Jacob, our Mac Guru, and his team of Mac experts answer your questions about all things Macintosh. Go ahead, ask them anything! If it is a valuable question, it will be posted on the site here! Feel free to browse all of the previous questions.
Hello, I just purchased a Mac mini from your company about a week ago. I was wondering if you can please point me in the right direction as to where I can find bootcamp on my Mac that is running OSX Mavericks? I would like to install Windows natively so I can have both flavors in one machine. Any help and advice is appreciated.
There is an application that is supplied with your Mac mini inside of the Utilities folder. It’s called: Boot Camp Setup Assistant. That Application handles partitioning of the drive, and acquires the proper drivers and software for Windows to recognize the Mac Mini’s hardware profiles. You will, however, need a few things:
1. A retail or OEM Windows 7 or later installation DVD. A DVD supplied from another computer won’t work properly, as it’s hardware locked to the previous machine. This causes validation and activation errors.
2. A 4GB to 8GB USB flash drive. This is for temporary storage of the Boot Camp driver packages needed to get Windows to properly acknowledge the Mac Mini’s hardware.
This process actually makes a pretty impressive Windows machine, as it excludes the bloatware, and unwanted trial software that other PC manufacturers pre-install.
Hi, my main monitor port stopped working all of a sudden: went to black. When I plug my monitor (an Acer) into the other port, I have limited resolution capability (only 800 x 600). Does the port not working mean there is a card issue, or other larger problem?
The first thing you should attempt is to reset the Parameter Memory. Power down the unit. The, hold down four keys (Command, Option, the Letters P and R). Power it back on and keep these keys held down. Once you’ve heard three sets of chimes, release them. This should force the machine to re-create the video settings. Should that not bring the system back to normal, I’d recommend having an authorized service department take a look. It may require hardware service.
I have a G5 Power Mac with OS 10.4. I can’t find an update to Leopard 10.5. It has an X drive installed (that’s what its identified as in Finder). Can I install Windows XP on the X drive and keep the MAC OS on the other drive? I was given this computer and I am not at all familiar with MAC Hardware or Operating systems.
Those G5 towers were very stout machines. However, the chipset that they were built around (PowerPC G5) isn’t compatible with any current, or prior versions of Microsoft Windows. Later models of Apple Computers are built around the Intel architecture. Intel Macs do support both OS X and Microsoft Windows.
I would like to install Mac OS 9.2.2 on the New Mac Pro “soda can Mac” natively and install the original Mac OS X server software. How is this possible?
I have found a virtualization/emulation that’s reputed to be able to accomplish this. It allows you to run Mac OS 9 as an application. It’s not a bootable solution as MAC OS9 was only coded for PowerPC processors.
The PowerPC emulator is called SheepShaver. It’s not exactly reliable though. You would also need to bring your own Mac OS9 Retail installation DVD. I’d recommend reading through the support forums there to make sure it’s a good fit.
I bought my laptop in 2005 directly from Apple so I hope you don’t mind me taking time to ask your opinion. I’ve always liked doing business with you and would like to see what you have to say.
My PowerBook was working fine until July of 2012 when my girlfriend’s cat spilled part of a drink on it. It hasn’t worked since then — all it will do is power up, make the “happy Mac” sound, and then blink between a Mac face logo and a question mark.
I have rebooted it from a system disk but I cannot access the hard drive. I assume it’s a hard drive problem then, right?
There is a lot of information on that hard disk that I would really love to have: old photos, personal documents, music, etc, etc. Where do I go from here? Should I send it in to Apple (or you) to see what they say or is there another route I should consider?
Liquid contact is pretty much a computer’s most difficult scenarios. It tosses just about any semblance of reliability out. The machine may work fine once dried out, but then fail terribly in a month, or a few months. This aside, the issue you’re seeing now appears to be a complete drive failure (doesn’t show up in Disk Utility, or via target disk mode). It could be that the drive’s interface board shorted from the liquid contact. However, that’s merely speculation without having an opportunity to bench test the unit. Typically, when there is a failure such as this, and the data needs extraction, we would refer a user to a service like Drive Savers. The expense of recovery varies, depending on what level of heroics are required, and the quantity of data to be retrieved.
Do you recommend upgrading a functionally adequate MacBook Air running 10.6.8 to Mavericks? If so, does PowerMax have that upgrade available in the shops on some kind of disk so I can avoid using my stone-axe server at home? I actually have three Macs that need this, so any suggestions you could give on speeding things up would be heartily welcomed?
OS X 10.6 was the last version that was available only on DVD as an installation. Since then Apple has moved OS Upgrades to their App Store and dropped the upgrade price down to zero. The benefit is you don’t need to secure a DVD for installations. The downside: you need a fairly reliable network connection in order to acquire the very large installation file. If your home network isn’t quite up to the task, you may be able to take the MacBook Air to a location with a more robust network and pull the installer down at that point. You’ll need to be signed in with your AppleID in the App store before you can begin.
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Do you recommend and/or stock any sort of number pad to use with a MacBook 1.1 (vintage 2006-7)?
I have a 13-inch, late 2009 MacBook. Which SSD hard drive will fit my laptop?
The MacBook you have uses a fairly standard 2.5” SATA drive interface which makes upgrading to an SSD internal drive pretty easy. For reliability and compatibility, I suggest one of the Mercury Electra 3G SSD drives.
I have an older iMac that is running os 10.4.11 and I want to upgrade to snow leopard. I have the snow leopard CD but can’t insert into my iMac. How can I download this new operating system? I purchased an external cd driver but when I put the snow leopard cd in the driver it tells me to restart my computer to install the program. When I restart it, the wheel on the screen just turns and turns and does’’t restart my computer.
My computer is so fragmented and I need to defragment, but can’t run a utility program until I have snow leopard installed.
Place the 10.6 DVD in the drive, then power the computer all the way off. Once it’s off, hold down “Option” and power the unit back up. You should see two different icons, on for the DVD, and one for the Internal drive. Release Option, and click on the DVD. It should then boot up on the DVD.
Can you tell me how to delete my personal data from an old iPod – iPod 60GB Video – 5th Gen (Click Wheel)? I am wanting to get rid of it, but not until my personal data is removed.
You can plug the iPod into a computer that is running iTunes. While connected, go to the device section, and click the iPod icon. There should be a button labeled “Restore iPod”. If you click that button, it will erase the iPod, and lay down a fresh format. Once the iPod restarts, just disconnect it from the system.
I’ve got a Mac Pro tower (version 3,1 – early 2008). It shuts off after only a few seconds during boot up. It always starts, unlike some posts I’ve read, but never completes the boot up. I read a lot about this online and think I’ve tried every trick to come to the conclusion it is my power supply.
I’ve reset PRAM, punched two small buttons on the logic board, removed peripherals, graphics card, tried a different (known working) graphics card… etc.
Everything I’ve read seems to point to the power supply, although a few things suggest it might be the logic board. How can I tell for sure? Also, where can I buy a replacement power supply? A few shops I’ve called (in Boston) say they can swap it out, but can’t just sell me the part (I live in Oregon). I’ve looked online, and it looks like I’ll spend over $200 for this. I’d like to be sure before I spring for it.
It’s quite possible, that the power supply is having issues. Unfortunately, there really isn’t a viable “home test” to verify this. Ideally, it should get placed on the test bench and have the full diagnostic testing performed. This would prevent having to replace multiple components. It would also have the peace of mind of having the repairs warrantied. It’s also not easy to secure replacement parts outside of an authorized service provider that are certified to work with your machine. These points aside: we are also in Oregon. Our service location is here in Lake Oswego. If you’re in the area, we’d be happy to get the diagnostics completed and get to the root of the trouble for you. Please feel free to get in touch, with any additional questions. I can be reached at 888-769-7629, ext 202.
How do I make two internal hard drives act like one on a PowerMac G4 running OS 10.4.11?
I believe you’re referring to what’s called a “RAID” volume (Redundant Array of Independent Disks). While most versions of OS X are capable of running a RAID volume, the startup disk cannot be included in the RAID on a PowerMac G4 as it lacks the required hardware (RAID card). If you’re running three internal drives you can run disk Utility. Disk Utility has a RAID section. You can select the two non-startup drives and have them placed into an array. However, this does destroy any data currently on the drive. I’d recommend reading over the wikipedia article relating the the technology. Also note, some methods have risks due to lack of redundancy.
I’m helping out a friend who has a Early 2008 13″ MacBook (W88340KK0P2). The track pad stopped working. Since she is very dependent on this machine, and the fact that running Quicken (under Rosetta) is very important to her, I thought I’d get her set up with the newest replacement machine possible that is just like her old one. I’ll then look into fixing her original which could then become her warm spare.
I’ve got a bootable copy of her system using SuperDuper. She’s currently running 10.5.8 (9L30). The goal would be to simply restore her system to the replacement machine.
We’re looking at the newer 13″ MacBooks. I was thinking a mid 2009 would be a safe choice for the latest possible machine, since the original OS was 10.5.7. If I understand this article it seems like I shouldn’t have any problems since her current OS is newer than what the mid-2009 shipped with.
First thing, I’d pull the battery from the 2008 MacBook and see if the trackpad resumes working. I’ve had a number of calls lately resulting from a swollen battery pressing up against the trackpad mechanism. If the issue is a swollen battery then it may be as easy as replacing the battery and she can resume working again. As for a potential replacement unit, you can use your duplicate drive image. Instead of “duping” back to a new unit, use the Migration assistant. This way, you can go up to 10.6.8 and still retain rosetta functionality. An entire system duplicated may lack some of the support for newer hardware and video chipsets. I hope this has been helpful for you.
I put a National Geographic data disc in my G4 Apple Mac mini which I have been doing for years (to create maps for work) and on this occasion it made a really horrible noise (a high speed spinning noise). After a while it stopped and then I powered off. I tried to reboot a couple of time to no avail — I surmised because my disc was still inside.
I searched the web on how to eject and found “hold F2 and the reboot.” It worked and disc ejected. Now the Mac mini is running really slowly to the point that every command literally takes hours to respond. For example, the clock and desktop looks ok, but if I try to open a folder or document the wheel spins.
This has all the hallmarks of a failing optical drive or severely corrupted drive. If you have the correct system DVD set you can re-initialize the drive, reinstall, and see if that restores the functionality. I suspect, however, that the drive may require replacement — it’s not uncommon over the life of a machine, to require this. Drives are fairly inexpensive, and labor is usually thirty to forty-five minutes, plus system installation.
I am having issues with my MacBook Pro not sending a data to my external monitor from the mini display port to DVI. When it is plugged into the monitor, the monitor doesn’t read that there is anything connected. It will send data through an HDMI cable, but the picture quality is really awful (looks over-sharpened and color is off).
If you have the Mini Displayport to DVI adapter and DVI display connected, then proceed into the System Profiler. Check under “Graphics and Displays” and expand all the disclosure triangles. Does it show the adapter? Does it show an external display? That may help us pin down the issue.
