be appreciated.
Apple no longer sells the tools you need to take your G3 iMac wireless, that’s why the Apple Store people could only offer you an extreme solution. You are perfectly right to think that a 600 MHz iMac will connect wirelessly. The original airport card that you mentioned will work, but you will also need an added part. Slot loading G3 iMacs like yours need something called an Interposer. The Airport card will slide into the Interposer and then get inserted into the iMac through the RAM hatch on the bottom of the computer. You need to remember to connect the antenna to the card before you slide the card into the iMac. Here is a link to instructions on installing the Airport card.
There is another solution to go wireless but it will only work in OS X. The Addlogi XWireless-G USB Network Adapter for Mac OS Xwill also work but it takes a little extra setup. Also, Addlogi Xwill not support OS 10.2.8 but I have tested it and found that if you use the 10.3 driver that it will work in 10.2.8.
Your WRT54G router should work fine, try running the setup utility from the PC and see if that fixes your problem. Also make sure that your DSL / Cable modem is plugged into the port marked as either Broadband, Internet, or WAN. You will want to also turn off the DSL / Cable modem before moving the connection to the wireless router. Then power up everything when the ethernet cables are connected.
My husband is locked into using survey software that runs on OS 9 and was sold off to another company who dropped the line. If he were to buy a G5 iMac, would he be able to boot up in OS 9.2? Classic may not be the answer for him, as he needs to be able to run his plotter and printer while in OS 9. I am not sure if he could do this in Classic. Up to now, he has not even installed OS X.
Is Classic even shipping with the new OS X.4.2 in the G5′s? Thanks for any light you might be able to shed on this situation.
Macs introduced after the beginning of 2003 will not boot into Mac OS 9. They are OS X computers only and will only run OS 9 programs through the OS 9 emulator called Classic, which is part of OS X. A new iMac G5 will still come with Classic on discs but it will not be installed. However, you are right to wonder if your husband’s survey software will work in Classic. Some software does not run in Classic at all, or runs poorly, although other programs work well. See if you can find a friend’s computer with OS X and Classic to test it on. If it will run in Classic then you are just in time. As Apple switches all Macs to Intel processors your options to run OS 9 applications are disappearing. Intel-based Macs will not run Classic at all. Find the fastest PowerPC based system that will run that application because this will be the last upgrade for your husband’s application. Don’t fear if Classic doesn’t work for you, PowerMax still has many OS 9 booting computers just for people in your husband’s position.
How do I make my WD ext HD Firewire/USB 120g into a bootable drive? I use an original Cube 500mhz w/panther 10.3.9, 1.25 GB RAM, 120g int. HD and have a SuperDuper to use for b/u to the WD ext hd.
Most new external hard drives come formatted in an old PC disk format, called Fat-32. They do this because nearly all computers can read and write to a Fat-32 hard drive. Macs also can use Fat-32 disks, but they cannot boot from those disks. What you will have to do is reformat that Western Digital drive as a "Mac OS Extended" drive. You do this by opening the Disk Utility application, found in the Utilities folder that is inside the Applications folder. Select the WD hard drive in the left hand pane of the Disk Utility window. Then click on the erase tab. Change the "Volume Format:" pull down menu to Mac OS Extended and then name the drive. Once you click on the "Erase" button the drive will be overwritten in a Mac-only format. This will cause you to lose all the data on the WD drive, so back up those files! Now you will have a bootable drive that will only need an OS installed or cloned onto it.
This is the same step you should do with any new drive that you buy. The only reason to leave a drive formatted in Fat-32 is if you share file between a PC, using the drive.
I have a 933 mhz G4 desktop running OSX 10.4.8 and OS 9.2. I have the start-up HD set to OSX 10.4.8. My problem is whenever I start up using the preferred OS it comes up then it automatically selects a particular application, PageMaker, and starts up OS 9.2. I do not know how this happened but I do not want to start up PageMaker which is an OS 9.2 application, every time I reboot the machine. I know there must be something that needs to be reset but where?
There are several ways a program can auto-start in OS X. One way is to place an application in the StartupItems folder that is in your main Library folder. However, the more common way applications auto-start is through a user preference. Go to the System Preferences and click on Accounts. Select your user account and click on the "Login items" tab. You will probably see PageMaker in the list of auto-starting applications. Click on PageMaker to highlight, and then use the "-" button to remove it from the list. That’s it, PageMaker should only start when you want it to. Often you can add or remove login items from the Dock. If you click and hold on an application’s dock icon, a menu will appear. One of the options is "Open At Login" and selecting it will cause that application to auto-start next time you restart. An auto-starting application will have a check mark next to the "Open At Login" menu item.
I have tried to download some programs like dvd2one as an example and am unable to open it. It goes right to my disk utility and I can’t find a program that will open anything that I download. Please help me.
