Archive for the ‘Displays’ Category
The 30″ Apple cinema display uses a version of DVI called “Dual Link” that provides the bandwidth needed to support such large resolution. To connect the current model Mac mini with your current display, all you need is a Mini Displayport to Dual link DVI adapter.
The display settings should auto-configure as the adapter and display are discovered by the Mac mini.
Ask Jacob Team
I have an older G3 Mac 13″ laptop that I am having issues with the display. If I open my display up too far the lights will go out on it. I then have to close the laptop, and wait for it to go back to sleep, and then open it very slowly to have the lights come on the display. And even then it does not do it all the time. Now once the lights do come on, the display can not be fully opened for a while (What I like to call a warm up) once it is warmed up I can then open it all the way, Is this a Videocard issue or the Ribbon for the display issue?
The G3 and G4 notebook computers have several cables that pass through the hinge mechanism. Repeated opening and closing of the hinge may have worn one of the cables that passes power through to the backlight of the display. Depending on what model of notebook, the cables may be considered as part of the display unit, and should be replaced.
I hope this information has been helpful for you.
I ordered a Mac Mini and am trying to set it up to no avail. I do not have the Apple monitor.
I did go to the Apple store to purchase a VGA adapter. However I get nothing. I made sure it is plugged into the back of the Mini correctly. I am also having a problem getting the disc out. I can feel it spinning but it won’t eject it.
You can force the disc out of the drive by holding down the main button of a USB mouse when the Mac mini is starting up. That should force out the disc. Most VGA displays should work on the Mac Mini.
What model display are you using that will not work? It is OK to use a PC display on a Mac, almost all of the modern PC displays will have no problem working with any Mac, even refurbished Mac minis.
Does running a second monitor on the new 27 inch iMacs eat any CPU cycles or is it all on the graphics card?
It is my understanding that the only appreciable impact of running a second display on a 27″ iMac is with the video cards GPU and VRAM. The VRAM will be split between the internal display and the external display.
The GPU will have to work almost twice as fast to redraw the screen. Your processor will be mostly unaffected except for the added overhead of managing that much more desktop space.
I’m using a 1st Gen Macbook Air and I cracked it’s left hinge the other day, although everything has been running fine.
Today, however, a red glare sort of thing, maybe a hue (I’m not good with the lingo) has appeared on my display and when I move my screen up or down, it goes away momentarily, but if I take my hand away, it goes back to the red tint. I was wondering if you think that the Macbook Air is just completely cooked (I’ve owned it for 2 years), OR, if I take it into the Apple Store (not sure about my warranty), will they be able to do something about it?
Apple laptops run display cabling through the hinges so hinge damage will quickly start to affect the display cables.
There is probably a short in the display cable from its contact with the sharp edges on the crack. You should take it into the Apple or Mac Store for support and to get a repair quote. It will likely require a new display housing with the display, it will not be cheap if it is not covered by AppleCare.
Hope this helps sorry tot hear about the problems.
I was looking the other day at the latest Mac mini on your site and have some questions. I am retiring a mirror door G4 soon and think the mini 239LL might tide me over for a while.
Can I use my existing Apple Cinema Display 20″ 1680×1050?
I have written 3 books using Adobe CS2. Will I have to upgrade the software to use on the Intel chip set? Other known software issues?
Are there any other surprises?
I think other than that you should be set to make the switch and use the new Adobe CS Software but you should check the graphics card requirements for the applications you are planing on using. Some features may not work perfectly on the Integrated Graphics cards used in the Mac Mini.
I am trying to connect a 23-inch Apple Clear Acrylic Cinema HD Display to my G4 Cube. I suspect that I need to upgrade the graphics card. The Display’s power light illuminates, but the Display fails to illuminate at all. Since the G4 Cube has worked fine with my 17-inch Clear Acrylic Studio Display, I believe the graphics card is working, but incapable of supporting the 23-inch HD Display. Please advise what options PowerMax has available to resolve this issue, if it can be resolved.
Please be advised that both my 17-inch Studio Display and 23-inch Cinema HD Display both utilize the hard-wired Apple Display Connector (ADC) and the sole cable and connector for video and other services.
That display needs an ADC connection from a card with 32MB of Video RAM. It is likely that your video card is underpowered for that display. Replacement parts are hard to find, we do not have any, but you may be able to find a card from a high end Cube for sale online.
Hope that helps
My girlfriend and I awoke in the night to the sound of the table with my new iMac 27 inch on collapsing, the Mac landed face-down on the floor.
The glass screen has shattered and the metal casing has warped in a couple of places. Somehow it took the wireless keyboard with it, which is now bent in the middle.
After about an hour of panicking I thought, hmm, I wonder if it still works, so plugged it back in and it sprang to life. The display is perfect, I can access all my files, airport, speakers, cd drive…all good. The keyboard has bitten the dust though, so I’m using my old PC one.
Basically what I want to know is, can the glass be replaced? Would I be without it for a long time, and the big question, is it going to cost a lot to fix?
Thanks very much for your help,
The glass can be replaced easily, it is held on with magnets. However, there could be a problem if the bend in the case prevents the replacement of the glass. If the glass can not lay flat on the case, it may cause it to crack or let dust in. The glass for a 27 inch iMac should be $120-200 to replace but again the bent case is the X factor.
Bring it into a service shop for a better estimate of the work needed to get the glass replaced.
Hope this helps
I’m getting ready to upgrade my Pro Tools studio. I will probably buy one of your used G5 models – looking at 2.3 to 2.7 dual or quad – and I’m wondering about monitors.
I presently have two p810 Viewsonics but want to change those . I do audio post work and am wondering if a larger, like 32″, TV/monitor would work for my 2 Pro Tools windows and video playback – or do you think I should use separate displays? Could one of those be an LCD/HDTV? Lastly, is there a card that will allow 3 displays?