Thinking about upgrading my drive on my Apple MacBook Pro (17-inch, Early 2009) and wondering if the drive from it could then be installed on my powerbook G4 (5,3). I am definitely going to upgrade the memory on the Pro as it only has 4G, and because I am running into constant requests to make more room on the HD, I am seriously considering upgrading the drive to a much larger one.
The MacBook Pro uses a fairly standard 2.5 inch SATA drive, and we have many upgrade options. It is recommended to have a service technician perform the drive swap however, as it’s nested a layer or two down inside the unit. The PowerBooks, however use a different type of drive connection, that would prevent compatibility of a direct transplant. If you upgraded your MacBook Pro’s drive, you could use the original in an external enclosure for additional storage, as well.
I’m just now purchasing a 13″ MacBook Pro w/Retina Display. I am trading in my current 27″ iMac.
I have a WiFi network. I also have ethernet cables. I DO NOT have firewire cables.
Using Migration Assistant, which is the easiest and fastest “connection” for me to use to migrate data from my existing iMac to the new MacBook?
Apple has provided several methods for accurately migrating data from an existing machine to a new machine. The fastest would be a direct machine to machine transfer via firewire. You can also migrate from an existing Time Machine backup drive with either a USB or firewire cable. It is possible to also migrate through your local network — this can be done wirelessly or through Ethernet. This method is slower and I recommend beginning the migration late in the day or evening and letting it progress overnight.
Additional Note: The Migration Assistant will provide you with a time estimate during the transfer. This estimate is just that, it’s merely a guess, and isn’t accurate.
My logic board died on me last night, but got someone that wants to buy it from me for parts. Is it possible for me to format my hard drive without a working logic board? Model: A1286 MacBook Pro 2011! Thanks
Sent from my iPhone
Jacob is currently wearing many hats here at PowerMax, so I thought I may be able to address your question. A logic board failure often makes the computer unusable. This makes re-formatting a drive difficult. Of the times this has occurred to clients, I’ve recommended physically pulling the drive. It’s fairly accessible, and you can place the drive into an external enclosure. In most cases, when a logic board goes, the data on the drive is still intact. This way you have access to the data when you connect the enclosure to another computer. This also safeguards that your personal data, and information remains in your possession. Let me know if you need any additional help on this.
I need an new optical drive in my mid 2010 27″ i7 imac. … QP0331XHDNR
I am curious about adding a SSD while the thing is open.
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My iphoto 6.0.6 is acting strangely of late. When viewing the thumbnails & clicking the picture I want to appear in the lower window pane sometimes the picture is not there. There is only this gray area with an explanation mark in the center with a border that looks like perforations with rounded corners. This is becoming more prevalent lately with some of my later pictures although not all of them, what’s going on? Sometimes we get a message to optimize iphoto and rebuild the thumbnails, is this what will correct our problem. It is extremely frustrating to not be able to view, correct, export my pictures. Help!
Good morning Terry,
Jacob’s currently wearing many hats here at PowerMax, so I thought that I may be able to address your question.
iPhoto creates thumbnail images of your original photographs, to improve handling performance. It’s possible, that these thumbnails are becoming corrupted over time, causing them not to display properly. Have you checked the original images, to make sure they are not corrupted as well? If the original images are intact, then rebuilding the thumbnails would be beneficial. Are you noticing any other anomalous behavior from this machine as well? You may want to run disk utility, and verify the status of the drive as well. Should you run into questions, I can be reached at 888-769-7629, ext 202.
Good morning Bill,
Jacob’s currently wearing many hats here at PowerMax, so I thought perhaps I may be able to address your question.
The summation of my question is this: is there a way to monitor Safari’s (version 6.0.x) Activity in such a way as to download items in the page, such as Youtube videos?
The extended version has some history (and a cool tip, I think), as follows…
I found a podcast a few years ago by a young fellow named Heath Mound, who called himself the Macster. He showed how one could download videos that were being played on pages such as YouTube, and I summarized the instructions for my family (see below *****), and got it to work. I am not a web page writer (or whatever that would be called by those who are), so I know only a little about this stuff, but this seems to have only been available in Safari versions prior to the one I have now (6.0.2), or possibly this changed between OS 10.6 and 10.7.
The upshot is this: The “Activity” window is no longer available, but there is a “Develop” menu and “Web Inspector.” I could navigate neither to find what I was looking for, but does this possibly hide the key to the lost ability?
To Download Youtube videos in Safari (Lion):
1. Install Perian (it’s free & you only need to do this the first time). It works as a plug-in for QuickTime.
a. Website: http://perian.org/
b. Open the downloaded disc image & install
c. Perian will operate when you open QuickTime, and shows up in System Preferences. Once installed, you never have to mess with it again (it may occasionally update).
2. Access YouTube. Because this process is fairly attention-taking, CLOSE ALL OTHER SAFARI WINDOWS & TABS!
a. Before you play the video, go to the Window menu (in the Safari toolbar) & click “Activity.” This will open a window that you’ll want to see as the video begins to play. Place it beside the active Safari window (half-screen each will work best).
b. Begin playing the video. You will see many things happen in the Activity window
- Look on the far right side of the window for the largest file size (usually greater than 5 MB; it varies in proportion to the length of the video).
c. This part is different in Lion, as you can’t get the contextual menu if you “right-click” any of these links:
-click the largest file-sized link once to highlight it (preferably while it’s still loading), then
-Hold down the “option” key and double-click it (preferably while it’s still loading), then
-Look wherever Downloads are saved to see if there is any activity with a file named “video player,” “get_video,” or anything like that: this should be the video. This can be in the new Download button in Safari, or glance in the Downloads file in your dock.
-If nothing is happening, you have to experiment with the functional keys (fn, control, option, command) until you get results. That’s what I did.
3. Convert the video.
a. Once the file has finished downloading (it should have the extension “.flv”), you have to tell the system what application to open it with. (You might want to rename the video file to something recognizable at this point.) Now you can “right-click” it, and select “Open with…”
b. Check the box that says “Always open this file with this application,” (or similar), then locate QuickTime Player in the list of applications and select it.
c. By this point, you should be looking at the video in QuickTime. There are two options from here: Share or Export. Share has its own button in the QT toolbar; Export is under File. Either choice will probably only have limited options for how the video is converted.
1. “Export” will simply create a file that you can work with further, if you want to.
2. “Share” will convert the video & place it wherever you’ve selected.
d. You can delete the original file, and repeat this process from step 2 for another video.
Good afternoon Bill,
Jacob’s currently wearing many hats here at PowerMax, so I thought perhaps I could address your question. I’ve heard of this method of acquiring Flash video, and converting it over to a Quicktime/iTunes compatible format prior. The method outlined can work, however when YouTube changes formats, it would most likely have to be revised. I have however run into a number of specific applications that handle downloading and converting at the same time, and if maintained, would allow for YouTube updates.
TubeSock, is one of the more popular options, as it’s versatile, and easy to configure.
There are a large number of freeware, and shareware software titles available that have similar capabilities as well.
MacX YouTube Downloader received good reviews as well.
I believe those options may save steps, and give you more control of the file output options as well.
888-769-7629, ext 202
Hey — I have a 19″ LG monitor hooked up to an older model Mac Mini for about 5 years and the monitor is constantly flashing. I don’t know if the problem is the monitor or the Mac. I wanted to bring the monitor into your shop, hook it up to a Mac and see which it is. If it’s the monitor, then I’ll buy a new one from you guys. If it’s the Mac, I’ll pony up for a laptop.
Let me know what you think — thanks!
Good morning Randall,
Jacob’s currently wearing many hats here at PowerMax, so I thought that perhaps I may be able to address your question.
The display flashing could be related to a few different things. It could be an issue with the power supply within the display, The power source (power strip, outlet) or it could be related to the Mac Mini itself. Testing the display on another machine would be one good option, or testing the Mac mini with a different display may also point to the source of the trouble. Do you have someone that you know that has a notebook with a compatible display connection? That would save packing up the display for transport, and provide some of the testing needed. At present, we’re open Monday through friday, 8:00am to 5:30pm.
888-769-7629 xt 202
I’m looking to convert my iTunes Library from AIFF files to Apple Lossless as I understand there is no loss in Sound Quality and that the Lossless files are roughly 50% smaller. I tried a sample on an album by using “Select All” then Right Clicking on the highlighted areas, then “Convert To Apple Lossless” and this does the job. The only problem is that it leaves the original files in tact (does not delete them) and since I have over 6,000 songs having to manually delete the AIFF files one by one would be a major pain, so is there a way to covert without retaining the AIFF files?
To be honest, iTunes default behavior is a little too cautious. The conversion process is designed to be non-destructive. You may possibly be able to craft an automator script in OSX 10, that would convert a file, then move the original to a different folder that you can toss once the process is completed. That may shave some work time off of the conversion process.
I normally leave my iMac on 27/7; but it does go to sleep during most of each 24 hour period. Recently, I have noticed that the iMac will not wake up from sleep in the mornings when I want to check for emails. In fact, it appears dead. I cannot hold down the button at the rear to get it started. I must first pull the plug and wait for a few seconds before plugging the power cord back in. Then I can press the power button at the rear and it comes up. However, a meaasge appears saying that the Mac was not properly shut down.The iMac does not feel hot, only slightly warm along the top. It appears that I have a power supply problem. What do you suggest?
While it may indeed be an issue with the power supply unit within the iMac, it may also be that your PRAM/PMU battery has stopped holding a charge. This can cause issues like failing to wake from sleep, forgetting what the time/date is if the unit’s unplugged, and even failures to start up normally. It would be a low-cost option to test prior to having a power supply replaced. Should a battery not resolve the issue, then the only other real option would be to check it into an authorized service center to have the unit bench-tested.
Okay, last night I guess I loaded some shady applicationd onto my 2008 iMac. I restarted it, and when the computer loaded up again, the mouse was frozen in the corner but there was no LED light coming off from the keyboard or mouse. I connected my iPod with the USB cable and it wasn’t charging. I then put in a disk (if I can ever get it out again) to see if the computer was working other than the USB ports, and yes, the computer works otherwise. So I’m assuming that my iMac USB ports are frozen, and I’ve restarted numerous times. No luck. Do you have any advice?
Jacob’s currently wearing many hats here at PowerMax, so I thought that perhaps I may be able to address your question directly.
Since the USB system bus is hardware controlled, it’s unlikely that a piece of software has rendered it inoperable. I’d try first, an alternative mouse. Perhaps borrow one from a friend and see if it lights up. I’d also try bypassing the keyboard, and connecting directly to the iMac, to make sure that the USB port on the keyboard hasn’t failed. Should none of these resolve the issue, I’d recommend having an Apple Hardware specialist take a look at the unit.
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The 30″ Apple cinema display uses a version of DVI called “Dual Link” that provides the bandwidth needed to support such large resolution. To connect the current model Mac mini with your current display, all you need is a Mini Displayport to Dual link DVI adapter.
The display settings should auto-configure as the adapter and display are discovered by the Mac mini.