The problem you are experiencing has to do with file compression. Most downloadable software has been run through a process that makes the end file smaller, but unusable in its smaller size. This act of compressing a file into a smaller size has to be undone by an application that understands how it was compressed. There are many varieties of file compression programs and OS X understands the majority of them. Unfortunately, some compression software is proprietary and it requires you to use that company’s software to uncompress those files. In your case, “dvd2onex211.zip” is a ZIP file and you will need an unzipping application to decompress it. The most common Mac program is Stuffit Expander and it was included in Mac OS version prior to OS 10.4 Tiger. You can get a free unstuffer here but they will need your email address and will then use it to market to you. Once you have installed Stuffit Expander, all those files should start to open up for you.
I have a G4 Mac and am using OS 10.4. I have on my hard drive a folder called “System Folder 9″. Do I still need to keep this on my hard drive even though I’m using OSX? Can I just delete the folder?
The question of whether you need an OS 9 System folder on your OS X computer depends on what software you use. The OS 9 System Folder is installed on some OS X Macs so that the “Classic” environment will work. Classic will allow Power PC-based Macs to use OS 9 applications in OS X. This is particularly helpful for longtime Mac users who have old programs that were never rewritten for OS X. I still use one or two and so keep Classic on my computer just for them. If you do not have any old applications, then you can safely remove the “Applications (Mac OS 9)” and “System Folder” from your computer.
An OS 9 System Folder is not always easy to remove because the OS X operating system actively references it as part of Classic. The easy way of removing it is to go into the System Folder and moving the file “Finder” to the trash. Then you need to restart the computer. After the computer has restarted you can move the whole System Folder to the trash. Most likely you will have to enter your Admin user name and password to make that move. I would discourage you from emptying the trash for a week or so until you know that you don’t need Classic for any of your applications.
Hope that works well for you.
Why won’t the music play on a MacBook Pro for the website www.furbabyrescue.com but a Windows-based PC allows all the music to play on that website?
This is actually not a Mac Vs. Windows problem, but a browser-specific issue. That web page uses a “bgsound” tag in its HTML source, which starts the music playing. This tag only works with Internet Explorer. All other browsers, whether on Windows or Mac OS, will ignore it. There was once a version of Internet Explorer for the Mac, which I still have a copy, and I tested the page with it. Sure enough my Mac was playing “BeeGees_ToLoveSomebody.wav” as soon as the page stopped loading. This is one of the problems with Internet Explorer, it ignores standards of web programming and instead does things its own way. If the world was owned entirely by Microsoft there would be no problem, but luckily we have choices. As more people choose web browsers that are not Internet Explorer, web developers will need to adhere to standards. Only then will the web look, and sound, the same to all.
I have an iBook G4 that I just got from you guys refurbished. I had another one of similar vintage which I had given away and still had the start up discs, so I did a hardware check up. Everything came back fine. However, whenever I start up the computer, it first shows the question mark folder that looks like the classic folders, then goes into OSX. Is there some latent problem that I should be worrying about?
There is no need for worry, that flashing folder icon is what a Mac displays when it is searching for a boot volume. A Mac will keep looking for a boot volume until it finds one. That could be a hard drive, DVD/CD, or an external hard drive. The reason you see that flashing folder icon now, when you did not see it before on your other Macs, is that the hard drive has not been designated as the assumed boot volume. Your Mac has to look around for a second to find where OS is on the hard drive. The fix for that is simple. In OS X go to the System Preferences and select “Startup Disk.” In the Startup Disk preference you can select which version of the Mac OS that you want to boot from every time you start your Mac. If there is a locked padlock in the lower left corner you may need to click on it and enter your password before you can select your version of OS X.
Now when you start up your iBook it will start loading OS X without delay.
I have a 6116 Mac that will not start up even when I insert an OS 8 disk. I continue to use this old machine because of the need for a timber cruise program that is no longer available. The newer machines will not run this program. So I have babied this old machine to continue use of the timber program. I use an LQ wide printer with this computer, which is also a problem with newer machines. The timber cruise software is programmed for this printer. As far as I know the newer computers are not adaptable to the LQ printers.
Any suggestions on getting this computer going? The start-up disk did work once. After that no luck. Also is there a multiple scan 15 monitor available?
I had a similar problem with my favorite CAD software. Claris CAD was the first CAD program I learned, and I still can whip together blueprints in that program faster then any other. I even kept an old Mac SE around to run the program because Claris CAD worked so poorly in OS 8.6 and up. As it turned out, when I started using OS X full time, I fired up Claris CAD in the Classic environment and it ran beautifully. I have to make Disk Images of floppy disks to save documents to, but other than that, this old application works great in OS X. To print I have to get creative and generate an EPS file and then convert that with an OS X application but it sill works. I would bet it could work for your lumber program as well. You are going to need a new computer because I think that Performa has sung its last song. A G4 iMac would be a good choice and would hold up over the years.