A LCD TV could work as a digital display, but I would make it only one, of at least two displays. A 1080p TV will display a resolution of 1920 × 1080. Where an Apple 24″ LED displays 1920 x 1200. The difference is that the 24″ display basically displays the same info in 24 inches that the HDTV will display in 32 inches.
The TV will have to be set further back for you so that the image the image does not look pixelated. That may work in your studio, but having a high-density display close to you can be better for long term detail work.
This Acer 24″ display could be an interesting mix of a TV and display for you. It has a HDMI and DVI input, to support a video device and computer.
There is not any 3 display video cards for a G5, but you can get a PCI video card to support another display, after you fill up the first two ports that you get with the Apple supplied card.
I was wondering if you could help with a few questions.
I replaced my old Power Mac G4/400 with a G4/800 and have a Dell 24″ monitor that I use to connect DVi to DVi to the old CPU, but this model does not have a DVi connection. (bummed about that…why not?)
I am using the D-sub connection and I would like the digital image quality I had before to work on my Photoshop projects, so how can I connect to the DVi to get better image quality on my monitor?
Do you sell an adapter that will work? If so how much does it run? Will I still be able to get digital image quality from an analog connector using an adapter? Also I am getting a buzzing noise that is coming from the computer. (This machine is louder than my last one) It is not constant. Maybe more of a vibrating noise? Perhaps the fan or something is loose. It seems to get worse (louder) after the computer has been on for a while. If I press on both sides of the CPU it seems to make it less. Sometimes if I just give it a good bang it quiets back down, but probably not the best way to correct it, eh?
Any suggestions on how to fix this? It is starting to drive me crazy. I currently have my yoga strap tightened around it. Works most of the time.
Also one last note. This computer was advertised as having 3 FireWire ports but it only has 2. Am I missing one somewhere? Really bummed about that. I needed 3 for my printer, scanner and back-up drive, so I constantly don’t have to unplug the printer to use the scanner and exchange it back again. Any reason for the incorrect information listed?
Thanks for your help,
The ADC video port on your Quicksilver G4 Mac is actually DVI with power and USB connections bundled in with it. So a simple adapter should let you hook up your Dell display via DVI. This Apple ADC to DVI video adapter should do the trick.
As for the buzzing noise, open up you computer and make sure that there are no cables resting on the various fans in the computer. You can have a G4 running when the case is open, just make sure not to touch any of the circuitry. Look to see if there is a fan on the video card. Those little fans can make extra noise as they age. There could also be some loose drive sleds on the bottom of the case making a metal on metal noise.
I was not able to see where we listed the ports on this G4 PowerMac, but these Macs have two USB ports and two FireWire ports on the back of the units. I think you might have confused USB and FireWire, as most printers and scanners use USB and not FireWire. Apple often lists the computers as having additional USB ports because the Apple keyboard comes with two USB ports built in. So the one USB port that the keyboard uses, is replaced by two extra on the keyboard. That would give you a listing of three USB ports. Perhaps that was the discrepancy you saw in the description.
A good option to get extra USB connections at a higher speed than the internal USB 1.1 ports, is with a Sonnet USB 2.0 PCI card.
The Quad Core G5 that I purchased from PowerMax is a gem – only problem is that I cannot connect it to a 28″ I-INC HDMI digital display to share with my Mac mini.
The Mac Mini with its built-in GFA graphics connects fine through the USB DVI KVM box. It seems that the GEForce 6600 card in my Quad Core seems to be having problems detecting the display through the KVM box. Works just fine via direct connect – bypassing the KVM box. The Box did work OK with my old G4 with a ATI Radeon 9800 Mac Edition via DVI.
I suspect that the KVM box (LINKSKEY 212ASK) is the culprit. I found a refurb. ATI XT1900 cards for Mac on ebay as an alternative graphics card which I am hoping will work with my present KVM box. I use the Mac mini to run wintel apps, but I have a ton of PPC and Classic apps (Including PPC Photoshop). The G5/MAC MINI combo is an ideal solution for my needs. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Thanks for your time,
I do not have personal experience with that brand of KVM but I know some KVMs will have problems passing along settings data to a Mac. When you power on the G5 Power Mac, you have the KVM switched to its port right? In many cases that is essential for the video card to find the proper resolution.
Aside from that, it should work. Please let me know if the other video card makes a difference.
I have a 30” Apple Cinema HD Display (circa 2005) – will all the new Mac Pro Towers run it? OR do I have to be choosy to get one that will work specifically with it? Thanks for your expertise!
I have a dual G4 tower, and will be buying a new MacBook soon. I would like to buy a new Apple display that works for both. Is that possible? From what I can tell the 24″ monitor only supports input from the mini-dvi port, which will work for the MacBook. I do not see a way of hooking the G4 tower to that. Are there any other options?
Unfortunately Apple has done it again. They jumped into a new connector format without a thought about the Mac user who has older Mac equipment. The 24″ Apple LED display is a truly great companion to the new Mac laptops. Although they work on all new Macs, the 24″ display is a docking station for laptops. They provide power and a host of desktop features to give you two macs from one. A Mac Laptop tied to a 24″ Apple display is a perfect package, and I would like you to have that experience. Sadly that the new display will not work on your G4 tower. It may be better to just get a low end LCD display for the G4 and then use the 24″ LED display as your MacBook’s docking station.
Here is a nice one but there are many good sub $150 displays.
I am considering migrating to a Mac Pro (the new one). But I’d like to make the transition slowly until I am comfortable doing things on the Mac as I do them on my PC (Vista).
My plan is to use my Viewsonic 22” monitor with DVI-D with the Mac as well as my speakers. I use Microsoft Bluetooth Keyboard and Mouse (Can I use these too?). Anyway, is there a (inexpensive) dongle I can use to allow me to use my monitor and speakers without actually unplugging them from my PC to the Mac and back?