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I can not get the optical drive in my iMac to accept a CD or DVD. I ejected the CD I was just using and now the drive won’t accept anything. I have an iMac Intel Core i3.
I accidentally disconnected a LaCie external hard drive from my iMac (os 10.7) and got a warning that it wasn’t disconnected properly. It sporadically reappeared on my desktop for the next couple days but it hasn’t shown up for work for the last few days. Any idea what’s going on and how I can get LaCie back in action.
I just bought a new 27″ iMac and I want to hook it up to my digital projector that has a DB-15 VGA port. What adapter is needed to connect the iMac to my projector?
The 27″ iMac can use the Apple Mini-Displayport to VGA video adapter for use with VGA compatible projectors. You will also need a VGA display cable (see image below). Now, VGA may not always pass through plug-and-play information from the projector, so you might have to go through some configuration manually.
To do that, go to System Preferences > Displays > Detect Displays.
I hope this has been helpful for you.
I’m trying to download a movie from iTunes but I keep getting a message that my startup disk is full and that I should delete files to create room.
What is a startup disk? Read More »
In the last month, for some unexplained reason, my one year old 21.5-inch iMac will get a RAM warning (three beeps, pause, three beeps). Then, sometimes it is a kernel panic. This happens about three or more times a week. I took it in to Apple and they said they could not duplicate the problem I was having and handed it back to me. The iMac is under warranty till 2014.
So what next?
You are correct in that it’s indicating a RAM error. Three beeps, pause, etc. Now, often a RAM issue can be resolved by re-seating the RAM. This is because it may have been nudged around during shipping. To re-seat, you can remove and then re-insert the RAM.
I would also check that the environmental conditions in the location where it’s reporting the error have adequate airflow to keep the machine cool and ideally, not in prolonged direct sunlight. In cases were a RAM card has failed, it usually is a permanent failure. This scenario however, suggests that perhaps the card is not completely seated.
I hope this information has been helpful for you.
Ask Jacob Team
Please let me know how to transfer data from a MacBook Pro to an external hard drive as per the following scenarios:
1. MacBook Pro’s (mid 2009 model) USB ports are not working but it has Bluetooth capability.
2. I have a new 500 GB Iomega external hard drive that is not yet formated for either a Mac or PC.
a. Can this external hard drive be partitioned in 2 sections of 250 GB each? If so, how would I partition it?
b. Can one partition of 250 GB be formatted for a PC and the other 250 GB be formatted for a Mac, so that one external hard drive can be used for both PC and Mac files transfers. How would I do this?
Thank you in advance for your answers.
If your new Iomega external drive has both USB and FireWire ports, you can use a FireWire cable to perform the partitioning and backup. If your hard drive only has a USB port and the USB ports are disabled on your Macbook Pro, you may have to find an alternative way to transfer, such as going machine to machine, using FireWire Target Disk Mode.
As for Partitioning the drive, there is an application, inside the Utilities folder on your Mac, called Disk Utility. Disk Utility has the ability to help you format your hard drive and partitions. For Windows machines, the format is NTFS. For Macs, it’s Mac OS Extended (Journaled). Your Mac can view both partitions, however the Windows machine can only see the NTFS partition.
I hope this information has been helpful.
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Over the last few months my MacBook has developed the “habit” of the fan periodically running at high speed. I went online to see if I could get any help for the problem there and it seems to be a common problem for a number of people. On one forum I found the advice to “reset the System Management Controller” which, another person on the forum said worked for them. Mine looks as though I have a removable battery but I’ve never taken it out before so I have several questions:
- How do I know if I have a battery that I can remove myself?
- Is there any trick to removing it? (It looks like a press and slide kind of deal, like the back of a cell phone)
- Is “resetting the System Management Controller” the solution to my fan problem?
- If not, can you tell me what would be?
The System Management Controller, is a componant that manages functions like, sleep, wake from sleep, thermal controls, remembers the time, as well as volume settings. In some cases, the SMC may become corrupted and begin to exhibit unusual behavior. On the bottom of your computer, there is a coin-screw that can be turned 90 degrees. This releases the battery. It shouldn’t require any real amount of force to remove. Once the battery is out, you can perform the SMC reset process.
To reset the System Management Controller for Laptops:
- Shut down the computer
- Disconnect the MagSafe power adapter from the computer- if it’s connected.
- Remove the battery
- Press and hold the power button for 5 seconds
- Release the power button
- Reconnect the battery and MagSafe power adapter
- Press the power button to turn on the computer
The SMC reset may indeed provide the solution but keep in mind, certain applications generate more heat and will kick the fan up. With my MacBook, I’ve noticed that any web-page running flash for more than a few minutes kicks the fan up.
I hope this information is helpful for you.
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I have 400 to 800 FireWire cables from the last time but forgot how to specifically do it.
Any suggestions appreciated.
The new MacBook Air that you’re receiving has an application that provides for “Over the Air” network-based migration, as the MacBook Air does not have a FireWire port included. However, in order to use the “over the air” method, the originating machine must have an operating system of 10.4.6 or later. Because your iBook G4 has 10.3.9 installed, the automatic migration isn’t an option.
Should I have this same situation, I’d use a manual migration method. Using a USB external drive, back up your data from your home folder. Then go through the standard setup process with your MacBook Air. Once your account is created on the new machine, you can connect your external drive and move the backed up data to the correct folders. It’s not exactly seamless or automatic, but it can provide a safe way to move your data and build a nice, stable system.
Ask Jacob Team
I just hooked up a Apple Time Capsule to my Cable Modem and I want to use it as a wireless router for my house. The amber light keeps flashing, even though everything is set-up and I am connected on my new wireless network. The airport utility is saying that my Apple Time Capsule airport device does not have a valid IP address. What can I do? I want to fix the problem so everything runs like it is supposed to and I have the green light on the Time Capsule instead of the amber flashing light.
Safari has been quitting on me and iChat has been having some trouble staying connected. Any reason why this would happen?
My external hard drive no longer comes up on my Mac when I plug it in and I’m afraid I’ve lost all of my backed-up files forever. Since I’ve only used it on a Mac, I’m not sure where to go where they’ll plug it into a Mac for diagnostic service. I don’t want it to get plugged into a PC and reformatted and then I’m really out of luck.
Any advice on what company to use for this? I’ve heard this type of service can be very expensive. Thanks in advance!
Well most Apple Authorized service centers can help you. You can find the nearest location here.
You can also try and repair the drive with Disk Utility, found in the OS X Utilities folder which, is in the Applications folder. If Disk Utility fails to see the drive, you can try removing the internal drive from the external drive case. It could be that your external hard drive is OK but the drive enclosure has failed. To test this, you can connect the raw drive to your computer with a Newer Universal Drive USB 3.0 Adaptor.
As a side note, you said “I’m afraid I’ve lost all of my backed-up files forever” which would indicate this drive was your backup drive. In a good backup process you need to have at least two copies of every important file. It is not backing up if you move a file to an external hard drive and then delete it off of your internal hard drive. That is not backing up, just changing locations. Any hard drive will fail eventually. So to be backed up, please make sure you have at least two copies and preferably three copies with one being at a different location than your computer.
You may also view this Ask Jacob post for my recommendation on a back up drive.
I am attempting to migrate from PC to Mac.
Do you know of a seamless/easy way to import all your Outlook2007 Contacts/Categories without re-typing/formatting many hundreds of MBs?
CME [Convert My Email dot com] claims to be able to import Outlook2007 email folders, archives, contacts (including categories), calendar etc. into Entourage 2008.
When I tried it, just as their program attempted to import the translated data Entourage crashed.
I am continuing to work with them by running their debugging program and sending logs.
Is there an easier way?
What do you recommend for all those Mac converts out there who can’t face re-typing their Outlook data?
It is sometimes nice to use a third party to be the intermediary in the transfer process. I like to use Gmail for this. Here is Microsoft’s pages on how to get your contacts loaded into a free Gmail account:
Then in your Mac’s Address Book Application, go to the Preferences. Under the Accounts tab mark the checkbox for “Synchronize with Google” and enter the credentials for your Gmail account. This will let you transfer your Outlook contacts over the network. Additionally, syncing them with your Gmail account will make sure that they are always available to you. You can view them via the internet in your Gmail account, they will be constantly backed up from your Mac, and easy to export out of Gmail if you need to.
I am thinking of getting a new iMac. Can I do the data ‘Mind-meld’ from my aluminum G4 PowerPC to an Intel chip iMac?
Yes, you can do a Migration Assistant move from a PowerPC based Mac to an Intel Mac. Just make sure you have, or buy a firewire cable to connect the two Macs. Most times, it will take a Firewire 400 to Firewire 800 adapter cable. The Belkin Firewire Cable is a good one.
Well, my trusty 2.66GHz MacPro failed two months out of AppleCare warranty. Right before it failed, the screen image developed a very faint herringbone pattern of thin horizontal yellow rectangles which look to be about 1/4″ x 1/16″ rectangles. The computer gets through the chime and through the Apple screen and to the blue screen with mouse pointer in the upper left. The drive is being accessed, but nothing happens on-screen though the cursor does track mouse movements while leaving a fixed mouse pointer at the original position. The yellow pattern is consistent through multiple reboot attempts. I pulled the drive and hooked it up to my Intel Mac mini and it mounts to the desktop and I can see all files in the Finder.
In the past, the video card failed and was replaced under AppleCare. I tried the usual tricks individually with reboot attempts between checks (checked 3v lithium battery, PRAM reset, pulled extra memory, reseated video card, move drive to different bay, disconnected all external devices except keyboard/mouse/DVI. Same result on all counts. Checked for dust build-up on memory and video heatsinks. Not much there. I installed a brand new WD Caviar Black drive and tried to install the OS (Discs supplied with MacPro) on a new drive. It makes it through installation Disc 1 to the RESTART button. When it reboots, I get a grey screen in multiple languages saying to restart. Can’t make it to Disc 2. Tried re-installing with drive in 2nd bay, same thing.
- 2.66GHZ Dual Xeon Macpro 2006-7 unit bought from Power max
- 4GB memory installed (1GB x 4)
- Mac OS 10.5.8
- Monitor: Dell Ultrasharp 24″ using DVI
- Boot Drive: 7200.10 Seagate 750GB
I apologize for the long e-mail. It is frustrating when stuff breaks right out of the warranty period.
I would appreciate any advice on further diagnostics and options for repair.
The symptoms you’re describing do seem to relate to a video card failure. The Kernel Panic on restart may also point to a video card failing to identify correctly. How long ago was the video card replaced? If it was recent enough, it would be worth checking with the repair center that performed the replacement. In some cases, the repair on the video card, has it’s own warranty, and may qualify you for a replacement. I hope this information has been helpful for you.
Our Apple laptop (a Mac OS X, processor 1.67 GHz Power PC G4; memory 1.5 DDR SDRAM) has lost sound and we cannot figure our how to restore it.
Can you help?