For some reason the Macintosh HD icon on my eMac keeps appearing near the middle of the desktop, instead of staying put on the top right-hand corner each time I boot up.
It doesn’t appear to do this from a restart – it normally just happens after I have gone home for the night and waits for me to power-up the next morning. It is currently running Panther.
Curiously, I had similar thing happen to my old Clamshell iBook that is running 10.2.8 Jaguar, but it stopped doing this after I used the ‘Safe Boot’ (by holding down the shift button at startup).
I tried safebooting the eMac, but to no avail, every morning the HD icon doesn’t stay put in the top left hand corner. I wouldn’t say that the desktop is overly crowded with icons either.
A few things may be causing this to happen so I am going to have you try three things. First click on your desktop once. Then hold down the “Control” key and click again without releasing the mouse button. A menu window will appear next to the pointer. Select “Show View Options” from the menu. A small window will open. Towards the bottom of the window will be a checkbox labeled “Keep arranged by” with a pull down menu below it. Check the checkbox and change the pull down menu to “Kind.”
Next, from the same window check your icon and font size. The icon should be about 40X40 and the text should be 12 pt. You may want to adjust the size of both the icon and text to see if those are affecting your system.
Lastly check to see that your hard drive’s name has no extra spaces. To do this, click once on the hard drive icon and once again on the name of the hard drive. The hard drive name will be highlighted meaning you can edit it. Retype the hard drive’s name as you like it to appear. Click any place on the desktop when done.
One of those three things should fix your problem. Let me know how it works.
I recently experienced problems with connecting to my printer, getting Tech Tool program to run. After working with the staff at Tech Tool via e-mail without success. I finally bit the bullet and installed Mac OS 10.3.4. Everything worked! What’s your take on the 10.3.9 OS system? Also, what will the move to Tiger be like?
I have found very few problems with Mac OS 10.3.9 but I would recommend you do some drive maintenance before upgrading. Open the application Disk Utility found in the Utilities folder in the Applications folder. From the left hand side of the Disk Utility select your hard drive. Then look for a button called “Repair Disk Permissions.” When you click on that button all your files will be checked for errors that could interfere with an OS installation. Those files will be fixed if problems are found and those fixes will be displayed in the box above the button. Quit Disk Utility after it is done repairing your disk permissions. Now you can upgrade your OS. I would recommend doing this every time before you do a big update.
Tiger has had some problems in its first few releases. Most copies sold now are at version 10.4.3 and are very stable. Of course you will need to upgrade further to 10.4.9, but 10.4.3 and up are all good versions of Mac OS X.
Upgrade as needed!
Why do the pre-owned macs not include an OS disk?
There are a few reasons PowerMax does not include OS / Restore media with pre-owned Macs. The most substantial reason is that not all Macs are traded in with the original discs. Many of the Macs that become PowerMax Certified Pre-owned computers come from individuals, but others come from businesses and schools. Many home users will save the box and CD pack of their old computer, but not all; so combined with the school and business acquisitions, we have less than 50% of the media we need to include a disc with each system. Obviously not every customer will need the original media for the computer they are buying because they plan on installing a newer OS or have an old drive they are moving over. We decided to offer the OS / Restore discs separately because we wanted to be able to offer the people who really needed the discs the option of having them instead of just letting the inclusion be random. On the other hand, we were able to lower the price for the people who don’t need the original discs because they are upgrading or already have one. Every computer will have a clean OS installed on it, and that’s a good start, but at some point almost every Mac owner will need an OS install disc and we are happy to offer multiple options for them.
I am a graphic designer. Presently I have a Mac G4 running on OS 9.22 with all graphic applications
Not sure what should I do? Get a refurbished system or wait till I could afford a new one, but then I have to upgrade most of my software. It seems like by the time I pay for it, it is too old. My worry is one morning my system will not come up and I can’t get my work done. I do back up my work files.
I am also taking a course in web design; the class needs to be on Explorer 6 or better. My system has Explorer 5 – now – I have to take the class on a PC (I do not like the PC).
With the class you are taking, you have a definite need for an Intel-based Mac, but your current use of OS 9 applications will make that an expensive move. An Intel Mac would allow you to work with Explorer 6 through Parallels, but OS 9 applications are not supported on Intel Macs. I have seen people get Classic applications working on Intel Macs, but I wouldn’t recommend the hacking method they use for the programs from which you make your living.
Because Microsoft discontinued Internet Explorer for the Mac before it reached version 6, you are only able to use it on an Intel Mac by running Windows through Parallels or Boot Camp. However the class you are taking may only request Internet Explorer 6 so that all students have a common browser to view their work. It may be ok for you to test most of your web design work with the cross-platform browser Firefox, and then do your final preview in Internet Explorer from a fellow student’s computer or the library’s computers.