Also, I plan to use Outlook on the Mac. How do I convert all of my old email to the Mac?
Thanks in advance for your support.
What you need is a KVM switch and there are two you should look at. The IOGear KVM switch is particularly nice for this kind of device switching. Many KVMs do not have audio switching or us DVI, but this IOGear Micro View KVM Switch will do.
Which ever unit you get should help with the monitor an speakers. The wireless keyboard mouse combo should work as long as it is the kind that uses the USB dongle attached to your current Mac computer. Otherwise you will have trouble pairing those devices with two computers. You may need to use the Keyboard and mouse that come with the Mac Pro until you retire the PC. After that a PC bluetooth keyboard/mouse will work well on the Mac.
I have a Black MacBook and a 50” HDTV. I would like to put them together so I can watch movies and surf the web and basically use my TV as a monitor. Is that ridiculous? I would like to purchase a wireless mighty mouse and keyboard to keep by my couch, and leave the MacBook closed and hooked up to the TV. How, if at all, can I accomplish this? I realize I’m not going to get HD quality out of my Mac, I just want to be able to read webpages, and watch movies in standard definition.
On a side note, If this works well enough… I’m planning on purchasing a new Mac Mini to replace my MacBook on the entertainment center.
Your Mac computer should connect just fine to your HD TV and kick-out a full HD signal. I have an old PowerBook G4 connected to my HDTV at home. I mostly play standard definition TV from my EyeTV archive upstairs but we have played HD shows on the TV though the Mac. The PowerBook G4 has trouble keeping up with decoding the HD signal, your Intel Mac should have no problem with HD shows. You will need three cables to connect to your TV through HDMI. Your TV will need to support HDMI with an RCA audio connection for this to work.
Later when you move to the Mac Mini, you can reuse these cables. Most web pages are very readable and recorded TV looks great. Consider also getting an EyeTV system to record HDTV and this Adesso Keyboard / Trackpad combo (note it is Windows keyed but works on a Mac).
I have an eMac with this processor: 1.25 GHz, Power PC G4. The memory is: 512 MB DDR SDRAM. The eMac was purchased 12/01/04. Could this eMac be used as the display for a Mac mini? What would I need to do to connect the two units?
There is no physical way to connect the screen of an eMac or iMac to another computer. They are hardware locked to the logic board of Apple computers. You can, however, use the built-in screen sharing feature of 10.5 Leopard to view and control the Mac Mini remotely. They both need to be connected to the same network and the Mini would need to be configured to allow remote connections. So it would need to be connected to a monitor and keyboard-mouse for the initial setup. You would also need to upgrade the eMac to Leopard to control the Mac Mini. After that it the eMac should be able to see the new Mac Mini as available for screen sharing in the sidebar of any Finder window. If this is just a matter of saving money, you can get an LCD display that will work on your Mac Mini cheaply. It will work two times better than Screen Sharing, perhaps ten times better.
I just bought a Mac Mini from PowerMax, and, when I finally got around to setting it up today, I discovered that the cable from my Apple Studio 15-inch monitor is too wide for the slot on the Mac Mini. The adapter that came in the box isn’t the right one. What sort of adapter do I need?
Because the Apple ADC based LCD displays received their power from the ADC port on the older Macs, you will need more than a simple cable adapter. You need the powered Apple DVI to ADC Display Adapter.
You could also consider getting a newer LCD display, like this Acer 19″ display, that is bigger for just a little more than the powered adapter.
I was curious as to how much impact screen size has on the performance of the Graphics Processing Unit. For instance, if you were trying to run a graphics intensive program (let’s say a game) on a 20” iMac versus a 24” iMac (both using the same GPU). Will the performance of the card be better on the smaller screen?
Finally, does the resolution have much impact (can you match resolution across the two different screen sizes-and will this matter)?
There are some graphic performance differences between higher and lower resolutions. Particularly when it comes to consuming VRAM. However, with modern video cards, they don’t exhibit too much
difference between the 20″ and 24″ iMac native resolution resolutions. This is particularly true when you have 512MB of VRAM. Each extra pixel on screen has to be stored in VRAM on your Apple computer. So with only 256MB of VRAM, the difference between 1680 by 1050 and 1680 by 1050 can be enough pixels to push data out of VRAM. When that happens your Frame Rate drops.
Although you can set the screens for a lower resolution, LCDs really should be run at there native resolution for best performance.
I have the last generation iBook G4, and I am wondering what the Video port is called, and what adapter I need for use with today’s LCD displays?
My daughter has one of these G4 iBook. The only computer display port that you can use is VGA, an analog connection. You will need a Mini-VGA to VGA adapter cable to connect a VGA display.
The good news is that many LCD displays support both DVI and VGA connections, or have only VGA ports. Take a look at the 17″ LCD displays with VGA. You will be limited to a 1024 X 768 image, no mater how big the display, the iBook is set to only Mirror what is on the laptop display. That limit on your iBook is 1024 X 768 pixels, so do not over spend on a display.
We are a small nonprofit agency in Charlotte, NC, and about 18 months ago a local college donated to us a set of four PowerMac G4 towers and 3 17-inch Studio Displays. Everything worked great until a couple of weeks ago when, within 12 hours of each other, two of the G4s would not turn on unless we disconnected the displays and hooked up a non-ADC monitor. We can’t tell if the problem is with the towers or the monitors. We have one G4-ADC combo that is still working, but the “sick” G4s won’t work if I hook up the working monitor to them. I tried to use an DVI to ADC adapter, thinking that it might help if the issue was the inability of the monitor to pull sufficient voltage through the ADC cord, but that didn’t work.
Any ideas? I’d hate to think that the monitors were no longer usable, since they seem to be in good shape.