With the G4/1.67, there were two different models. One has a standard analog audio port (headphone jack), and one has the Combination Analog/Digital Optical port. It’s possible that the the sensor that detects a headphone connection may be tripped. This would cause the notebook’s speakers to be silent. One way to determine this, is to plug in headphones, and see if you get sound through those. Also, if you go into System Preferences, then to Sound, and check “Output”. It should list which devices are providing sound output. Does it list “Line out/headphones” or internal speakers? Let me know what the results of these are, and we can go to the next step of restoring sound for you.
I reluctantly upgraded from Tiger to Snow Leopard recently and discovered, to my dismay, that my HP 940-C will not print now. I have a Mac Pro which had the original 160 HD with Tiger on it. I installed a 500 GB Western Digital HD drive and cloned the drive as you suggested with Carbon Copy Cloner (thanks by the way!) and installed Snow Leopard on the new drive. After discovering that Snow Leopard didn’t have a fix to make my printer work as it should, I went to system prefs and rebooted from my original drive which has Tiger installed and I was able to print as usual. Is there a fix to make Snow Leopard functional with my older printer? I went to Apple website & downloaded what I thought might be a printer driver solution that still doesn’t work. If there is a simple solution I would appreciate a tech tip.
I checked through Hewlett Packard’s website, and it appears that the driver for that printer has not been updated since march of 2005. Most likely, the correct driver for 10.6 is included in the 10.6 DVD install. I would recommend going to System Preferences, then to Print & Fax, and delete the current printer, and re-add it. When re-adding the printer, check carefully under the driver selection, and see if the 940C driver is listed. if it is, select that driver, or one for “The 940 series”, then perform a test print. If this driver is not listed, it’s possible that it may be on the DVD for Snow Leopard, under “Optional Installs”(does not require reinstallation).
I have a G5 tower (the silver one) with dual 2 gig core. Can I load and partition OS 9.2.3 & 10.4.0 & 10.5.8? Or just OS 9.2.3 & 10.4.0?
The G5 PowerMac, supports OS X up to 10.5.8, with support for Classic (OS 9 virtualized). Partitioning the drive, most likely will just limit your storage options, as that unit will not boot in OS 9. I hope this information has been useful for you.
I have an older G3 Mac 13″ laptop that I am having issues with the display. If I open my display up too far the lights will go out on it. I then have to close the laptop, and wait for it to go back to sleep, and then open it very slowly to have the lights come on the display. And even then it does not do it all the time. Now once the lights do come on, the display can not be fully opened for a while (What I like to call a warm up) once it is warmed up I can then open it all the way, Is this a Videocard issue or the Ribbon for the display issue?
The G3 and G4 notebook computers have several cables that pass through the hinge mechanism. Repeated opening and closing of the hinge may have worn one of the cables that passes power through to the backlight of the display. Depending on what model of notebook, the cables may be considered as part of the display unit, and should be replaced.
I hope this information has been helpful for you.
I recently got gifted !! a Dual G5 1.8 with 2G RAM. It has 10.5.8 on it. Geekbench score of high 1400′s to low 1500′s. I installed 10.4.11 on an external firewire drive. 10.4.11 gets scores of around 1687.
One of the obvious pluses to 10.5.8 is Time Machine. But, that will not work for me as I don’t have any discs big enough to back up to. I end up using rsync to backup stuff like Music to one drive, pictures to another, etc…..
So, my question is this. If I wipe the 10.5.8 I will have no means of going back to it. I like 10.4.11 but it is beginning to seem like more and more software will not work with 10.4.11. Example, Evernote!
What do you think? Get the performance boost that 10.4.11 seems to offer on this machine or stick with 10.5.8 that I do not have an install disc for….
What a nice gift! 10.4.11 has been a really good system, but is beginning to lose some support from newer software. 10.5 shouldn’t be much slower, unless there are underlying issues. How much RAM do you have? Do you have one, or two internal drives? What kinds of software do you plan on using with this G5? These are all questions that must be considered when it comes to performance and compatibility.
This is the second apple mouse I have bought for my Mac. The problem with both of them is they will not scroll down, just up using the little scrolling button on top. What gives?
Thanks for any help you might offer. The old one was wireless this newer one is USB – I disconnected it and plugged it back in but nothing helped.
This is actually a dirty scroll ball issue. There is not a problem with your computer or the mouse hardware. You just need to clean the dirt out of the scroll sensor. This is so common that Apple made a demo video on how best to clean your mouse.
How and where is your stolen Mac database maintained? If my Mac were stolen how would I get my serial number to show up in your stolen Mac database?
When you complete the web form on our stolen Mac page we generate a report and the information is then verified and committed to our database.
I have a 3rd generation 32GB iPod Touch and a Mac Mini G4 1.5 GHz, the last G4 model produced. It’s currently running the latest version of Leopard, and I’ve been using it with a USB hub. I also have a “3rd generation” iPod Touch 8GB, but I am aware that it’s actually got the same hardware as a 2nd gen model.
The 8GB unit works perfectly with my G4 Mini. But iTunes refuses to recognize my 32GB Touch. If I look in System Profiler, it sees that there’s an iPod connected to the USB port, but nothing else happens.
I don’t get any error messages, either.
I tried bypassing the USB hub and connecting the 32GB unit directly to one of the Mini’s two USB ports, but the exact same thing happened. I was able to successfully sync the 32GB model with a Windows machine, so I don’t believe that the iPod is defective.
Is the 32GB unit simply incompatible with the G4 Mini, or do you have any advice for me?
I can only assume that your system has iTunes 9 installed on it and meets the system requirements:
• iTunes 9 or later
• Mac OS X version 10.4.11 or later; Mac OS X version 10.5 or later is required to play an iTunes LP or iTunes Extras
• QuickTime 7.6 or later
• Support for HE-AAC requires QuickTime 7.6.4 and Mac OS X version 10.5 or later
• Safari 4.0.3 or later
• 200MB of available disk space
Perhaps you can find a local Apple reseller, and see if their version of iTunes on a demo Mac will see the iPod. That will tell you that you if it is an iPod or Mac Mini issue. Let me know what you find out.
I have bought one of the original tangerine 300 Clamshells so that my grandchildren can play some of the old Mac programmes I have such as “Grandma and Me”. However, the laptop has OSX installed and will not accept the programme because I cannot turn it on to Classic mode without installing OS9.
Is it possible to install OS9 alongside the current operating system or would I have to do a clean install and thus lose all the programmes which are already on the Clamshell?
OS 9 can be installed onto the same hard-drive as OS X. OS 9 does not share any files with OS X so there is not an issue with files being over written.
One thing to keep in mind though, after you install OS 9, the computer will start booting up into OS 9. You will need to use the Startup Disk control panel under the Apple menu to switch back to OS X. Depending on the OS version installed, you may need to run software update to get a version of that control panel that will let you boot OS X.
Also, some later grey labeled OS 9 Installers, could install OS 9 Classic through a OS X installer, making it very simple to upgrade.
Hope that helps,
What a great service to answer Mac questions, thanks!
I’m the defacto IT guy at our small private school and we’re thinking about getting a Mac mini server with Snow Leopard to act as our new server and also our school secretary’s main computer.
Would it be able to act as both? Would that be wise?
We don’t have a lot of money to work with, so we thought it’d be nice to kill two birds with one stone. Her Mac is 7 years old and our server is really old. Any thoughts and suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
It is possible to have a user account on the same Mac mini server system that is acting as a server.
This is not a recommended for heavy used servers or when the user is a novice. If the user decides to turn off the computer for the weekend or change network connections, your server will be offline. However, if you do want to dual purpose the system, just make sure that you create a standard user account and not an Administrator account on that system, this will prevent important settings from being changed.
I just got a refurbished iMac G5 from PowerMax which works great. When I tried to transfer files over a firewire connection from my old G4 to my new(ish) G5, however, I got the message that the G4 didn’t have system 10 on it.
I know that’s not true: it has OS 10.5.8 on it, and is set up to start up using that system (so it is not a dual boot problem). It tells me the firewire connection has been made, and I am following the Setup Assistant directions to the letter.
What could be the problem here? Would the fact that the G5 only has 10.4 and the G4 has 10.5.8 be problematic? Or is it something else?
I have a special fondness for the G5 iMac. One thing to check is to see if you have two drives installed in your old G4. It could be that you have a old drive or data drive installed as the Master drive in your G4. If that is the case, you may need to remove the none-booting drive and then try again. 9 times out of 10 that is the problem when you see that error.
I have a 1GHZ dual processor and the new HD I purchased from your company will not boot! I removed the jumper and there are no other drives attached. The machine sold to me is a PATA/8MB cash WD WD2500AAJB 250 GB drive.
I unpacked it and hooked it up with the case open but I can not seem to mount the drive. I used a OSX 10:3 system disk and tried to reformat the disk with the system software but I just can not see the icon-it does not mount. I am ready to return the HD for another one if we can not resolve this issue promptly.
If you have a Mirrored Drive Door G4 PowerMac, all drives in the Mac need to be pinned as “Cable Select.” Also, see if the drive can be viewed in the Finder window as it’s possible in OS X to have drives mounted but not visible on your desktop. That setting is adjustable in the Finder preferences.
If you continue to have problems you can certainly contact your sales person for direct customer support.
I ordered a Mac Mini and am trying to set it up to no avail. I do not have the Apple monitor.
I did go to the Apple store to purchase a VGA adapter. However I get nothing. I made sure it is plugged into the back of the Mini correctly. I am also having a problem getting the disc out. I can feel it spinning but it won’t eject it.
You can force the disc out of the drive by holding down the main button of a USB mouse when the Mac mini is starting up. That should force out the disc. Most VGA displays should work on the Mac Mini.
What model display are you using that will not work? It is OK to use a PC display on a Mac, almost all of the modern PC displays will have no problem working with any Mac, even refurbished Mac minis.
I recently replaced my refurbished MacBook Pro battery and the computer shuts down about one minute after unplugging it from the power supply. Pressing the battery check button on back of laptop indicates full charge with all green led lights lit.
Plugging in the power supply and pushing the on button reboots the computer with chime sounding and the web paige I was on reappears and all is good.
What to do?
It sounds as if your battery is not working properly. Either is is not truly being charged fully and it is misreporting that info, or it is discharging fully in seconds not hours. Is the battery an Apple branded battery or can you contact the manufacturer to see about getting a replacement unit?
I do not think it is a problem with your refurbished MacBook Pro. I would suspect a error in the battery itself.
Hope this helps
I have a G5 Dual 2.7Ghz PowerPC running 10.4.11, and I have the original OS software discs that came with the tower, 10.4.2 I want to install 10.4.2 on an external drive so that occasionally I can boot up some software that will only run on that older OS.
When I try to do this install, I keep getting into a “do loop” where the install disk wants to restart the computer and then when it does, it says it cannot “install the software on this computer”, I can’t seem to be able to perform this simple install without restarting the computer and then I go around again. Please help Mr. Wizard.
Most Dual 2.7 G5s shipped with 10.4.0 and did not have 10.4.2 DVDs. Those 10.4.2 DVDs were included in the generation after that model. However, if you are sure that they work on your G5, It may just be a problem with the destination drive. If you have a second internal drive you could experiment with, try installing 10.4.2 on that drive.