Without Internet Explorer in the way, you could then just buy a Previously Owned Mac that can run OS 9 Classic and OS X 10.4. That would allow you to use your old applications and slowly start buying Universal versions of software to replace your old programs. Then when all your software is transitioned to new Universal software, you can trade in the PowerPC-based Mac and buy a new Intel-based Mac.
Hope that gives you some ideas.
No matter what I try, I can’t get any sound from my G5 Mac. I have checked the preferences and they all seem to be correct. I am simply trying to get simple alert sounds and the start up sound. iTunes would also be good!
I do not have any external devices connected, other than my keyboard and my router. I bought the machine second hand and have not had any sound from day one.
I have so far, replaced the front fan and internal speaker and reset the PRAM.
The lack of sound on your Mac could have a few different causes. First check the audio settings in System Preferences. Click on the Sound preference and then click on the Output tab. At the bottom of the screen verify that the “Output volume” slider is all the way to the right and the “Mute” checkbox is unchecked. Above the volume slider is a two-column list with “Name” and “Port” at the top of each column. If everything is working as it should the list should have “Internal Speaker/Built-in Audio” listed. If that is shown try plugging in a pair of headphones to the front plug and the listing should change to “Headphones/Built-in Audio.” With headphones plugged in you should be able move the Balance slider from right to left and hear corresponding beeps in the headphones.
Now if nothing is listed at first but headphones show up, then your internal speaker port probably is damaged. If the list always shows headphones plugged in, your front board may be damaged or have a jack tip stuck inside. If the listing never changes even when you plug into the line jack in the back of the G5 then your whole audio chipset on the logic board is probably to blame. You can try updating the firmware. I have not heard of an audio problem fixed by firmware but give it a shot. The last step would be to use a USB audio adapter and Multimedia speakers. Try the Griffin iMic 2 and some budget speakers.
I bought two iMacs for the women in the office (PowerPC). They have a couple weird problems that I can’t figure out. The first is that when they print (to an HP2200 network printer), it sometimes cuts off the right hand side. Two different documents (Excel and pdf), so I don’t think that was it. When the same documents are printed on a PC, they print fine.
The second issue is kind of similar. Our bookkeeper has to go to a government school website to print documents. When she looks at the document on the Mac, it is tiny and “wraps” around so the headings aren’t all on the same line. It prints out the same way. Again, it looks fine and prints fine from a PC. I can’t find where to change this.
We too use the HP 2200 in our office and have had great success with them, but we do go to HP’s website and download Mac OS X print driver updates. I would have you start there at first but I do not think that alone will solve the problem. Something to look at is the orientation of your paper in Page Setup. You may be printing a document formatted to print horizontal on a page but not changing the settings for the printer. In each application you are printing from go to “Page Setup” under the File menu. In there try changing the “Orientation” from vertical to horizontal or the reverse of that if it is already set to horizontal. Also in that same window make sure you have US Letter selected as your Page Size.
The website problem has more to do with the browser support of that website than your Mac, but it will be easier for your Mac to adjust then for the website to be rewritten. A first step is to try a different browser. I would recommend keeping a copy of Firefox on your computer when you encounter this problem. You can get a copy for free here: http://www.mozilla.com/firefox/. If the page looks the same in Firefox as it does in Safari, then you can try to adjust the size of the text displayed. In Safari’s View menu are two options, “Make Text Bigger” and “Make Text Smaller.” Make the text smaller until it looks right to you and then print.
My OS 10.3.9 G4 Mac has problems printing from the Mail program. When I print, the text runs vertically in a thin column and takes about 4-5 pages to print even the shortest of e-mails. I’ve tried reinstalling printer drivers to no avail. It occurs on all our office printers, yet I print the messages from my PC from MS Outlook and they come out fine. Our mail is IMAP controlled if that matters. Any thoughts?
The problem you describe seems like a “Page Setup” problem. When the problem is only with one program and a variety of printer models, it is almost always a Page Setup issue. Under the File menu in Mail is Page Setup. When you select it you will see a standard Page Setup Window that looks the same in near every application. It is important that you make the changes to the Mail Page Setup because although they all look alike the settings are different for each application. The “Format for” should be set to “Any Printer,” “Paper Size” should be set to “US Letter,” and the “Orientation” should be set to the left most icon with the man standing straight. Scale is often set to 100% but can be less. Click OK after you make those changes and try to print. If the problem persists then something could have been changed with the US Letter settings. Go back to Page Setup and select “Manage Custom Sizes” from the Paper Size pull down Menu. In the Custom Paper Sizes window, click on the “+” button. That will make a new page setting. Set the width to 8.50 in and the height to 11.00 in and then double click on the untitled name of your custom page. Name it something you would remember. Now click OK and then select your new custom page from the Paper Size pull down menu. Click OK and then try printing again.
If both those suggestions do not work try downloading the latest print drivers for your printer. Good luck and I hope you are able to print this email.