Well the first step in troubleshooting a ADC monitor is to remove and then reinstall the video card. Believe it or not just reseating a video card can help. I assume these are LCD based Apple 17″ Displays, if they are CRT displays, then there are a host of issues that follow the CRT models. First the CRT models will not run off DVI to ADC adapters, and second the CRT models draw so much power it can be under powered on on many ADC video cards.
If the problem is with the LCD ADC display, then it may be a USB problem inside the display. When using the DVI to ADC converter, try not connecting the USB plug to see if that has any effect. Also make sure the computer is directly connected to the wall outlet. That should eliminate under powering issues.
Let me know how that works out,
I recently bought a NEC LCD2690WUXi With SpectaView from Powermax. Can’t get my G5 to recognize the monitor when I try to calibrate it. I’m using 10.5++ and Photoshop CS4. Is there a color card I should have?
The SpectraView II software is used to calibrate the display itself, and not the video card settings in the Mac computer Displays System Preferences. All you should need to do with the Mac OS preferences is find a baseline setting, then just let the SpectraView II software calibrate the monitor to true color.
Do you have to have an Apple monitor to display my Power G5 Tower or can I get another brand computer monitor?
You have many monitor options that will work with a Mac G5 Tower. The best kind of display to look at would be a DVI based LCD monitor. Almost any of these 20″ displays will work well with your G5 and many are priced to fit a tight budget. The Apple displays are certainly nice but not everyone needs that exact quality of display.
Hope that helps,
I’m wondering if Apple ever took responsibility for these irksome lines??
After my G5 iMac developed a bunch of these lines, they told me at the local Mac shop I’d have to replace the screen. After three months (and almost $600 later) the new screen was out of warranty and developing new lines, mainly on the right-hand side.
Now there are about 23 of them.
There was only one Repair Extension program for the G5 iMac that I know of and that covered the logic board and power supply. That program is over now but it would not have required the replacement of the LCD. You may be able to convince Apple that this is an unacceptable product lifespan for your iMac and would like them to consider other options, I just do not know how successful that will be. If the LCD work was done by an Apple Authorized service center you should have enough justification to a least start a conversation with Apple Support.
Sorry to hear about your problems and I hope it works out for you.
Hey Jacob, I am wondering if it is possible to have a dual display on a 2001 eMac?
The answer is a yes and no answer. The eMac does support an external display via an Apple Mini-VGA to VGA adapter.
The Apple driver only lets you mirror what is displayed on the built-in screen of the eMac, you will not be able to extend your desktop as most would want to do. That being said, a clever fellow created an application that will allow you to unlock the Extended Desktop mode in some iMac, eMacs, and iBooks.
But check the list of supported Apple machines before you install and remember this is unsupported by anyone, especially Apple.
Hope this helps,
Finally had enough with PC. Sooner (mostly) or later they’ve all become time-sucking aggravators. So I’ve decided to ease into the Apple world and I have purchased a used Mac mini and should receive it next week. I’m of the understanding from reviewing the PowerMax site that my PC printer, etc will all connect and work if they are USB-connected.
What about my monitor, which is not USB? The cable/port that came with my monitor is identified as a D-sub 15 pin. How do I connect it to the Mac mini?
Both new and used Mac minis supports two video connection types called DVI and VGA. VGA uses a D-sub 15 pin connection, so your old PC monitor should work fine. The Mac Mini has a DVI port on the back of the unit but it will allow your VGA monitor to connect to it via a DVI to VGA adapter. New Mac Minis come with that adapter but not all used systems ship with adapters. If you find that your Mac Mini came without an adapter, then you will need this DVI to VGA adapter.
I have the studio screen that came with my G4 cube. I have enjoyed using it as a second screen to my MacBook Pro for big graphic/text projects, to keep track of everything at a glance. In a recent move, the semi-rigid plexiglas stand on the back snapped off. I have been afraid to plug it. Is the stand just a prop or it is part of “the works.”
You should have no fear about plugging that monitor into Apple computers, except the fear it may fall over. A well-placed, heavy lamp can hold the display upright when the rear foot is missing. This is a common failure of the clear plastic Apple LCD display. That is not to say that it happened all the time, but the displays are so solid everywhere else that the foot became the only weak point in the display. Many displays have suffered the same fate as yours and have gone on with productive lives. Images on the display will still look just as good as they did before, after you get it in the proper position, and stable.
After the visual inspection, reconnect the cable and power up your computer. If it is still rose-coloring your image, start moving your display cable to different positions, watching for a change in appearance.
If all that fails, it could be time to let the display rest in peace and replace it with a new Apple 23” Cinema Display.
I’ve heard that the 20″ iMac display is not as good as the 24″. Is there any truth to that?
Yep, we think the screen on the 24 iMac is better than the 20″ iMac, and not just four inches better. The display is brighter, by close to a third the brightness of the 20″ iMac. This is important with glossy screens because it can counteract glare from overhead lights or a window, while still providing sharp color. Also the display has a greater viewing angle, 178° verses 160°. What this means is that you will have better color representation across the screen as your eye moves around. The lower the viewing angle the more washed-out images look from the corners of your eyes.
On a much more anecdotal note, I have yet to hear anyone complain about their 20″ iMac. Whatever you’ve heard could just be the number of 20″ iMacs sold compared to the 24″ iMac, but still, of the rare complaints I hear regarding iMac screens, all are about 20″ iMacs.
A friend of mine has a 17″ Apple display, apparently the one around 2001-2002 that had screen flashing or flicker. She said it has one half of the screen is light and the other side is dark. She heard there is a class action suit out there, but more importantly – do you know if they will fix it or is it chalked up as a loss.
Displays, in general, often are not worth the cost to repair. This is true for not only Apple displays, but for any brand of monitor. Three years is the longest that Apple will cover a display’s repair costs and that requires the purchase of AppleCare for the display. Without AppleCare, it is covered for the Apple standard of 1 year. Sometimes Apple identifies higher than average rates of failure in certain products. When that happens they will extend the repair warranty on a product. Those products and conditions are listed on Apple’s exchange repair page.