Then use Carbon Copy Cloner to clone that fresh install onto your external hard drive. Dont forget to format the External Drive as a Mac OS Extended (Journaled) volume with a Apple Partition Map. Those are often the default settings when using Disk Utility to partition a drive.
I have an old 12 inch 1.33GHz PowerBook with maxed out 1.25GB ram and a 5400rpm 80GB hard drive. I love this thing as it was the first computer I bought and cant fathom selling it (especially since it runs OS 9 baby! BAM!), but it is showing its age.
I’m wondering what I can do to increase it’s power to at least watch YouTube videos or video podcasts without jittery playback. Right now I simply use it for email, project timing and anything non video related (iCal, iTunes, web articles, etc), which it does fine (also a great companion on road trips) but would like to increase it’s usefulness with better video and Flash performance.
Would it be worth it to upgrade the HD to a SSD? Is there a way to upgrade the graphics card? Anything else I might want to try? Any help is greatly appreciated.
The only thing left for you to do to that little well-used Mac would be upgrade the hard drive to a faster unit, but even that will not change your Flash video playback performance.
To get a performance upgrade for YouTube, you are going to have to move to an Intel Mac. That does not mean you need to retire your PowerBook, but it is doing all that it can now.
I have a Mac running 10.5.6 software. It will not recognize my Sony video camera anymore even though I have used it several times before.
It is connected via firewire 800/400 & I have tried all I can think of except a new firewire. I unplugged everything including power and firewire & I also reinstalled the software and still nothing in finder. I have seen people complaining of these issues online and unfortunately I can’t afford Apple support. Any help would be appreciated.
Have you tried updating to 10.5.8, just to see if that fixes the issue? Beyond that, you should see if the camera shows up in other applications. For instance, on Apple computers the iChat application lets you use FireWire camcorders as an iSight camera.
Open iChat and see if the Video/Audio tab shows the camera as a functioning source. If it is working in iChat, then the camera is fine and you need to focus on the software you are using to edit it. Are you using iMovie or another program? It could be that any none Apple software did not get updated to work with newer versions of the Mac OS. In that case you may want to update that software or switch to iMovie.
Hope that helps,
Hello again! Thanks for advice last time – it worked! I’ve downloaded iOS 4.0 onto my phone but now my touch sensitivity has gone down. For instance, I’m tying this message on my iPhone and I’ve had to press several keys multiple times because they went unregistered on the phone. It also freezes up on the unlock screen and won’t let me slide to unlock it.
This has been a problem since the software came out – and while I know it hasn’t been long it’s a nuisance! Should I take it into the “genius” bar or do you know what the problem could be. The screen is clean as well if that has any relation.
Thanks for your help in advance!
I have experienced slow performance like you described on my wife’s iPhone 3G. I did not have any problems with the 3GS I had been using. Many iPhone 3G users have had problems with the IOS 4.0 update bogging down the phone, and I could imagine that some 3GS iPhones could have similar problems.
From what I have read – and found through testing – you can fix these issues by erasing the iPhone and restoring it to factory defaults. Instead of restoring from your backup, you set it up as a new iPhone. It will take some time to get all the settings back to what you are used to, but in many cases this will fix the problem. If it does not fix your performance, you could format again and then restore from the backup.
I hope this helps, let me know how it works for you.
I am pretty new to the Mac world. I recently purchased a iMac 21.5 and it runs OS X 10.6.2.
I would like to buy a Mac laptop (and don’t want to spend alot of money) and would use it for web browsing, word processing, and I would like to run Parallels Desktop on it so I can have a Windows XP (now) and Windows Vista (future) virtual.
Are any models of the G4 laptop line viable for how I want to use a laptop?
I have the opportunity to buy a 13inch MacBook for $100. It is only a couple of years old but the screen is damaged. You can see only about a 1/4th of what’s on the screen in the upper left corner. A friend’s son had it at school and his friend threw a pop can at him, accidently hitting the monitor.
What would it cost to replace the screen? Would the cost be less if third party parts were used? If it were to be fixed at a reasonable cost, would I be able to sync it up with my G5 desktop?
Would I be able to get a third party power supply?
Thanks for helping me out.
It is a good purchase for $100 because you can use it with an external display and keyboard if you do not get the screen fixed. It is like buying a $100 Mac Mini. Repairing the display will be pricy if you work though Apple Service, but if you are good with your hands you can get parts from PowerBookMedic.com or use their mail-in repair service.
There are not any third party MageSafe Power Adapters, you will have to get an Apple branded unit.
Hope this helps,
When I bought my iMac (love it!) from PowerMax I also bought MobileMe for $99. It was recommended by my daughter, but she didn’t realize that I don’t use an iPhone or iPod touch. I only do email from my computer.
Is it possible to return it for a refund? I never activated it.
I know that AppleCare can be returned to Apple for a prorated price based on the time that has been used. I imagine that Apple may also offer the same return option for unused MobileMe. I have never called in to test this so I can not say for sure. Box copies of MobileMe can be used by anyone and the code inside does not expire so if your daughter wants to use it she can use it to extend her MobileMe account.
I have been using a version of MobileMe since it was first introduced almost a decade ago. It is not a service just for iPhone or iPod users. You can publish your own webpage, post your photos online in one click from your computer, and allow access to your mail/calendars/address book when away from your computer.
Before you decide what to do, consider signing up for the free MobileMe trail and try to use all the services it offers. Then you can make a solid discussion of what you would like to do with the MobileMe you bought.
Hope this helps,
We have a new MacBook Pro set up with a Time Capsule and an 5 year old iMac G4 and are wondering if the G4 will accept an Airport Extreme card or Airport card. We’d like to use the old IMac wirelessly if possible.
Thank you in advance,
Yes, the G4 iMacs can take an Airport card. Depending on the generation you can get an 802.11B card or an 802.11B/G card.
• If you have a 700 MHz or 800MHz processor you need a FastMac APP-0968 Wireless AirPort 802.11b Card.
• If you have a 1GHz to 1.25GHz processor you can get an Apple M8881LL/A AirPort Extreme Card.
It will install under the metal plate on the bottom of the iMac and is easy to do, just make sure to attache the built-in antenna cable after you slide it in the slot.
How do you do screenprint on a MacBook?
There are two common ways of capturing your screen. First you can use the keyboard shortcuts bellow
• Shift-Command-3 = Capture the screen to a file
• Shift-Control-Command-3 = Capture the screen to the Clipboard
• Shift-Command-4 = Capture a selection to a file
• Shift-Control-Command-4 = Capture a selection to the Clipboard
Be sure to check out Apple’s full list of Mac OS X keyboard shortcuts.
The other way to capture your screen is with the Grab utility in your Applications/Utilities folder. This application is included with every Mac and it gives you more options when trying to get exactly the screen image you want than you have with the keyboard shortcuts.
Hope that helps,
Does running a second monitor on the new 27 inch iMacs eat any CPU cycles or is it all on the graphics card?
It is my understanding that the only appreciable impact of running a second display on a 27″ iMac is with the video cards GPU and VRAM. The VRAM will be split between the internal display and the external display.
The GPU will have to work almost twice as fast to redraw the screen. Your processor will be mostly unaffected except for the added overhead of managing that much more desktop space.
I have an iMac G5 running 10.5 and I’m just wondering if I can partition my hard drive and install 10.4 and run OS 9 on the same hard drive for games that requires OS classic 9
You can run the older 10.4 Mac OS on a partition of the drive if that computer originally was capable of running that OS. So if you have version of 10.4 that came with that iMac G5, you can install that on a partition or external hard drive. Then you just need to install Classic OS 9 support and you should be set.
I do this on a few test systems here, and have no problem bouncing from 10.4 to 10.5. Just use the Startup Disk System Preference to change which partition you want the Mac to boot from and restart.
Hope that helps,
My aging Mac G5 Dual 2.7 Ghz can no longer use the latest Mac OS, and I am a heavy Photoshop user, who cannot even update to the newest Elements, without an Intel processor.
Should I get one of the (also aging) Mac Pro’s, or wait until a new Mac Pro is released by Apple?
Any idea when that might be? It has been significantly over a year now since that model was updated.
Mac Pros are due for an update but Apple has been slowing down Mac development on the Pro side. We will often get indications of a future update via long delivery times or short supply in the channel. We have not see any of those signs of change with the Mac Pro. If you need a Mac Pro in the next 60 days, I would get the one you want now but that is just a educated guess.
Hope that helps
I have an Athlon XP1700+ based PC, Elite ECS K7S5A PRO motherboard, currently running Win98SE. I now find our niece is getting a MacBook through her high school, and since I am about the only relative she has that is somewhat computer fluent, I would like to find a way to, say, dual-boot between 98 and some version of MacOS that will run on the same machine…any ideas? I haven’t been able to find a definitive answer anywhere…
New hardware is just too expensive…
Getting a Dual boot system out of that hardware will not be possible. The Mac OS needs to run on Apple hardware or the brave can attempt to build a “Hackintosh” but you need to have a system with a compatible Intel based processor.
Even If you were to buy a Mac to run the Mac OS and Windows on the same system, you would have to run Windows XP SP2 or higher alongside the Mac OS. Hope that helps answer your question, new hardware and Windows software is the only way to dual boot.
Somehow I managed to remove (delete?) my Home folder (icon) from the Dock. The Home Icon still appears in my various windows and sidebars. Tried dragging the icon from several places to the Dock, but could not get it to reappear in the Dock. Selected the Home icon and went to the pull down menu under File and clicked on Get Info. From that window dragged the image of the Home icon to the Dock. That was successful, except that the icon appearing in the Dock is a FOLDER, not the House icon. Clicking on the folder does give me all the contents of the Home folder,
How can I get the House icon back?
I am the administrator. This problem is on an iMac running OSX 10.6.3.
Thank you for any help/suggestions,
I just tried this now, but I will be honest I never knew the icon for the home folder would appear as the house icon if you had it in the dock. I have never placed the home folder there but it works for me. I opened up my hard drive in the finder and went to the Users folder. Then I dragged the Home folder icon to the Dock. After it is on the Dock, you right click on it, or [control] click on it, and select the Folder option under the “Display As” section. It then will display the House icon
Hope that works for you and I think I may keep it on my Dock too.
The Superdrive on my first gen MacBook died and I am looking to replace it. Unfortunately I’m having trouble finding the exact model number I will need. Can you help?
I often recommend the MCE replacement drives, like this MCE Internal 8x SuperDrive Upgrade for MacBook and MacBook Pro 15-inch.
Hope this helps
How big a hard drive will work with my PowerMac G4 Quicksilver?
My dad had a hard drive over 100 GB that did not work in his PC a few years ago, so I know that just because a hard drive fits does not mean it is compatible. I currently have an 80 GB drive.
If you have a 733, 867 or Dual 800 MHz processor than you have the original Quicksilver. If you have a 800, 933 MHz, or Dual 1GHz processor you have the 2002 Quicksilver and can use larger hard drives.