I’m having a major problem trying to upgrade my dual G4 1.25 MHz Mac from 10.3.9 to 10.4.x. The Mac has 65+ gigs of free space and 1.25 gigs of ram. Here’s the problem:
The installer program runs ok through all the prompts until it gets to the point where it says ‘preparing target disk’ after the target drive has been selected. The problem is that after running for 30 to 45 minutes, the program displays the message ‘There were problems with the installation process. Please try the install again.’ I’ve even let the install process run overnight with the same results.
At this point, I’ve run the disk utility and repaired permissions. I also have Tech Tool 4 but that utility does not seem to have anything that would help.
Any suggestions or information of any kind would be greatly appreciated.
It looks like you have done the basic step one should do to fix that problem. The next steps are more advanced but should hopefully save your data and get you to 10.4. The first thing to try is a different install option. When you select the destination drive to install onto there is an “Options” button at the lower left of the window. Click on it and select the “Archive and Install” option. Make sure to check the checkbox for preserve user data and network settings. Then install as regular. If you find that the installer fails again you are probably dealing with a hard drive issue. The drive could be fixed with a reformatting but you do not want to lose your data and applications. I would recommend that you buy a new internal hard drive and install it in one of your open drive expansion bays. Then you will need to format the new hard drive from Disk Utility. There is a copy on the 10.4 install DVD under the Utilities menu. Now install Mac OS X 10.4 onto your new drive. That will almost certainly work. Once the computer has booted up to the new install of 10.4 you can start entering your information like it was a new computer, but when it asks if you have information from an old Mac say that you do. Pretend like you have a computer in Target disk mode and click through the menus. It should then find your 10.3 hard drive and import your data and applications from that drive. Now you need to verify that all the things you want are on the new drive. After a week or so of living on the new drive and checking everything is on it, you can erase the old drive and start using it as additional storage. Keep an eye on it as it could be a failing hard drive. Back up the data you store on it.
Hope the moves you to 10.4 without delay.
My PC friends keep sending me emails attached with .eml and .wmv files.
How can I play the PC-based files under Mac OS 10.4.6 (Tiger)?
.WMV files are Windows Media files. You can download a player from Microsoft, but the better solution is to use a program called Flip4Mac. It is also found at Microsoft’s site through this direct link.
.EML files are outlook email files and should not come in as attachments. That is a common way for viruses to spread in the PC world. Your friend should instead “forward” those emails to you, not attach them.
Hope that helps
I received a Mac mini Model Number A-1103m and it was a gift from my daughter that is in the service and I have know idea when she will be back in the states. Yet I can’t log on into any type of file on my computer because it won’t allow me to enter a log in password. So what can I do to either reset a new password, or get another one.
It is not too hard to reset your passwords on a Mac mini if you’ve lost the password. What you will need to do is restart your computer and boot up off the grey Install Disc that came with your computer. First insert the disc into the disk drive. There may be more than one, but you will want to use the first one in the set, often with “Disc 1″ labeled on it. Once it is in the drive restart the computer and hold down the “C” key. When you hold down the “C” key on start up, your computer will boot off whatever disc is in the drive, as long as it is a bootable disc. It will take a little time to start up but eventually it will ask you to pick a language. Take your finger off the “C” key and choose English (I’m making that assumption because that’s the language with which you asked the question ). Now you’ll want to look in the menu for a “Reset Password” option. You can usually find it under the Utilities menu, but it can be in different places depending on what OS version you have. In the Reset Password utility you select your user account and enter your new password twice. I would recommend writing the password down and placing it in your wallet for safe-keeping. Now you can quit the utility and the installer and restart the computer. You do not need to hold down any key. Now use your new password to login.
I’m considering the purchase of a Mirrored Door G4. What is unique about the FW800? Does it just have an extra FW800 Port? In comparing two M. D. G4/1 GHz models everything being equal as far memory, HD, disk, etc how much cost increase for one of them being a Dual Processor? Also am I correct that all of the G4′s will boot from OS 9 & OS X? And 1 last question is USB 2.0 on any stock G4?
Isn’t there a way to get Spotlight to catalog everything on the hard drive? Does it just do it automatically in the background?
For the most part, Spotlight is always active but it only indexes your drive at scheduled times. You can tell it is building an index of your hard drive if there is a blinking white dot in the center of Spotlight’s magnifying glass icon. It is possible to have Spotlight ignore areas of your drive or types of files. In System Preferences, there is a Spotlight section. The “Search Results” tab shows you the type of files found by Spotlight so for the most results you should have everything checked. The “Privacy” tab is where things will be excluded from Spotlight searches. Anything in the list will be excluded, so for the most results you should have nothing listed there. Other than those changes, Spotlight should find everything your user account can see. Hidden or locked files will not show up for you.
When is it OK to rename a hard drive in OS X? Will you cause problems by doing that?