Of course class action law suites are not listed on that page. This is the link to the Apple 17″ Display Lawsuit you mentioned, which has already ended. The settlement covered a yearly decreasing dollar amount for the repair covering to that three-year mark. As it stands the display can still be fixed if it is just an inverter board, like what is described in the lawsuit. That part (when you can find it) costs about $70 and Labor could run another $45.00 to install the part. The product is marked as “vintage” and that designation could make it difficult for you to find the parts in stock.
It may be better to invest that money in a newer Acer 19″ display.
I have an iMac G5 and would like to upgrade to the new 24″ Intel Mac. However, I absolutely refuse to buy ANY Mac with one of those ridiculous high gloss screens! Any idea if or when Apple will give us the option of a matte screen or at least a way to change the hi-gloss one to a matte one? Most professionals will then seriously begin thinking about a new Mac.
A lot of time has gone by and Apple does not seem to have any intention of dumping the glossy “iPhone like” iMac screen. I have heard many complaints about this and I only have two practical solutions. The first would be to buy one of our Pre-Owned Intel iMacs, pre-Aluminum. The other option would be to get a smaller-screened 20 inch iMac and a 23″ Apple Cinema HD Display and run them together. I do this at home and extended desktop works perfectly on iMacs. Make the 23″ display the primary and the iMac with its screen can be the pallet monitor.
Mull it over I think it may be the right solution for you. Remember that you will need an Apple Mini-DVI to DVI adapter cable to connect the two together.
I keep records for the church on a Mac Powerbook G4 and I recently encountered a problem where the display window is black. I did not inherit an operating manual, and I am sure it’s something simple. How do I get the display on?
Well the display blacking out could be a few things. The system could have gone to sleep; you can wake it by pressing the space bar. The battery could have run out of charge. Press the button on the bottom of the battery to check the charge indication lights. If only one light flashes than it is not charged up. You could have also turned the display brightness down. Turn the brightness back up via the larger of the two “Sun” keys. The big and small suns will be printed on two of the function keys.
It could also be a failed backlight in the display, which is a big problem. You can test that by shining a flashlight on the display and seeing if you can see items on the display but darkened.
Currently I am in Iraq so my resources are very limited, I have a 2.4 GHz MacBook with the 160GB hard drive. I dropped the laptop and the screen broke. I want to get a MacBook Pro but I want to get all my pics and iTunes music off the old hard drive. I know it works, I put it in a friends computer. My question is, do they make an external hard drive case I could put the drive in? Or do you know any other way to do this? Also, do you know if I can get back all the music I purchased from iTunes?
You do not have to be in a war zone to have lost a laptop screen to an accidental drop. Most often, I hear about this happening with systems used in schools, but this scenario can bite anyone. There are several positives in regards to Macs with broken screens. In most cases your computer can still be turned on into what is known as Target Disk mode. Hold down the “T” key when you start up the computer. After 30 seconds or so you can let go of the key. After that, you just need to connect your damaged Mac to a working Mac via a FireWire cable. In a way, the Target disk mode turns every modern Mac into an external hard drive.The good news is that when you start a new Mac, you are given instructions on putting your old Mac into Target Disk mode. Once the computers are hooked together, it will automatically move all your old data over and setup the new system just like your old one. Even if your computer can’t boot into Target Disk mode, you can put the drive into an external drive enclosure, or another similar Mac, and move the data over as if it were on your used Mac. I have done this many times and it makes switching Macs as easy as changing a shirt.The other nice feature of your MacBook is that even with a broken screen you can use it with an external keyboard, mouse, and display. This will turn your laptop into a desktop, which is still better than tossing it away. Your MacBook will need an adapter cable to work with a display, and the cable you use depends on the connection on the display. Typically DVI displays are better and they use a Mini DVI cable adapter. Another option is a VGA display adapter.You can use any USB keyboard and mouse you like. I personal like the new Apple Aluminum keyboard and a Logitech wheel mouse.
Will your Aluminum 20-inch Apple Cinema Display work with my Pismo Powerbook G3?It has 1GB of Ram and OS 10.4.11. If no to the G3 Pismo, would the display work with the same Pismo with the G4 upgrade?
Sadly, no, the Aluminum 20-inch Apple Cinema Display will not work with your Pismo G3. It is a shame because the Aluminum 20-inch Apple Cinema Display is a beautiful display, I am working on one as I type this.
The problem is not just your video card and processor, but the type of external video connection the Pismo came with. You have a VGA connection on your Laptop and you need a DVI connection to run an aluminum 20-inch Apple Cinema Display. You would also need a better video card with extra VRAM. It is probably not the best choice for older Macs. There are many LCD displays that will work with your VGA connection.
I have a 17″ studio cinema display and it seems to have an “off and on” power problem, USB ports work sometimes. Could it be a bad cord or what?
The Apple Cinema Displays have many cables combined into one connector. Each has DVI, USB, and power wrapped together in a single cable and plug. Although it is a wonderful reduction of clutter, this can create problems.
The first place to check for problems is with the pins in the connector. Look and see if any pin is bent or missing… with that many pins it is possible for one to get misaligned. Provided that the pins look intact, you should next reseat your video card by removing it and then reinserting it. Every feature that runs through the ADC connection also goes through your video card and its connection to the logic board.
If the problem persists, then it could be a short in that ADC cable. See if you can cause and then fix the problem by manipulating the monitor’s cable. If moving the cable has no effect, it is most likely a faulty USB hub in the display. I have seen this before but not too often. In the case of a bad USB hub, it is best to use an available USB port on the computer or get a desktop USB hub
Recent reviews of newest generation Apple iMacs make mention of one of it’s “cons”: that the screen’s glossy appearance (and angle?) is “frustrating”…
What do you make of this assessment? Is the screen angle fixed? And what is frustrating about a glossy screen?