Hope this helps.
How do I back up iWork, iLife and Microsoft Office?
I have a computer with iWork, iLife, and Office 2004 (all old versions on Tiger). I will soon either reformat my hard drive or get a new one. How do I make sure that I have all the license files, since it’s been a while and I don’t have license keys any more.
The iLife applications do not have a registration or activation key. Microsoft Office applications store a copy of the activation key in the supporting files so you can get both of those file groups by copying the Office folder and the iLife applications from the Applications Folder. You will also need to Copy iWork applications but you need one aditional file for that to work. Copy this file to your backup media (Macintosh HD/Library/Preferences/com.apple.iWork06.plist ) and then move it back to your drive after the reinstall.
The best way to get this done would be to buy a new hard drive and then use Apple’s Migration Assistant to grab all you applications and files from the old hard drive. Migration Assistant is part of OS X 10.4 or higher.
Hope this helps
Jacob I have an old G5 with dead processors and which is basically just a parts machine. Will the USB card (5 plugs) from this old G5 fit and work in the Mac Pro I recently bought from you guys?
Most likely it will not fit. Many of the G5 PowerMac systems had PCI or PCI-X slots and your Mac Pro will have PCI Express slots. Some of the very last generation of G5 used PCI Express, so if you had that model it may work. The PCI expansion cards are keyed so they will only fit in compatible slots, so you can check to see if it fits. Just be carful to not force the card in if it does not fit exactly.
Hope that helps
I’m using a 1st Gen Macbook Air and I cracked it’s left hinge the other day, although everything has been running fine.
Today, however, a red glare sort of thing, maybe a hue (I’m not good with the lingo) has appeared on my display and when I move my screen up or down, it goes away momentarily, but if I take my hand away, it goes back to the red tint. I was wondering if you think that the Macbook Air is just completely cooked (I’ve owned it for 2 years), OR, if I take it into the Apple Store (not sure about my warranty), will they be able to do something about it?
Apple laptops run display cabling through the hinges so hinge damage will quickly start to affect the display cables.
There is probably a short in the display cable from its contact with the sharp edges on the crack. You should take it into the Apple or Mac Store for support and to get a repair quote. It will likely require a new display housing with the display, it will not be cheap if it is not covered by AppleCare.
Hope this helps sorry tot hear about the problems.
I have a Powerbook G4 I am trying to connect to the TV so that I can view and hear any laptop content on the screen. In case you need to know this, the TV is an older CRT TV, Toshiba model CZ36V61.
I did what the tech support person at Apple said. I got a DVI to Video adapter, then connected the yellow RCA cable from the video adapter to the TV yellow RCA port. I then used a Belkin Y adapter, with one end in the headphone jack of my laptop and the two red and white audio RCA cables into the red and white RCA ports on the TV. No picture, no sound. I tried changing through the various TV inputs.
I searched online and found many suggestions to go the the Displays part of System Preferences, and click “Detect Displays,” but when I did this, nothing happened. Apparently the Powerbook is not detecting the TV at all. I also found suggestions to lower the monitor’s resolution, to allow it to show on the older CRT TV. This also did not work.
Any thoughts? I appreciate any input you have. Thanks.
Apple’s advice is correct, you should have an equipment list which includes a DVI to Video Adapter , 6ft Audio Cable Mini Phone 3.5mm Male/ 2x Rca Male , and a Tripp Lite Composite Video Gold Cable.
Have you tried playing music from your laptop and then switching input sources on the TV? When you hear the music, you should then be at the proper input source on the TV. After you have the TV on the proper source, try detecting displays again. That should work, if it does not you may want to take the computer an cables over to a friends house and test on their TV to see if the issue is the TV or cable.
Hope that helps,
I am looking to purchase a new computer and I have been interested in the apple products. I have been a PC user forever but I’ve been told I need to check out thr mac world. My first concern is
1. I use my computer to multitask- with the web, my music, programs, typing papers etc my poor PC is trying its best to keep up. As a teacher now I had been told that Mac excels in this department with GarageBand and other music programs to record and write so I would want that.
My second concern is:
2. Desktop vs laptop- I have been looking at the Mac mini, the MacBook, the MacBook Pro and the iMac but I’m not sure what would be the best buy for me along with what I need it to do. What would you suggest?
For a first time Mac buyer, I would recommend a new MacBook. It will come with all the iLife applications, one of which is GarageBand, and it will have a nationwide warranty. A portable Mac will let you take your computer with you where you need it. This is especially helpful if you need to have someone show you how to do something. When you need help it is easier to go to the person for help opposed to trying to lure them to your home.
Also consider adding AppleCare for your MacBook for the three years of phone support as well as extras hardware support.
Hope this helps and welcome to the Mac world,
I was looking the other day at the latest Mac mini on your site and have some questions. I am retiring a mirror door G4 soon and think the mini 239LL might tide me over for a while.
Can I use my existing Apple Cinema Display 20″ 1680×1050?
I have written 3 books using Adobe CS2. Will I have to upgrade the software to use on the Intel chip set? Other known software issues?
Are there any other surprises?
I think other than that you should be set to make the switch and use the new Adobe CS Software but you should check the graphics card requirements for the applications you are planing on using. Some features may not work perfectly on the Integrated Graphics cards used in the Mac Mini.
My brand new Nehalem, which has been running fine since I got it, will not power on – no response to the power button. I tried the SMC reset twice but no luck … Is there anything else I can do?
With the unit off, try holding in the power button for a long time until you hear Tone from the speakers. Release the power button and after a short time it should chime and boot. If that fails, than your Mac Pro could have a power problem. For diagnostic sake move it to a new outlet and directly connect the computer to the wall, bypassing any power strips. If it still will not work, then it will need to be looked at by an Apple Authorized service center.
Hope this helps, let me know,
I have a 2006-era MacBook Pro, on which many of the keys on the built-in keyboard have never worked, such as volume, mute, etc. all of a sudden, my option key no longer works to toggle thru startup disks…any solutions? I had the keyboard replaced along with the logic board at its one year birthday, but the keys continued to not function properly…no pun intended!
I would assume it is not a hardware issue because of the replacement of the keyboard and most times all buttons stop working with hardware failure. It could be a settings issue that is set to ignore special function values by default. In the Macbook Pro System Preferences, Select the “Keyboard” option. Under the Keyboard Tab look to see if there is a checkmark in the checkbox for “Use all F1, F2 etc. keys as standard function keys.” Remove the Checkmark if it is in that checkbox.
In that same Preference window is a [Modifier Keys..] button, click on that button. Then check to make sure that your [Option] key was not remapped to another function.
Hope this helps,
Looking to add more hard drive capacity to my 2006 Mac Pro. I’ve heard I might be limited to 500GB in each bay for a total of 2 TBs. Is that true or is more possible? Also, any brand recommendations would be appreciated. Currently it runs off the base 250GB SATA.
There is no drive size limit for SATA based Macs, like yours. You should be fine going up to 2TB in each drive bay. Take a look at our internal hard drives, as we carry both Western Digital & MCE. These brands will certainly fit the bill for your storage needs.
Will your Monster 6ft Cable – Mini to Optical Toslink for Airport Express/G5 iMac will work for my installation? I want to purchase a new Airport Express base station to stream music from iTunes to my stereo receiver. I have an optical input on the back of my receiver, and just want to make sure this is the correct cable. I plan on purchasing both from you.
Yes. If you want to connect iTunes to your stereo receiver the Mini to Optical Toslink cable will connect an Airport Express or Intel Mac laptop to a Toslink port on a stereo system so you can stream music wirelessly.
Have fun with it!
I’m shopping for a back-up device for my iMac Core Duo. I understand the faster transfer speeds of firewire and would prefer this type.
The size of my backup is really small; Sibelius music notation files and corresponding PDF files for the instruments. In the last 9 months, I’ve only generated 3.74 GB of material, so a smaller (250GB or even 500GB) is perfect. I don’t want to pay too much for this and have been checking various drives on Amazon, etc.
They all seem to have their pros and cons; LaCie, Western Digital, Seagate, Vebatim, etc. Do you have one you’d recommend?
You’ve helped me in the past, and I hope you can do it again. Thanks in advance…
In general I will just end up getting a basic 1TB Lacie drive for my backup drives. I have one of these set as a TimeMachine Backup drive and another for making whole system clones of my computer that I keep off site.
But if you just want to backup small Data files that will total under 8GB per year, look at a LaCie USB itsakey drive.
This will store a years worth of your data and you can easily take it with you.
I am currently using a beefed up G4 at home and at work. When I got it it was the previous years top of the line. I’ve since upgraded the processor and added RAM, new HD’s and Optical drives on both my home machine and work. I use Photoshop, Dreamweaver, Flash for work, I use Bryce, Lightwave, Garageband and all of the work applications at home.
Would a Mac mini be enough muscle to replace the G4? Also could I run the Star Trek online game in boot camp or one of the other emulators?
The only drawback for you will be working with software that was designed to run on a PowerPC processor, it will have to be run in a special environment on your computer called Rossetta. Everything should work, but just may not be running at its full potential speed.
I have a Powerbook G3 that still works – I presume. I have since had a Powerbook G4 and am now on a Macbook pro.
Is a non-Intel machine still useable for email, browsing and simple writing? Other than slow Ethernet, what issues might come up for using a machine like this?
For the task of writing, email or documents, the older Macs are still a decent choice. It does not take increasing processor power to record key strokes as text.
The Web browsing aspect though is a different matter. Older computer hardware just is not capable of running modern web browsers and Internet development is now back in hyperdrive, pushing the limits of what you can do on the web. Websites that worked on your browser yesterday may be rewritten for modern browsers tomorrow and older computers will be left out.
If the exciting new parts of the internet are were you want to go, than older computers are going to have a hard time. FaceBook, Youtube, and the like, will want a better computer to display their content. For that you need some processing power, like you have with your Macbook Pro.
I have a Power Mac PC G5 but 10.3.9 and I need an upgrade to 10.5.
It would be nice to find a copy of Leopard but no one has them or it costs an arm and a leg. I love my Mac and just want to upgrade but others have told me to just buy a Mac Mini and have everything I need without purchasing the upgraded software for my machine. What say ye Jacob? What is a person to do?
When 10.6 was released without Power PC Mac support I was recommending that everyone grab 10.5 before it was gone for good. At this point your observation about 10.5 Leopard is correct and the advice to get a Mac Mini is probably good advice.
I have to say that I love may Mac Mini and think it is a good choice for most users looking for a desktop system. We regularly have used Intel Mac minis in stock is you’re interested in keeping costs down.
The software update runs each day on my iMac 3.06GHz, 21.5in computer. The problem is that everyday it shows the following update available:
HP Printer Drivers Update 2.3 4.8 MB.
I have obviously updated these drivers, but still continue to get the notification. Why is this happening and what can be done to stop the unnecessary repeat notifications?