It is fine to rename your hard drive at any time in OS X. The only thing you will want to do is make sure that no other computer has your hard drive mounted remotely. If you do not use file sharing then you are fine, but if you do, just unplug your network connection and turn off your Airport wireless card. That will disconnect your drive from other computers on the network that may be sharing your files. Then just click once on your hard drive and go to the file menu. Select “Get Info” and go to the “Name & Extension:” section to change your drive’s name. This should not cause any problems and is a common customization to make.
I have a G4 with the Tiger 10.4.8 OS. Ever since I installed the new OS my mail has been so finicky. It will send sometimes and other times it won’t. I can only on occasion send one photo at a time from my iPhoto and even at that sometimes it sends and other times it doesn’t. Also, it is so slow now. I can’t go forward or backward when I am searching because it takes so long… HELP!!!!!
Apple’s Mail application stores massive amounts of email-related data in a variety of resource databases. It remembers our sent and received email of course, but it also saves all the email addresses we have interacted with, sorting rules, and junk-mail rules. The more data it saves, the more likely an update is going to break old databases, especially if you save most of your old emails. I have emails from the ’90s in my computer at home.One Mail database that often gets damaged is the “Envelope Index.” This is a SQLite database that provides important information about your emails, but it is just a listing of information. If you delete it, a new database will be created based on the emails you have stored on your computer. You can find your “Envelope Index” in your home folder’s library folder (/Users/”YourUserAccountHere”/Library/Mail/Envelope Index). Quit Mail and then drag “Envelope Index” to the trash. Now just restart Mail. It will act like it is importing new mail but it is really just rebuilding the “Envelope Index” file. Start up Mail and test its speed.Give that a try and let me know how it works for you.
I bought a used eMac a couple of months or so ago. We use it in our newspaper. This morning it was slow. Now I can’t get it to boot at all, with or without a CD – holding down option+c or anything. It comes on and the apple comes up, sometimes you get the little whirly thing, sometimes not. It acted like it wanted to come on once off the system 9 CD, but locked up. I’ve switched keyboards, disconnected the printers, etc. shut it down for a while to let it rest, still no go. I’m getting frustrated. I’ve been working with Macs for 10+ years and have never had one I couldn’t coax into coming back to life.
It sounds like some part of your OS X system has become corrupted. This can be caused by hardware failure or just system file damage. To find out where in the OS X boot up process your system is failing, you can try booting up in Verbose mode. When booting up the computer, hold down the Command (AKA Apple) key and “V” key. You will see a detailed text list of services starting on your Mac. Pay attention to where it stalls. Knowing what service fails to load completely can help you find the broken files or the related hardware that could cause an issue.After the computer has been frozen for enough time to determine the hang-up, pull the power cord and restart the computer. Now what you’ll want to do is boot up in ‘Safe mode.’ Do this by holding down the “Shift” key on startup. If this works you can start repairing the drive. Running a Mac OS X Combo update is a good first step. Then keep troubleshooting.If that doesn’t work, you’ll have to boot into “Single User” mode. Boot up your computer holding down the Command key and the “S” key on start up. When you see a command line prompt, type “/sbin/fsck -fy” without the quote marks and press the Return key. Follow the on-screen directions.Here is a link to this info and some more tips from Apples site: Apple articleI hope this gets you up and running again. Please let me know.
While setting up an administrator account in order to ‘compute safely,’ I can’t seem to be able to give permanent permission to use Airport in other accounts. Each time I log in to either my usual account, or a visitor account that I give permission to do about everything short of administrator, I have to type in the admin password in order to access Airport.I’ve repaired permissions, etc.Any ideas?
There could be only a few things interfering with other accounts accessing your home wireless network without administrator approval. My best guess would be that you need to set your preferred network. This is how you can do it in Mac OS X 10.4 but it’s similar in other versions of OS X: When logged into the Administrator account go to the System Preferences. Select “Network” and change the “Show” pull down menu to “Airport.” You probably will have to click on the locked Padlock icon in the lower left hand corner to make changes. Enter your password when you are prompted and click OK. Now click on the Airport tab. Change the “By default, join:” pull down menu from Automatic to Preferred networks. In the window below you should see your home wireless network. If you do not see your home network, or you want to have more networks in that list, click on the “+” button. You can type the network’s name or if you are near the network you can select it by clicking the down pointing arrow to the right of the text box. Then enter the network password if you have one and click Ok. Before you close the Network preference window click on the options button. Make sure that the “Require administrator password to:” section has no checkboxes checked. Click the OK button to close the Options window and then click the Apply Now button to save all you changes. To be certain, you may want to repeat these steps for each account you have on your computer.Although other things could cause this problem of yours I think this will likely solve it. Let me know how it works for you.