This is personal taste at its purest.
I like a matte screen and my wife loves glossy. We have had many an argument about it when buying a monitor. In the case of the iMac, it is not a big issue, and I have not been disappointed with the glossy iMac. A nice option with the iMac is that you can have both matte and glossy. The iMac supports two screens, one internal (glossy) and one external. If you bought a 20″ iMac and a 20″ Apple display together, you could use both displays side-by-side. One would be matte and the other one glossy, but it’s really mostly a matter of personal taste (and probably just getting used to one or the other as well).
Well, now I’ve done it! I have a G4 dual 450 (“Sawtooth”) and the matching graphite 17″ Apple LCD display. I was fiddling around with screen resolution settings, and selected one too high for the display, which turned to black except for a message generated by the monitor itself saying something about “frequency out of range,” or whatever. The problem is, it stays black and I can’t see to adjust the settings down again. There are no other monitors in the house. Help! I don’t know how to make things work again!
These things do happen from time to time and Apple has you covered. Built into every Mac is a general fix-all startup command that can get you out of monitor resolution errors and some startup errors. It is probably the first troubleshooting step you should use with any hardware problems on your Mac. It is called “Zapping the PRAM” and all it does is erases whatever your Mac had once known about its hardware configuration. Your Mac then searches for devices connected or installed and sets itself up in a compatible way.
With the computer off, hold down the “P,” “R,” “Option,” and Command/Apple Keys. Continue to hold down those four keys and turn on your computer. Let your Mac chime four times before you release those keys. You should now be able to see your Mac booting up and things should start to look normal again. You may have to reset the date and other settings, but none of your data will be lost.
In the new Macbook Pros there are two screen choices-glossy & matte.. Which is the preference?
Well, whether you like a glossy or matte finish on your display screen is like asking "do you like butter or jam on your toast?" The answer is of course I like both, but you may not. The glossy screen provides vibrant color that draws you in. Matte-finished displays are good in many different lighting situations and are what we are accustomed to. Matte displays offer accurate color but glossy displays offer brighter, more saturated images. Many people who work outdoors prefer glossy over matte because of the brightness. In the end it has more to do with individual taste, but overwhelmingly the public chooses matte displays. Glossy is not often selected and it sometimes is returned.
I hope this helps some, but if you can’t find a glossy screen MacBook to examine in person, then you should buy a matte screen model.
Upon installing an OWC G4 500 MHz. processor in my original B&W G3 350, my display shows vertical green stripes. I am currently running OS X 10.3.9. However, the vertical stripes do not show up if I boot directly into OS 9. I contacted the vendor of the G4 (OWC) and they couldn’t figure out what the problem was. Although I can live with the vertical stripes, it would be nice if I could get rid of them. Have you seen anything like this before? The green stripes only show up when a Finder window or the Dock is displayed.
Video artifacts can be the result of several causes. Drivers would be the first thing to check and the simplest fix. During your upgrades to this B&W PowerMac did you install a new video card? If you did, look for an updated video driver for OS X. Also look to see if the processor upgrade card you are using has two drivers. Perhaps one is for OS 9 and the other is for OS X, and only one was installed. Because the green lines are only displayed in OS X and not 9, it suggests a problem with just the OS X operating system. However a hardware problem can cause this as well. Bad video memory on your video card can result in symptoms like this. I have seen video RAM issues that only appear in OS X and not OS 9, so it would fit your experience. The only way to fix bad video RAM is to replace the card. However, before you go and buy a new video card, I would first check the next reasonable suspect. That last suspect is your firmware on the logic board. Follow this link to a list of firmware upgrades and check to make sure that you are up to date. If all else fails, replace your video card. The ATI 9200 is a good choice.
I have display problem with my iBook G3 (12″). It has to be precariously aligned otherwise the display goes off. It also gives me similar problem with the display when it is run for extended hours and when it gets hot.
There are a few things that can cause an issue like what you described. It could be a loose cable in between the logic board and the display. It could also be a faulty cable shorting out. There is also a chance that your iBook is part of the iBook Logic Board Repair Extension. If you go HERE and check your serial number as described on that web page you will be able to determine if it is covered for repair. Apple could cover your repair and save you a good sum of money.
Take a look at the link and see if it saves the day, otherwise take it in for service.
Hi Jacob, maybe you can answer this for me or please direct this question to someone who can. Regarding the Sony 23 in flat panel Item Number: e05972
I’ve put 3 DELL 23 inch monitors in our prepress department recently and they are fairly solid monitors that cost $700.
Is the SONY’s picture and Color fidelity $400 bucks better? Than the DELLS or other 23" monitors? I’ve looked at the 23 Apple Displays and like the DELLS better…never been able to check out the Sony’s live.
In other words why would I want this one instead? Just curious.
Over the past few years I have found that Sony’s quality and competitive edge has diminished. The simple answer to your question is the Sony display has no advantage to the Dell display. The Dell display is a great monitor, and I can say this because both Apple and Dell use the same LCD panels in their equipment. There are a few advantages in working with Apple displays for color correction, but the Dell displays should look the same as the Apple displays when uncalibrated. You may want to give the Apple another shot in a side-by-side comparison, but I do not think that the Sony display is superior.
My iBook G3 monitor goes black when it is in certain positions or when someone walks into the room (when this happens it blinks black then comes back on). It comes back on when moved forward. What could be done to fix this problem?
Losing video when the laptop’s lid is in a certain position, or when wiggled, is a definite cabling issue. Inside every laptop is a thin ribbon cable that works similarly to a full-sized monitor’s data cable. In addition to the data ribbon cable, there is a thin power cable that powers the LCD backlights. Backlights are like mini florescent tubes at the side of each LCD panel. If any of those two cables are loose or damaged, your screen could black out. These cables are constantly being moved as you open and close the lid of your laptop because the cables are routed through the LCD hinges.