The simple solution is to select the update listed and choose ignore update from the “Update” menu. Assuming your drivers are updated and working for you then it should not cause any problems to skip the update. This sometimes can happen when you download drivers from the manufactures site (in this case HP) and Apple tries to overwrite them with different versions that are not newer or older, just different software builds. This deference prevents the update from fully installing and does not record the newer version in Software Updates records.
I hope skipping it works for you.
I’m planning on purchasing a new computer to replace my 13 year old G4. I primarily use this G4 for sending lots of emails, sometimes with pix attached.
Is there an Apple notebook I should consider? or do I need the full size MacBook Pro? Any help you can offer would be appreciated. I run a small business and my business is all conducted by email.
I would have to say that the best value Mac laptop is the white polycarbonate MacBook. It is a great system, and the latest version now has a 2.4GHz Intel Core 2 Duo processor. For a little more you get a Aluminum finish and more RAM in the 13″ MacBook Pro.
These machines are fairly similar and should serve you well for another ten years. Hope this helps.
My Macbook Pro’s (15″ inch; 2.4ghz, 2008) left fan was making a lot of noise. I am out of warranty, so I opened the laptop to see what was wrong. The fan died and has lost all the blades (computer is still taken apart right now).
Until I buy a new fan, can I disconnect the cable that powers the fan and run my computer without it – does my MacBook Pro need a fan or will that prevent the Macbook Pro from powering on or prevent anything else in the computer from running correctly? I understand it will heat up on that side, but I wouldn’t mind that if it were the only thing that would happen since it doesn’t have the blades anyways, and its only making noise right now.
Thank you for your help.
The MacBook Pro will boot up without the fan connected. The temperature sensors on your system will keep an eye on the temp and shut you down if it gets dangerous for the components. Just save often and keep an eye on the heat. If you let the heat rise to much it may shorten the life of your MacBook Pro Battery and hard drive, not to mention the remaining fan will spin full speed to compensate.
I am trying to connect a 23-inch Apple Clear Acrylic Cinema HD Display to my G4 Cube. I suspect that I need to upgrade the graphics card. The Display’s power light illuminates, but the Display fails to illuminate at all. Since the G4 Cube has worked fine with my 17-inch Clear Acrylic Studio Display, I believe the graphics card is working, but incapable of supporting the 23-inch HD Display. Please advise what options PowerMax has available to resolve this issue, if it can be resolved.
Please be advised that both my 17-inch Studio Display and 23-inch Cinema HD Display both utilize the hard-wired Apple Display Connector (ADC) and the sole cable and connector for video and other services.
That display needs an ADC connection from a card with 32MB of Video RAM. It is likely that your video card is underpowered for that display. Replacement parts are hard to find, we do not have any, but you may be able to find a card from a high end Cube for sale online.
Hope that helps
Is there any way of fixing an original apple power supply?
Yesterday my 17″ MBP crashed out of the blue. I have to add, a few days before the battery went dead. Perfect timing! To be sure it wasn’t a internal hardware issue I used the power supply of a 15″ MacBook Pro and everything was fine. So instead of buying a new battery and a power supply maybe I can save some money by DIY.
Do you have any advise for me?
All the best,
I am sure that there is a way to fix an MacBook Pro power supply but I would not advise it.
I am the same type of person you seem to be. I will bust out a soldering iron instead of my wallet most times. Occasionally though, I just do not want to risk potential damage from a DIY project. For example when maintaining my car, I will not work on my own tires or breaks. This is because I value professional and inspected work when it comes to keeping me on the road, and stopping when I need to.
Just like tires, the computer’s Power Supply is where the “Rubber Meets the Road.” It is where the outside world connects to your computer and, just like a bad break job, errors in the repair can be costly. In general you will probably be able to make the repair and get a working power supply, but it is possible that a safety device will not get fixed and a power spike could damage your equipment.
In this case I would encourage you to buy a suitable replacement. To be honest I would not know how to advice you, as I have never attempted that repair before.
Hope this helps.
I am having problem putting music on my iPod. it keeps saying that here is an unknowen error -69 any chance you could tell me what to do ??
In general the first step in troubleshooting an iPod problem is to reformat the iPod and take it back to the original factory config. Make sure you have backed up your settings in iTunes first and that you still have all the songs and applications in your iTunes library.
To format your iPod, connect it to your computer and select it in the iTunes Device list. Then under the Summary tab select the Restore button and confirm that you are going to delete all data on the iPod. It will download the latest software for your iPod and then install it, it may take some time. When it is done, you can try restoring your setup from the last backup you made.
However before you go to this extreme, you may just have some file problem crashing the transfer process. If the problem is just seen during the iPod sync process you will need to remove the problem file from your iTunes library. This problem can be caused by a corrupt MP3 file or some other issue with the song files. Here is an Apple article on how to locate the offending iPod files and remove them.
Hope this helps,
I have a G5 Power Mac 2.7 system in the basement. Sometimes it sees my Airport express from upstairs … sometimes doesn’t. Can I make my G5 tower wireless?
All, but the last model, need a Power Mac G5 wireless antenna connected to the back of the case.
You need to make sure that G5 antenna is connected to the Airport port on the back of the unit. It can be put into the Bluetooth port by accident, or it sometimes is missing altogether. Both problems will cause poor wireless performance. If you plan on making the G5 wireless – and have the “T” antenna installed correctly – you can try to adjust the angle of the “T” so that it get the best signal quality. Try using the Kismac OS X wireless tool to get a more detailed view of your wireless signal strength.
Hope this helps – good luck making the G5 wireless!
I’ve seen much on the web that complains about setting up an Apple Time Capsule. What is your opinion? Does it deliver? Is it a good option for getting my wife (who deals with plenty of large image files) backed up and connected to extra disc space?
I think the Apple Time Capsule is a good solution for people who are using laptops and stay wireless 80% of the time.
The largest issue with backing up is remembering to do so. Time Machine makes backup easy and automatic. However, a small subset of people who never leave a computer at the desk long enough to backup to a USB drive were not being protected by Time Machine. Those people need the Time Capsule so that they too can take advantage of Time Machine’s automatic backup.
If you have a desktop, or leave your laptop connected to external devices on a desk for a few hours a day, you would be best served by using a directly connected external USB hard drive for your backups. The Airport Extreme base station will allow you to connect an external USB drive for network file storage. That drive will be accessible from the network or you can always connect it directly to a Mac and retrieve the data if one day your Airport fails. If the drive in your Apple Time Capsule fails it’s harder to get access to.
Hope that helps you make a decision,
My girlfriend and I awoke in the night to the sound of the table with my new iMac 27 inch on collapsing, the Mac landed face-down on the floor.
The glass screen has shattered and the metal casing has warped in a couple of places. Somehow it took the wireless keyboard with it, which is now bent in the middle.
After about an hour of panicking I thought, hmm, I wonder if it still works, so plugged it back in and it sprang to life. The display is perfect, I can access all my files, airport, speakers, cd drive…all good. The keyboard has bitten the dust though, so I’m using my old PC one.
Basically what I want to know is, can the glass be replaced? Would I be without it for a long time, and the big question, is it going to cost a lot to fix?
Thanks very much for your help,
The glass can be replaced easily, it is held on with magnets. However, there could be a problem if the bend in the case prevents the replacement of the glass. If the glass can not lay flat on the case, it may cause it to crack or let dust in. The glass for a 27 inch iMac should be $120-200 to replace but again the bent case is the X factor.
Bring it into a service shop for a better estimate of the work needed to get the glass replaced.
Hope this helps
I read on the everymac.com site that you guys sell a VESA compliant 21.5″ iMac. Can you tell me what that looks like? Ideally I would like to mount a 21.5″ iMac on a VESA mount without the supplied stand. Is this possible?
If you must do this with the smaller screen iMacs, then you have to use a similar Vesa adapter but the stand will remain attached to the iMac. Pictures are available at the Vesa website with addition product information. They appear to have a pretty broad array of iMac mounts, so there is more than likely something that will fit your need.
Hope this helps
The hard drive for my 17″ G5 iMac recently failed. Though I’d like to upgrade, at the moment I don’t think I can afford to do that. Can you recommend an internal hard drive to have installed in the G5 iMac?
Any SATA 3.5″ internal desktop hard drive will work fine. There is often a thermal sensor on the side of the old drive that will need to be pealed off and moved to the new drive.
You may also want to consider just getting an external FireWire base drive and use that to boot your Mac until you decide to upgrade. The Mac OS will run well off of an external drive, like this LaCie d2 Quadra.
If you’d like to replace that G5 iMac hard drive yourself, I’ve included Apple’s instructions below:
Hard Drive,17-inch Replacement Instructions
Use the screwdriver provided, or a Phillips #2 screwdriver, preferably with a magnetized tip Flat-blade screwdriver Screw tray or something equivalent to hold the screws.
Important Things to Know
- All customer removable screws are brass colored. Do not remove screws unless they are brass colored, or you will void your warranty.
- A magnetized “L”-shaped Phillips screwdriver is included with the replacement part.
- Ground yourself when working on the computer. The procedure will show you how to ground yourself.
- Do not pull on individual wires when disconnecting a part; pull on the connector.
- Keep drinks and other liquids away from the area you are working on the iMac.
- A screw chart is attached at the end of this document. Use the chart to identify screw type and screw locations.
Opening the Computer
- Note: These instructions cover the iMac G5 (17-inch) models. The models may look slightly different from one shown in the illustration; however, the following procedure applies to both models.
- Turn your computer off by choosing Shut down from the Apple (K) menu. Disconnect all cables, and unplug the power cord from your computer.
- Place a soft, clean towel or cloth on the desk or surface. Hold the sides of the computer and slowly lay the computer face down as shown.
- Locate the three silver case screws circled below. You may have to lift the stand to locate the middle case screw. Note: These screws are captive; they are part of the display/bezel assembly and cannot be removed.
- Using the tool provided, or a Phillips #2 screwdriver, loosen the three captive screws. Turn the screws to the left until they stop turning. Don’t force the screws once they stop turning.
- Holding the back cover by the metal stand, tilt the cover up and lift it off the computer. Set the back cover aside.
Removing the Hard Drive
- To access the hard drive you must first remove other service modules. This procedure will show you how to remove and replace these modules. Note: As you remove each module, set it aside, along with the screws for that module.
- Ground yourself. Touch the metal surface (as shown below) on the inside of the computer to discharge any static electricity.
- Locate the fan cover near the top of the computer.
- Using the tool provided, or a Phillips #2 screwdriver, remove the two fan cover screws. Lift the fan cover off the computer and set the fan cover aside.
- Move the black video cable (located to the left of the hard drive) out of the way to access a hard drive screw.
- Remove the three hard drive screws. Set the screws aside.
- Carefully lift the hard drive up, about one inch. Disconnect the three cables from the hard drive. Note: Leave the cables attached to the logic board.
- Lift the hard drive out of the computer. Important: Return the hard drive to Apple in the packaging provided.
Warning: Always discharge static electricity before you touch any parts or install any components inside the computer. To avoid generating static electricity, do not walk around the room until you have finished installing the part and closed the computer.