I bought a used, under warranty iBook G4 from you last July. It has a combo drive. When I try to copy something to the drive, I get an error message saying it cannot find the program. Since I didn’t receive any program disks with the purchase, what am I missing and/or what do I need in order to copy to a CD?
Modern Mac computers support “Desktop Burning” for the creation of data CDs. No additional software is required. With Desktop Burning you just need to insert a blank disc. The system should ask if you want to open it in the Finder, iTunes, or Disk Utility. For data discs choose “Open in Finder.” If you do not get this option you can set it in System Preferences in the “CDs & DVDs” section. Change both the “When you insert a blank CD:” and “When you insert a blank DVD:” pull down menus to “Ask what to do.” When you have opened a blank disc in the finder you will be able to copy files to that disc icon. Then you just need to drag the disc to the trash. The trash basket will turn into a black and yellow burn symbol. Sometimes there is a problem with the OS X burn engine. This could be part of your problem. If when you attempt to burn you get the error you listed above, it could be a corrupted or missing part of the OS. One fix would be to install a Combo update of your OS, which could replace the offending OS component. It is important that you use a Combo update.If that does not help let me know what exactly the error says and when in the process it appears.
Recently (6 mos ago) bought a G5 2.3 dual from PowerMax. Currently it has 4.5g of ram, 250 internal HD, NVIDIA 6600, running 10.4.8Used for photoshop work; optimizing and processing large numbers of raw files, graphic designAttached to the computer:23″ HD cinema screenLaCie d2 CD/DVD burnerLacie porsche 160 ext HDLaCie d2 250 ext HDLaCie d2 500 ‘big disc’ ext HDUSB hubEpson 2000CF readerThe computer has been a dog lately, relatively slowWhat I’ve done:Techtool proDisk Permissions repairResetting appl. preferences on slow appsTried resurrecting an old G3/400, installing the basic 10.3.9 system and using it to manage the external HDs, but then a new issuepopped up; the network would recognize the internal HD on the G3, but none of the ext HDs. File sharing etc was turned on but no ext HDs.So: looking for suggestions on getting the G5 to work faster.And, was it just a pipe dream to think that hooking the ext HDs up to a separate computer in the network would speed things up? and why wouldn’tthe network recognize the ext HDs through the G3Thanks, I appreciate any info / advice that you can give
Many things can cause a system to slow over time. There is even a term: “Bit Rot,” which describes the way data on a hard drive goes bad over time. Data on a drive, including the operating system files, will become corrupted over several years of operation. Your computer is not old enough for this to have happened but reformatting your hard drive every year, then reinstalling software and files, would prevent Bit Rot.Your problem is most likely do to a full drive. When you tell me that you have 4.5 GB of RAM and many external drives, I think that your swap file could be constrained. Every Mac user needs to keep two times their RAM capacity available on the boot hard drive. That means that you have to have at least 9 GB of drive space available. As you know, RAW photo files are large, and when you open many files at a time it fills up your Swap file, which is where your RAM stores data it needs but ran out of room for. When one Swap file fills up another is created. This means that you could need even more free space on your hard drive. For you I would recommend leaving 40 GB free on that 250 GB internal drive. Also you may want to reboot your system every day or whenever you notice it getting slow. That will reset your Swap file and let you start fresh.As for you network problem… You should have been able to see your attached drives when connected to your old computer over the network. You have to login with the administrator’s user name and password. Once you enter the correct info it will ask you what volumes to mount over the network. Just select the external attached drives connected to you old computer.Hope that solves it for you. Good luck.
Hello. I bought several MacBook Pros. I am going to give an old one to my dad. So I want to change my name as admin along with putting in his details. How to you do that. The computer only has me as the only user/admin.
The process of cleaning out a Mac can be very simple if you keep your personal files in the places Apple suggests. The first step is to create a new user account for your father. This should also be an Administrator account. To create a new Administrator account, go to System Preferences and click on “Accounts.” Click on the little locked padlock icon on the lower left corner of the window and enter your password when prompted. The icon should now be an unlocked padlock icon. Now click on the “+” button above the padlock. Enter your father’s name and a password for him. If you help your father with his computer often, consider writing down the password and keeping it in your wallet. The last thing to do before you click the “Create Account” button is mark the checkbox that says, “Allow this user to administer this computer.” Now you should see your father’s account in the users list.Log out of your old account for the last time and log in as your father. Go back to the Accounts preference and unlock the padlock icon again. Now this time you are going to click once on your old account and then click on the “-” button. As long as you have all your data moved, you can click on the “Delete Immediately” button. Now this will be a clean system for the most part. Some people do not keep their personal data in the user account as Apple expects. In that situation you will have to drag these personal files to the trash, one at a time.Hope that works for you and your dad.
Well, I ordered my new MacBook (Duoprocessor, not Duo 2 ) from you guys and just thought of 2 quick questions:
1) Since the new MacBook has a built-in iSight camera, will I still be able to use my “external” camera so that I can aim it manually at my kids when my parents want to see them playing, etc.? Or does the internal camera override?