Whatever the cause, you will need a qualified Apple technician to open up your laptop. If it is just a loose connection, then it will be a simple fix. If however, the cables need to be replaced, then you may want to consider spending the money on a new computer.
You may just want to keep using your iBook until the display cables wear out but it will progressively get worse. If the display turns permanently dark, you can always connect the iBook to an external display with a VGA adapter
Some display questions:1. can plasma displays be used as computer monitor? (or is resolution poor)2. or can the Apple 32″ Hi Def be used as TV monitor (switchable?)3. what is largest display that the original 1.25 Ghz Mac mini can handle?
You could use a Plasma screen as a computer monitor, but it would be so blurry you would not want to do much work on it. Here is a way to visualize it. At the highest broadcast level of HDTV, 1080i, you have a picture of about 1920 X 1080 pixels. An Apple 23″ LCD (Apple 23″ Cinema Display) has a resolution of 1920 x 1200 pixels. If your HDTV is bigger than 23″ but has the same 1920 x 1080 resolution, then the picture will be enlarged but with less detail. If you are seated far enough away from the screen it could work, but that adds a distance strain to working with the display. Also many Plasmas will not work well with computers on a hardware level. Your Mac mini can take up to a 23″ Apple display which is close to the resolution of HDTV. A 23″ display makes a good TV as well as a great display.
I have an old but reliable Sony Multiscan E400 attached to my mirror door G4- 1 gig dual processor with 2 gigs of ram.. I am getting started in freelance graphics, (full color direct mail).. In the last day or so, I find that my monitor goes into power mode, and will not wake up. I have to restart my computer. The problem started when I added a USB 2 slot in the back and hooked up an external hard drive. Tonight, I switched my system preferences so my monitor will not sleep. Is it just coincidental that the monitor is going????I don’t want to buy an expensive monitor, as I am hoping to upgrade in a year or so, and then consider a new iMac, but while freelancing full time at graphics, I can’t afford to have my computer go down, and I don’t want to buy a cheap monitor with poor color. Does it sound like my monitor is just going or perhaps another problem???
The permanent sleep of your computer is not related to your display. It is a problem with some USB 2.0 cards.. Certain cards will prevent a Mac from going into deep sleep mode and that will keep a Mac in a semi-sleep state perpetually. It will stay that way until you restart the computer. There are many reports of this exact problem and in nearly every case it is not a monitor problem but related to the card. Your solution will work in the short term, but never letting your computer sleep will reduce your hardware’s life-span. Another option is to buy a new card that will work well with Macintoshes. Apple does not have a list of cards that work with deep sleep but they do have a list of USB 2.0 cards that work with the iPod and that list is likely to reflect cards that also work with deep sleep (a href=”http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=93405″>Apple Tech Article). I like IOGear and they make a nice USB 2.0 / FireWire card (USB2 FireWire Combo Card).That should get your Mac sleeping again.
I’m considering one of your G4 mirror door dual processor (1 or 1.25 mhz) so I can run both OS 9 and 10. Question: are these machines compatible with the newly released 20″ Cinema display? (it must be compatible with the older one, right?)
Every 20″ Apple LCD has had OS X as one of the system requirements. This has caused some debate among Apple users because it’s difficult to imagine a display needing a particular operating system. Graphics cards are an understandable requirement, but an OS has little to do with the performance of most displays. The reason that you need to have Mac OS X with these displays is that the control for the brightness and contrast are only available trough the OS X Display Preference. The display will work with OS 9, but won’t be adjustable. What you see is what you get in OS 9. However, it is an Apple display so chances are good you will like what you see from that display in any OS.
Recently bought a 5300cs PowerBook with a wobbly power connector. We think we fixed the connector and all was OK but now the machine has developed a problem with the screen. When we boot up the screen comes on but with no image on it. It’s as if the brightness and contrast need adjusting – but that doesn’t work. We can tell the computer itself is working because we can hear the sounds – eg when we press the power key to shut down we hear the sound we recorded.We’re wondering if the problem is related to the fixing of the power connector or if is is something new.
It is certainly possible that poor or excessive power could have created your display problem. What you describe is symptomatic of a LCD backlight failure. It could be that the power adapter damaged the LCD’s power inverter. A damaged inverter will prevent a backlight from turning on and make the screen constantly look dim. You may be able to reset the power manager and fix your problem. First zap you PRAM repeatedly. Do this by restarting the computer holding down the Apple, Option, P, an R keys. Let the computer chime four times. Next locate the reset button on the back of the computer near the connection ports. With the battery out and power unplugged, press the button. Plug the power cable back in and press the button one more time. Now press the power button and see if the video comes back. If not you are probably out of luck because there are no replacement parts for the 5300cs outside of perhaps eBay.
I want to calibrate the monitor for my iMac G5 (OS X 10.4.7) using my Pantone ColorVision Spyder 2. How do I reset contrast and brightness to factory defaults? How do I set backlight control to Jacobimum? Where are the controls for White Luminance and Black Luminance? I know I can calibrate using Color Sync, but how does that compare with ColorVision? I’ll be happy to have some advice on this. Thanking you in advance,
The display controls for an iMac’s LCD are software controlled. You access those controls through the “Displays” section of System Preferences. The backlight brightness is adjusted from a slider underneath the resolutions section. You can set the screen back to its default color settings under the “Color” tab. Then click on the Profile that says it is for your iMac. Next to the Profile list is a “Calibrate” button that will help you to adjust color, luminance, and white-point but your Spyder should take care of all those settings. I hope this gets you back in tune with your color.
Is there a wall mount available for this display?