Installing the Replacement Hard Drive
- Remove the replacement hard drive from its packaging. Connect the three cables (circled) to the hard drive.
- Lower the hard drive into place and replace the three screws.
- Tuck the black video cable into the area indicated by the arrows.
- Press the video cable into the notch on the midplane chassis.
- Replace the two fan cover screws. The larger screw attaches on the left. Note: Make sure the pull tab is sticking up as shown.
Closing the Computer
- Replace the cover so that the slots on the top edge of the back cover mate with the tabs on the display housing.
- Lower and press the cover into place until it fits snugly on the computer.
- Tighten the three captive case screws by turning them to the right. Don’t overtighten the screws.
- Reconnect the power cord while the computer is face down and then position the computer in the upright position. Proceed to the next topic, “Installing Software That Came With Your Computer.”
Reinstalling the Software That Came with Your Computer
Use the software install discs that came with your computer to install Mac OS X, the applications that came with your computer, and to install Mac OS 9.
Installing Mac OS X and Applications
To install Mac OS X and the applications that came with your computer, follow these steps:
- Back up your essential files, if possible.
- Insert the Mac OS X Install Disc 1 that came with your computer.
- Double-click “Install Mac OS X and Bundled Software.”
- Follow the onscreen instructions.
- After selecting the destination disk for installation, continue following the onscreen instructions.Your computer may restart and ask you to insert the next Mac OS X Install disc 2.
Note: If you want to restore Mac OS X on your computer to the original factory settings, click Options in the “Select a Destination” pane of the Installer, and then select “Erase and Install”.
To install just the applications that came with your computer, follow the steps below. Your computer must have Mac OS X already installed.
- Back up your essential files, if possible
- Insert the Mac OS X Install disc 1 that came with your computer.
- Double-click “Install Bundled Software Only.”
- Follow the onscreen instructions.
- After selecting the destination disk for installation, continue following the onscreen instructions.Your computer may restart and ask you to insert the next Mac OS X Install disc 2.
Note: To install iCal, iChat AV, iMovie, iPhoto, iSync, iTunes, and Safari, follow the “Installing Mac OS X and Applications” instructions above.
Installing Mac OS 9
If you want to use Mac OS 9 applications with your computer, use the “Additional Software & Apple Hardware Test” disc to install Mac OS 9.
Follow these steps to install Mac OS 9:
- Back up your essential files, if possible.
- Insert the “Additional Software & Apple Hardware Test” disc.
- Double-click “Install Additional Software.”
- Follow the onscreen instructions.
- After selecting the destination disk for installation, continue following the onscreen instructions.
Hope that helps!
I recently bought a G4 MDD 1GHz dual processor Power Mac. The problem I’m having is with the optical drive. The Apple CD burner that it came with didn’t show up on the desktop when I inserted a disk. I thought I got a bad CD burner, so I replaced it with my old Pioneer 110D DVD burner, one I knew worked perfectly. It also does not seem to be able to read disks.
When I start up DVD player it says that there was no DVD player found. An audio disk inserted does not show up on iTunes, nor the desktop. Data CD’s don’t show up. Yet, when I check through system profiler, it says that the burner is there. When a disk is in the drive, it shows in system profiler how many MBs are used on the disk. But when I go to disk burning on the system profiler, they report I have no burners on the computer.
Any ideas what’s going on? I suppose I could buy an external drive, but I’m vexed and really want to understand what’s happening. Thanks.
What version of the Mac OS are you running on this system? Perhaps you need to run an update to support those drives. Also, If your System is a Mirrored Drive Door G4 tower, your optical drives have to be set with the Jumper pin to Cable Select. In the MDD G4 you also need to have the Super Drive on the topmost drive slot and Combo drives (or lesser optical drive) bellow the Super drive.
If that does not help, could you send me the serial number and OS version so I can dig deeper into the issue.
Also, if you want to replace that G4 optical drive, I’ve included Apple’s guidelines on how to do accomplish that:
Replacing G4 optical drive involves five simple steps:
- Turn off the G4 computer.
- Open the computer.
- Remove the installed CD/DVD drive.
- Install the replacement CD/DVD drive.
- Close the computer.
All you’ll need to replace the G4 optical drive is a #2 Phillips screwdriver.
A Note About Electrostatic Discharge (ESD)
Static electricity can build up on your body as you walk around – you’ve probably experienced the shocking sensation after dragging your feet along the carpet in your home. An electrostatic discharge occurs when you touch an object generate a small electrical spark. ESD can damage to the internal components of your computer, so avoid walking around while replacing the optical drive in your G4.
Opening the G4 Computer
Warning: Always turn off your computer before opening it to avoid damaging internal components.
- Place your computer on a clean, flat surface.
- If your G4 has not shut down, but is in sleep mode, press the power button on the front of the computer to wake it.
- Shut down your computer by opening the Special menu and choosing Shut Down. Then wait five minutes for the computer’s internal components to cool down.
- Remove any security cables you may have installed in the G4′s lockable cover latch.
- Except the power cord, remove all other cables from the computer.
- On the back of the computer, touch the metal PCI access covers . Important: To avoid electrostatic discharge, before you touch any parts or install any components inside the computer – always ground yourself by touching the port access covers. From this point forward – to avoid static electricity building back up in your body – do not walk around the room until you have completed your installation and closed the computer. No dragging your feet around the house!
- Unplug the power cord.
- Carefully lift the latch on the right side access panel (these can break off)
- Gently lower the access panel onto a clean towel or cloth until it lies flat.
Warning: Close the side access panel and shut down the computer if you see any lights glowing on the main logic board. Lights indicate the computer has not been shut down.
Removing the Installed CD/DVD Drive
- Press the clips behind the drive faceplate assembly, rotate the assembly forward until the clips are free of the front panel, and carefully continue rotating the assembly forward to remove the faceplate.
- Remove the two screws that hold the drive carrier in place and push the carrier forward far enough that you can reach the cables behind it. Note: You will feel some resistance as you push on the carrier.
- Disconnect the power and ribbon cables from the back of the CD/DVD drive.
- If a Zip drive is installed, disconnect the ribbon and power cables from the back of the Zip drive.
- Slide the drive carrier assembly the rest of the way out of the computer.
- Remove the shield from the back of the CD/DVD drive.
- Remove the four screws that mount the CD/DVD drive to the carrier and remove the drive from the carrier.
Installing the Replacement CD/DVD Drive
- Position the drive in the upper bay of the drive carrier, lifting the back of the drive slightly so that it is flush against the carrier. Insert the screws from the old drive through the holes in the carrier and tighten to secure the drive to the carrier.
- Replace the shield on the back of the replacement CD/DVD drive.
- Partially insert the drive carrier into the computer. Leave room behind the assembly so you can reach the connectors.
- Connect the cables to the Zip drive and CD/DVD drive:
- Connect the middle connector on the power cord bundle to the Zip drive.
- Connect the middle connector on the ribbon cable to the Zip drive.
- Connect the end of the power cord bundle to the CD/DVD drive.
- Connect the end of the ribbon cable to the CD/DVD drive.
- Push the drive carrier the rest of the way into the computer.
- Reinsert the two carrier mounting screws you removed earlier.
- Replace the faceplate assembly by aligning its left edge on the computer case, reinserting the clips into their slots on the right side, and pressing the plate until it snaps into place.
Closing the Computer
- Raise the side access panel, lift the latch, and press the panel against the case until it snaps securely into place.
- Reconnect all cables and restart your computer. Warning: Never turn on your computer unless all of its internal and external parts are in place and it is closed. Operating the computer when it is open or missing parts can damage your computer or cause injury.
I’m a graphic designer and am still happy with my G5 tower (yes, G5). I don’t upgrade often because I like to underconsume as much as possible and upgrade
only when necessary.
However, I’m facing an upgrade soon and would like to have a laptop for some uses but don’t want to spend the money on both a new desktop as well as a laptop.
Are there drawbacks to having a laptop vs desktop as your sole computer? What are some laptop vs desktop pros and cons? What things would I need to consider if I were to go that route? I would keep my 21″ monitor for my main display.
I think if you look at the 15″ or 17″ MacBook Pro you can safely replace a desktop system with an Apple laptop. The dedicated video RAM and bigger GPU in those models makes it a viable desktop replacement. I personally use the 15″ MacBook Pro with an external display for my work machine and have never looked back.
Here is the latest update on what I have done. I have corrected a database problem – so I get no more pop up messages at all. But now I had a problem installing Microsoft office 2008 for Mac. Everything installed – but when I add my serial number it just blinks and does not move further to install everything – I’ve tried everything and have tried with all the applications. I do NOT get a message saying that the serial number is invalid, the continue button is blue, indicating that everything is cool, but I cannot move forward. What is happening? This is insane. It happened when I did all the updates to MS Office 2008 – 3 updates I think – after that was completed and I needed to re-enter my serial number, it does not move forward. It just keeps blinking blue.
Jacob, I really need help with this. I have a deadline project due and I have to have all the Office products to do it. I certainly cannot afford to go purchase it again – please help me. I have seen on the Internet many people have had this problem, but I have seen no solutions.
Can you help me? Will you help me?
Sincerely, and in desperation (I know that sounds dramatic, but it’s true),
I assume that you have removed the old key already per the regular instructions from Microsoft:
• In the Finder, select /Applications/Microsoft Office 2008/Office/OfficePID.plist, and then on the File menu, click Move to Trash.
• Select /Users/username/Library/Preferences/Microsoft/Office 2008/Microsoft Office 2008 settings.plist, and then on the File menu, click Move to Trash.
• On the Apple menu, click Restart.
• After your computer restarts, open any Office 2008 application. The Office Setup Assistant opens.
• Accept the software license agreement, and then enter your valid product key.
If this does not resolve it you probably will need to contact Microsoft to resolve this Product Registration issue.
If email is your primary use of Office, you can use the Apple Mail application that came with the Mac OS to Receive and Send email. I use Mail instead of Entourage and have had better luck. You may also want to look at the free Google Doc Apps to do some of the Office work that you had done with the Microsoft Products, until you get them back to a working condition.
Good luck – hope that helps,
I recently updated my 2009 Mac Pro quad-core to 10.6.3 and now my second monitor is not visible. It is not even being detected in displays in System Preferences or in More Info in About this Mac. Googling the issue seems to suggest that this is a known issue with 10.6.3.
How can I go back to 10.6.2?
The easiest way to get your Mac Pro back to an older version of the OS is to do an Archive and Install of the Mac OS. Mac OS 10.6 introduced a simplified way of doing this. Now when you chose a basic install of 10.6 on a newer version of the same OS, it will simply downgrade you without asking to to chose Archive and Install.
Before you go that route, you may want to Zap your PRAM by holding down [command] + [option] + [P] and [R] keys on start up. Let the System chime three times before letting go of those keys. You may also want to shutdown the System and then hold in the Power Button until you hear a long tone sound. The computer will restart. If all that fails, Downgrade to 10.6 from your install DVD and then use the 10.6.2 combo updater.