2) Will I now be able to have a multi-person iChat session with my brother & parents if I start the session (based on a standard DSL connection)? Or do I need a faster connection? (Is a cable connection faster?)
Thanks so much! I really appreciated your help with my previous question re: hard drive & RAM size to order.
You can use a FireWire-based iSight camera with Macs that have a camera built-in. To switch from one to the other is an option found under the iChat Video preferences. Although you may be able to switch cameras mid-chat, I would not recommend it. In most cases just leave your FireWire iSight as the primary camera. All Intel-based Macs can host video conference (multi-user) chats so you can start those for your family and friends as long as they have at least a 1GHz G4, dual 800 MHz G4, or any G5 / Intel Mac. Although you can host these chats over a wireless connection, you will get the best performance from a direct ethernet connection to your DSL modem.
DLS is often fast enough for four-way video chats but it will have slower data speeds the further you are from your phone company’s main office. Cable internet speeds can be faster than DSL because of that DSL distance issue. Get friendly with your neighbors and see what speeds they get from their cable internet connections. Switch if you find that they are outpacing your DSL connection.Hope that helps.
How do I add new printer profiles (Epson Stylus Photo 2200 and/or Epson Stylus C84) on my iMac G5 running 10.4.8 (Tiger).
Adding a printer can be a simple process, provided that Mac OS X has built-in drivers for it. In the Utilities folder within the Applications folder is the “Printer Setup Utility.” Start up that utility and click on the “Add” button. The “Printer Browser” will open and show you a list of many of the available printers on the network or directly connected to the computer. Find the printer you want in the list and click once on it. Wait for the Add button in the lower right hand corner of the window to turn from grey to black and then click it. That should add your printer to the master list of printers and will set it as your default printer. If you have trouble seeing a networked printer (one connected to the network and not the computer) and you use an ethernet network then try turning off your Airport. Having two active networks can cause problems.. It may not be necessary, but having an updated printer driver can help take full advantage of a printer’s features.. Before adding your printer, try downloading the latest Mac OS X driver from the manufacturer’s website and install it. Then when you add the printer through the utility it will use the most recent driver..Hope that gets you printing.
So good of you to offer your services and knowledge to the greater Mac public…Have a question for you -A friend has a .mac account and has recently updated to a new iMac 20″ – now she has a full .mac account but isn’t able to access all the functionality – namely photocasting and syncing – when she puts her details into the .mac pane of system prefs it will not recognize her, and returns a message that there is an error. In turn she can’t photocast as it won’t acknowledge her password or account. She has been able to successfully retrieve email with mail and the account settings pointing at her .mac account, she can also access the web browser component of .mac. Do you know of any issues or work arounds for this????
This kind of .Mac connection failure is interesting because often it is a password or username typo. In this case you have entered the same information in the online .Mac login and it works. That would demonstrate that her account information is accurate and it is something with how the iMac is connecting to .Mac’s servers that has failed.. As long as you are using the same display name (the email address without the @mac.com) and the same password that gets you into the .Mac web-mail, then it should connect the computer to the other services.There was an issue this last summer with some .Mac users being cut off by the Wanadoo/Orang ISP. You can read the long discussion but this particular issue was resolved (Apple Discussion). One interesting solution that worked for some on this discussion was power-cycling the DSL modem and rebooting the system. In another instance the 10.4.6 update broke some users’ connection to .Mac (Apple Discussion). I believe updating fixed the issue, but an interim fix was to remove the passwords from the Keychain and preference pane, then reenter them. If your problem is related to these past issues, using some of the interim fixes could be worth a try. You should also temporarily eliminate any routers or hubs and just directly connect the Mac to the DSL/Cable modem’s ethernet port. It may even be worthwhile to take the iMac to another location. If you can connect to .Mac from a different ISP then you know the issue is with Hiedi’s ISP, but if it will not connect at both places then you know it is a system configuration issue.As a last ditch attempt, try to connect to the iDisk as if it was not hers. From the finders “Go” menu mouse over iDisk. There is an option to connect to another users iDisk in the pop-out menu. Click on that option and enter Hiedi’s information. Connecting that way should tell you if you are blocked to all .Mac services on her computer or just the one setup inside the system preferences..I hope that helps some, let me know how it works out.
What Is Dual Boot?
Dual Boot is a generic computer term for a system setup and capable of natively running two different operating systems. In the case of PowerPC Macs, Dual Boot means that you can start up the computer in both Mac OS 9 or Mac OS X. Not all Macs can boot OS 9 and OS X. Most newer PowerPC Macs will only boot into OS X and any older application that needs to run in OS 9 will have to be run in emulation through the Classic environment. Some software does not run well in Classic so some people will need a Dual Boot Mac to run their application natively.