Marathon Computer used to make desk-mounting arms for those ADC displays that could also wall mount, but Marathon has gone out of business. Now that the Apple ADC displays are discontinued I have not found any company picking up the torch from Marathon Computer. You could try to find a used Marathon display arm, but I have another idea. If you don’t need to move the display around, you can secure it to the wall with an L bracket. The back foot will detach from the display and leave a small metal tongue with three holes in it. Take a trip to the hardware store to get an L bracket that can be modified to connect to the tongue on the back of the display. It may take some time to find the right thing, but a hinge may even work. When you attach the bracket to the wall it needs to be connected to a wall stud in order to hold the weight of the display. After you get the display hanging on the wall you will need to use spacers behind the display to get it at the proper angle. It is some serious work to do, but you will have a truly unique setup at the end of it all.
My eMac G4 recently decided to stop working. I don’t know a ton about computers, but it appears that either the display or the video card has gone out (nothing is coming up on the screen except for a thin, red line down the center that sometimes appears to have something moving within it). I know that the hard drive is alright — I was able to transfer my files to my friend’s external hard drive via slaving.
My question is this: is there any possible way to fix this eMac or is it a lost cause? My warranty is expired, so I’ll have to pay for this myself. I thought maybe I could somehow purchase a new video card, but from what I understand, the video card is actually part of the logic board and not replaceable. Is it possible to replace the entire logic board?
If that’s not an option, is there a place I can sell the eMac for parts for money to put toward buying a new machine? I’m fairly broke, so it isn’t easy for me to just up and buy a new computer.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
This sometimes happens to computers and it is never easy to fix when it is an all-in-one system like the eMac. What you heard about the video card being part of the logic board is accurate. Just like iBooks and PowerBooks, an eMac has most of it components, including the video card, on the main logic board. You can have the logic board replaced but that can be very expensive. Also I do not believe that your graphics card, and by association your logic board, needs to be replaced. My guess is that the CRT (Cathode Ray Tube) is the weak point that failed in your eMac. The best way to test and potentially bypass your problem is to use an external monitor on your eMac. Often this is what laptop owners do when the LCD in their computers burns out. You will have to buy a $19.00 cable to connect a VGA display to your eMac. The “Apple VGA Display Adapter” (PN M8639G/A) will plug into the Mini VGA port on the side of your eMac. Then you can attach any VGA display to the cable and start up your eMac. If all goes well you should see your old desktop on the external monitor. Ask around to some of your friends and see if they have an old CRT monitor in the basement. You would be surprised how many people are looking to get rid of old CRT displays.
See if that helps and start saving for a new system, If this works, your eMac should last you a few more years.
I want to do some film editing using my iBook but the screen is too small — 12″. If I get an Apple monitor and hook it up to my laptop using a USB or FireWire cable will I be able to use the monitor as my screen instead during the editing process?
The iBook is the only current Mac computer that will not support an Apple display. Apple displays use a DVI connection, and because the iBook only has VGA-out support, you will have to use a non-Apple display. The good news is that VGA displays are common and often cheaper than the Apple displays, just not as sharp. You will need an adapter to connect a VGA display to your iBook. The iBook uses a Mini VGA connection so if your iBook did not come with one you will need to buy an Apple “Mini VGA to VGA Adapter” (PN M8639G/A) as well. I would also recommend that you buy a USB keyboard and mouse to place in front of the new display. The iBook, by default, will only allow you to run a display at 1024 x 768 resolution, which is no bigger than the iBook’s screen. Also, the iBook only supports mirroring mode, so both displays will show the same images.
There is a free tool that will let you change this limitation on your iBook, but it is NOT supported by Apple in any way. Found here, Screen Spanning Doctor (SSD) will allow you to run a display up to a 1920 X 1200 resolution. Also you can run in spanning mode, which will split your desktop between the external display and the iBook’s display. Please use caution when using SSD and read through the support documentation found on the site.
I have a G4 867 MHz Powerbook and I’m trying to use a 17″ LCD cinema display with it but there doesn’t seem to be any way to get the desktop on the Powerbook over to the 17″ cinema. Is there a way to do this?
There are two ways to use external displays on PowerBooks: Mirroring and Spanning. Mirroring is when the laptop screen and the external screen show the same images. Spanning is when each display shows a different section of the desktop. Spanning is often used because it will give you the combination of both the built-in and external monitor’s screen space, allowing you to have more things open. You can even change which monitor your dock and menus are on.
To make adjustments to your displays go to the System Preferences and click on “Displays.” A window will open on each display if you are in Spanning mode. Look for a tab labeled “Arrangement” and click on it. There you will see icons representing your two displays. You can drag the icons around to change their orientation toward one another. To change what display has the menus and dock, just drag the bar at the top of one display icon to the other. This same “Arrangement” preference window will also have the checkbox that allows you to Mirror the two displays.
Technically there is a third way to use an external display with your PowerBook. If you close the lid on your running PowerBook and have an external keyboard and mouse connected you can press the space bar to wake the computer up. The PowerBook will then only use the external display and act like an expensive Mac mini.
I own a Blue & White G3 which has been upgraded with a 32MB Radeon video card. Can I use 17″ Studio Display LCD (with ADC) with this video card?
The defining question is what kind of connections does your video card have? All G3 B&W computers shipped with only a single VGA video port. VGA is an analog video signal and will not support any of Apple’s ADC-based displays. Because you upgraded your video card, there is a good chance you have an additional connection. Many ATI Radeon cards will include not only a VGA connection but also a DVI and S-Video connection. If you do in fact have a DVI video port then you are in luck. With the additional purchase of an Apple DVI to ADC adapter, you will be able to connect the 17″ Studio Display to your B&W.
The $99 Apple adapter is a good solution if you already own an ADC 17″ Studio Display. It is, however, a large added expense if you are looking to buy both. If you want to buy an LCD for your B&W you would be better off finding a DVI or VGA based unit. For close to the same price you could find an equally good new display and have fewer cables to deal with.